keskiviikko 31. elokuuta 2022

PictureCorrect.com: Simple Tips for Better Portraits

Whether you’re armed with an expensive SLR or just a smart phone camera, there is an art to taking good pictures of people. With some thought and some practice you’ll be the go-to person in your group for taking photos. Here’s a collection of some simple but effective tips for improving your portraits.

close portrait

Photo captured by shahin khalaji; ISO 64, f/5.0, 1/160s.

Get Closer

A common problem is standing too far back or not zooming in enough. Especially for head shots, get close so there’s less background to distract from the subject. Same with group photos. Instead of lining people up and having to move back, try to get people in rows.

Better Composition

A head in the middle of the photo is not very interesting; compose your shot so the subject’s head is in the upper two-thirds of the frame or a bit to one side or the other.

Depth of Field

If your camera allows it, use a low f-stop (e.g., f/4) to limit depth of field. This will make the background blur out while the subject will be sharp. This has a highlighting effect and anything behind the person will be less distracting.

Don’t Pose Your Subject

Unless you’re taking a portrait of a professional model, most people do not ‘pose’ very well. Try to get outside or somewhere your subject can move and look around. Move with them and snap photos as they look around. You’ll be amazed at how much better your portraits will look.

Posing

Okay, if you have to pose someone, try some of the tricks pros use. Have the person look anywhere but the camera and then when you’re ready to snap have them look toward you. Another trick is to have the subject bend forward for a moment and then stand up and look at the camera. Making your subject laugh can help, too. Also, don’t have your subject stand fully facing you. Head on shots are usually not flattering.

Be Aware of Lighting Conditions

Bright sun can cause deep shadows or make your subject squint. Find a shady spot or use the fill-flash option on your camera if it has one. Any strong light source can also cause shadows. Again, use a fill-flash or move the subject to softer light.

best portrait tips

Photo by mahnoorraja; ISO 1000, f/4.0, 1/15-second exposure.

Read Your Manual

Using digital cameras is so easy that most people only take a quick look at the manual to learn how to turn the camera on. Most cameras are feature-rich and have specific settings for portraiture, groups, and other situations. Learn how to use the settings and put them into use when appropriate.

Take Lots of Photos

With a digital camera you can try lots of different techniques, angles, and locations. Don’t be satisfied with a few photos. If inside, move outside and vice versa. Try different lighting and poses. This will give you plenty of options.

Learn Photo Editing Software

Even the simplest software is very sophisticated and can make a dull photo better by enhancing colors, contrast, and composition. The web is full of helpful instructions on how to achieve certain effects.

These simple tips will improve your photos dramatically. The most important tip though is to practice! Keep your camera handy when people are around and get snapping.

About the Author:
The Positive View Foundation has expertise in the field of photography, as demonstrated at the Landmark contemporary photography exhibition.

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PictureCorrect.com: Interesting Photo of the Day: Light-Painted Forest Octopus

The best thing about light painting is creative freedom. While we treat lack of light as a challenge in most genres of photography, that is totally not the case with light painting. Using your own source of light as a paintbrush, you gain the ability to paint whatever’s in your mind. You control what appears in the final image and are limited only by your own creativity. Take the following image by photographer Nikolay. The level of creativity is simply mind-blowing:

long exposure light painting

“Spooky Light Painting in the Woods” by Nikolay (Via Reddit. Click image to see full size.)

Nikolay shot the image on the Olympus OM-D EM1 with an 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro lens at f/3.2 and ISO 200 using the live composite mode. For the lighting, he used an LED flashlight and a double light blade.

While some can feel that the image is trippy with a psychedelic vibe, others feel it’s kind of spooky. It’s the look of an octopus in the middle of the woods that gives the eerie vibe to the image. It’s scary how it appears like the arms of an octopus emerging from the roots of the trees.

What do you see when you look at this image?

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PictureCorrect.com: Photo Tips for Rain and Clouds

Many photographers resent rainy days. It’s understandable: rainy and cloudy conditions are not ideal circumstances for lighting and gear safety. However, if you think creatively, it is possible to use such foul weather to your advantage. Rain and clouds can work as an interesting element in your photographs and elevate your photography. If you don’t know how, we have photographer Pye Jirsa with Adorama, who shares five techniques you can use to take beautiful photos during rainy and cloudy days:

If it’s drizzling, why not make the most out of it by including it in your shot? Or use your flash as a backlight to add highlights to raindrops, creating a fairytale effect and adds to the mood of the image. Just make sure that the background is relatively dark.

Then there’s the classic reflection shot that you can take with a puddle. Jirsa demonstrates in the video how you can use puddles creatively, either to include the subject and the reflection or only the reflection. While photographing just the reflection appears interesting, you need to make sure that the composition and pose are just right.

If you think about it, clouds work in our favor most of the time. They cut down harsh sunlight and bring down the scenic dynamic range so the camera can capture more details. And for portraits, cloudy conditions are the best. Clouds work as a huge softbox and diffuse the light beautifully, so you don’t get harsh highlights and shadows that can be a pain to work with. But if you still miss golden hour, Jirsa has a way out for you. Check out the video as he shares how you can create your own golden hour using flash and CTL gels.

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tiistai 30. elokuuta 2022

PictureCorrect.com: How to Add a Neon Background to Studio Portraits

Neon lights add a retro look to an image but they aren’t something that you can find in a small studio. Adding them in post is always an option, but it’s easier said than done. Neon being a light source in itself, it’s important that you get the lighting correct in-camera before opening up the image in Photoshop. Photographer Gavin Hoey from Adorama demonstrates how you can take an image and add a neon light to it later in post:

The idea is to photograph the model against a dark background so that the neon can be added easily later. Be sure to light the back of the model with a light as if the neon light is actually there. This way, you do not have to spend too much of your time fiddling around in post. Also, use a gel that’s the same color as the neon light that you want to add later in post.

By lighting the model on the back and the sides, it gives the illusion that she’s really standing in front of a neon light. Pop a flash at the front, and you can expose for the face. To make it more dramatic, Hoey chooses to use a blue gel for the flash in the front. Use some interesting props and that’ll take the shoot to the next level.

Adding the neon is only about importing the neon image, and masking it to place it behind the subject. With a little bit of Photoshop knowledge it shouldn’t take too much of your time. And to make it appear even more realistic, you can even blur it out. This gives the perception of a shallow depth of field, making it more believable.

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maanantai 29. elokuuta 2022

PictureCorrect.com: Landscape Photography Rules of Thumb

Composition is considered the main key to a beautiful and high quality landscape image. Also, more attention is being given to the aperture in order to ensure that the image will be sharp from front to back.

what are the rules of thumb for landscape photography

Photo by daveynin; ISO 100, f/4.0, 1/60-second exposure.

General Landscape Photography Tips

1. If you are confronted with a beautiful scene, isolate the elements that say something about the environment and complement the panoramic view. Avoid capturing everything in your composition.

2. You must have a point of interest in the landscape. This is a main feature that will hold the attention of viewers.

3. When shooting landscapes, your aperture must be the priority, usually f/8 or higher. Consider using the depth of field preview button of your camera to make sure you’re getting the desired effect.

4. Choose your lens wisely. Wide-angle lenses increase the foreground and sky content, make the subjects smaller, and exaggerate sweeping lines. On the other hand, telephoto lenses allow you to flatten the perspective, which then makes the foreground and background elements appear closer to one another. What you are focusing on will become larger.

landscape photography easy rules

Photo by Alfie Ianni; ISO 100, f/22.0, 1/50-second exposure.

5. On windy days, know that slow shutter speeds will record movement in the scene.

6. Horizons must be straight. But if you can’t make it straight, consider eliminating the horizon altogether by zooming in.

learn landscape photography rules

Photo by Ken Douglas; ISO 1000, f/5.6, 1/400-second exposure.

Advice for Specific Landscape Subjects

Forests. Dark forests may be one of the most difficult landscapes to photograph. Usually, the light is too low which makes tripods more necessary. The best time to take pictures in a forest is after it has rained or perhaps in light drizzle. Cloudy skies guarantee even lighting, and the water on the leaves adds life and emphasizes the color.

what to know about landscape photography

Photo by Thomas

Beaches. Sandy beaches are indeed great landscape subjects. A polarizing filter can improve the color and contrast in photographs taken around the waters by reducing the glare of the light.

landscape photography rules to learn

Photo by Crouchy69

Rivers and waterfalls. Flowing water can be interpreted in various ways through shutter-speed selection. For best results and depth of field, you have to use a tripod and a polarizing filter. The filter can improve the image by cutting out some reflections coming from wet rock and surrounding vegetation.

best landscape photography rules

Photo by Giuseppe Milo; ISO 200, f/11.0, 6.5-second exposure.

About the Author:
This article was written by Amanda Williams from cherishartz.com. Photographic artistry captured with passion.

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PictureCorrect.com: Interesting Photo of the Day: Milky Way From the Oregon Coast

It can be hard to imagine how minuscule we are as far as the universe is concerned. But if you want a visual reminder, try looking at a photo of our very own Milky Way. The following image taken by photographer Chase Dolan is an excellent reference. Just have a look at it, and you will get a quick sense of the grand design beyond our control:

milky way from the Oregon Coast

“Milky Way from the Oregon Coast” by Chase Dolan (Via Reddit. Click image to see full size.)

The image is a composite of two images that Dolan took with a Sony A7RIII and the Sony 24-70mm GM lens. The foreground is a five-minute-long exposure taken at 24mm, f/3.2 and ISO 1600. The sky is a three-minute exposure taken at 24mm, f/2.8 and ISO 1600. He also used a Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer tracker to avoid any star trails during such a long exposure.

“I had been wanting to shoot the Milky Way along this stretch of highway in southern Oregon all season long. Thankfully, I ended up making it out there just in time!”

Luckily, he was able to get this shot on the final evening of the galactic core being out for the 2020 season. Had he missed it, he would have to wait a full year to capture it. Talk about timing.

The details, the colors and the composition of this image are all exquisite. The puddle of water on the beach works beautifully as a compelling foreground drawing viewers right into the image. Plus, the rock in the midground is a great subject for context. Of course, the sky as the background is definitely the hero of this image. It appears like the stars are pouring down from the galactic core into the ocean causing a fiery mess.

If only we could see stuff like these with our naked eyes.

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PictureCorrect.com: Car Photography Tutorial Using Strobe

Professional photographer Lizzie Peirce hails from Toronto, Canada. She’s photographed for some of the top car brands, including Toyota and Mercedez Benz. So, she knows a thing or two about getting the perfect shot of luxury sports cars! However, her process extends much further than photography — all the way down to post-production and editing. In this video, she shares her top tips on how to shoot and edit images of cars using strobe lights.

Get Your Camera Set Up Right

For this shoot, Lizzie chose her Sony A7 and Sony 24mm F1.4 GM lens, both of which remain stationary on a tripod throughout. For natural light settings, she’s set the aperture to F/7.1 in order to capture even more of the cars’ detailing. She uses a shutter speed of 1/50 sec as the camera and lens will be securely resting on the tripod. Lizzie also suggests you secure the camera at around the height of the car mirror.

Lastly, she recommends ISO 100 up to 200, but this depends on your lighting. Now that the camera is all set up, you’ll need to sort out your strobe light settings. In Lizzie’s case, the ideal setting is 1800, but just like ISO settings, this figure could vary for you. For this shoot, Lizzie shot both in full natural light and low light — the latter of which she recommends as the strobe really “shines” in these conditions.

Leverage Your Strobe Light

What I want to make sure I capture is definitely an angle with the strobe … what you’re trying to do is capture it (the area of the car) in the most attractive way…

The main aim of shooting with strobe lights is to shoot detailing, which is what makes these lights excellent for photographing vehicles. Each car comprises tons of small, interesting elements, from grilles to rims and even the curves of the hood and car body. To achieve this, Lizzie shoots multiple strobe photos from various angles, highlighting a select area each time. However, she captures a full photo of the car first without any strobe, which she’ll use as a base to build upon later.

Once this initial shot is captured, she starts strobing, moving the light to each area of the car methodically. At this point, you should make sure that the strobe light doesn’t obscure the camera’s view of the specific area of the car you’re trying to capture. Otherwise, you’ll need to somehow edit the strobe light out or may even have to discard the image entirely. You also want to ensure that the car is clean. Touching up any unwanted dust or grime later on can take up a lot of time.

car photo strobe

Editing Is Everything

As you can see, photographing cars with strobe lights doesn’t result in one photo but many. Extensive editing is required to end up with a single finalized image. Lizzie’s go-to for lighting effects is Adobe Lightroom. She uses it to edit the base photo first, applying the same setting across all the other strobe images afterward. Her next step is to export the images to their own folder on her PC, compressing each image to 5000 KB.

Photoshop is where she puts it all together. Here’s a summarized guide on how to go about editing strobe car photos into one stunning image:

  1. First, drag all the images you wish to use into one Photoshop file and rasterize them.
  2. Then, auto-align the images by selecting Edit > Auto-Align Layers.. > Auto. Even though her camera barely moved, she warns to always align images as there are often small variations.
  3. Now it’s time to put all the images together. Start with the base image, which you should label “Base Image” or similar to make it easy to find.
  4. The editing process mainly focuses on masking parts of the base layer to reveal the best strobed image overlays. To do so, select one of the strobed images, add a mask, then select the paintbrush tool (hardness to 0).
  5. Next, invert the mask (ctrl I) to black. Now you can easily “paint” to reveal the strobed image or flip back to white to unpaint unwanted pixels. Do this for all of the strobed images.
  6. Last, repair any “hotspots” created by the flash — Lizzie makes a new layer on top of all others first. Then, restores any lost details that have been erased due to flash light or strobe hotspots.

Conclusion

Every subject demands a unique approach to photography, including the occasional use of strobe lights. Lizzie’s process is one she’s developed from extensive experiences photographing cars. She’s not shy to use strobe lights or editing software to get that perfect shot — and neither should you. Strobe lights can really bring out the best in vehicles, even in natural light settings.

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lauantai 27. elokuuta 2022

PictureCorrect.com: Learning to See in Black & White

One hundred years ago, making photographs in black and white was a technical limitation; today it is a creative choice. It is somewhat ironic that after a century of scientific development to deliver cameras capable of capturing the world full of rich textures and colors, so many of us have returned to making images in mono. Why would that be?

peaks and clouds

The 21st century has been a whirlwind of development in both camera/sensor technology and the processing power of our home computers. It is not too bold to suggest that most of our smartphones today are packed with more possibilities than our DSLRs were a decade ago. But, as always, contemporary tools are also full of quick fixes and automation, leaving us with both a gift and a curse. The gifts are obvious: speed, efficiency, convenience and not least, being able to bypass a lot of study and craft. However, the flip side of this is that we so often find ourselves handing our images over to the computer and failing to truly understand why it is we are making them in the first place.

The primary focus of this article is to cover the concept of Pre-Capture Visualization, that is, making a clear intention when we are in the field to make images without color. This is profoundly different from making a creative choice when we’re sat at the computer and can flip a color image into mono in seconds and decide it looks great! However, before we get to that, let’s first delve into the whole concept of why we would ever want to make images in black and white when we have so many creative possibilities in color.

Why B&W?

We are all unique; we all see the world as only we can see it – our perceptions, beliefs, visions, motives, and expression are all our own. Equally, our abilities to spend time in the field vary, with some limited to a few short moments at the weekend, after work, or on family vacations.

The landscape and nature work to their own agendas; the sun rises and sets, weather systems come and go, atmospheric pressures rise and fall, as do the tides and the passing of the seasons.

In short,

Do not expect nature to deliver the perfect conditions for the image you want to create at the time you want to make it.

landscape in color

How many variables had to align for this image to be made? Weather, tides, season, time of day, opportunity, creative vision, technical capture and processing technique, to name a few.

For years I used to measure the success of a photographic trip into nature by the images I made, and if I failed to make the image I had in my head prior to leaving the house, I would return home deflated and somehow resentful that nature had somehow let me down!

black and white mountain range

Now, I live by a far simpler mantra: shoot what is there in the available light.

Before we know it, we have found the first reason why we can shoot black and white images:

You can make successful mono images in any light.

Color is the subject in so many landscape images – often-poor compositions are compensated for with the saturation slider – adding wow and punch to the greens and reds to shock the viewer into a state of submission!

In black and white, the graphics and composition of the image are so vital, it tests the photographer, forcing them to be articulate and clear about the subject, lines of flow and balance.

ice formation

In the image above, the graphical elements of the image are stripped and cannot hide behind oversaturated colors. The eye takes a natural journey through a restful and simple image.

Suitable Light for B&W

Some lighting conditions that are excellent for black & white photography include the following:

  • Harsh directional light
  • Soft light under heavily textured cloudy skies
  • Fog
  • Silhouettes
  • Uniform skies with no textures
  • Side light on heavily textured surfaces

If you read between those lines, what we are saying is, many situations that people would consider non-conducive to landscape photography are ideal for making black and white images.

scotland landscape

The moodiness of a Scottish afternoon

Suitable Intent for Black & White

If you read anything I have ever written you will become familiar with the word intent. It is something I drill into every image I make and every spoken or written statement about the creative process.

If you sit a painter down with a black canvas in front of a landscape, they decide where to paint, how to paint, and why to paint. Every brush stroke has intention.

While landscape photographers may not have that degree of creative license, we can still decide what to include in the frame and very much how we want to post-process that image. We have plenty of opportunity for intention; it’s just that most choose to let the cameras or computers make creative choices for them!

black and white long exposure

By stripping our images of color, they can, in fact, be more expressive, as they lend themselves naturally to some, or all of the following intentions:

  • Timeless character
  • Ambiguity
  • Mood and mystery
  • Departure from reality

The whole genre of fine art photography rests on the shoulders of mono images, from cityscapes to bridges, architecture, lilies, portraits, and of course, landscapes. It is almost as if by stripping the world of color, the viewer truly sees it for the first time as a graphical series of shapes and tones.

Suitable Subjects for Black & White

We could be forgiven for being comical and saying anything is a suitable subject for black and white photography! But, some subjects do lend themselves to mono photography:

  • Strongly graphical elements
  • Scenes full of tonal contrast
  • Moody scenes
  • Monochromatic subject matter
  • Raw natural elements, such as rocks

Ultimately, the choice of subject is a very personal thing, as you choose to shoot what stimulates you and help you make some form of articulate statement about that place and yourself.

Landscapes can be simple, or they can be complex, and each of those should act as a trigger to focus your creative attention. Each of those types of landscape lends themselves to different images and will ultimately have a different effect and impact on your viewer.

Taking these two examples below —one simple, one complex—try to describe each using only emotional words. How do they feel?

minimalist bw photography

Light, airy, calm, barren, minimalistic, reflective

feelings from bw photography

Dark, moody, dramatic, majestic, ominous

Pre-Capture Visualization

bw beach photography

Looking is not the same as seeing. When we enter the landscape with a camera in our hands, more often than not we do not consider the image we are going to make. Instead, we become engrossed in the place and our reaction to it. We see a nice scene and raise the camera to record it. Later, at home, we can reflect and measure the success of our images by comparing them to the memories of the event.

Our viewers do not have that luxury of comparison; they get what we give them! Intention, again.

Our photographs are better by design; they are improved when we have a clear vision of what we want to shoot and how we want to present it to the viewers.

Black and white images can be visualized after the event, at home in front of the computer. We can select an image that is graphical, simple or naturally muted – perhaps when we were shooting in poor light, or in the middle of the day. Most DSLRs come with software that allows for mono processing and there is always Adobe Lightroom, which has an amazingly powerful array of creative tools.

Top 10 Tips for Seeing in Black and White

  1. If possible, set your camera to monochrome and then all your previews will be stripped of color. If you are shooting RAW, the color information is still recorded – if you still shoot jpeg, your images will now be in black and white.
  2. Experiment with the color filters in your DSLR mono settings. Shoot the same scene with a Blue Filter, then a Red Filter, then a Green Filter. The more colorful the subjects (blue sky, red rocks, green grass, etc.), the more dramatic the differences will be. When colors are converted into tones, they can be portrayed anywhere between white and black. Above, we see the original on the left, a Blue Filter in the middle and a Red Filter on the right. Creative post-processing plays a huge part in black and white photography, as it always has done.
  3. Start looking for shapes in the landscape—triangles, squares, circles. Stop seeing the world as a selection of subjects. Stripping the landscape down to geometry is an excellent way to understand the interaction and relationships of elements within the frame.
  4. Remember that the frame is a shape: four straight lines making up a square or rectangle. How subjects converge with these four lines is a key to simplicity and articulation.
  5. Find the flow. This is easy if there is flowing water in the scene, but if not, where is the eye leading through the frame? Is there a natural route, or is there something blocking the flow?
  6. Find simplicity. Black and white images are not the same as color images. You can get away with a lot more negative space in mono. One single rock, or subject in a field of negative space can be powerful.
  7. Consider investing in a neutral density filter. Something like a 10 stop ND Filter allows you to take long exposures of tens of seconds in the middle of the day. This is ideal for rendering the moving ocean as a mist of regular tone. Super for creating ethereal images full of calmness and isolating key subjects.
  8. Begin approaching post-processing as a creative process. Use the interface to try images with high or low contrast, brighter, or darker. How does the mood change?
  9. Go into the landscape without expectation. Shoot what you see and react to, not what you hoped to shoot.
  10. Invest in your development. Take to time to read and think about what you want your images to say and then work on the techniques necessary to realize that vision.

light tunnel

Summary

Poor light or the sunset or sunrise that failed to deliver is no longer an excuse to pack up early and go home – literally at any time of the day in any light you can find simple, graphic situation in which to make wonderful black and white images full of expression and articulation.

Your images can be bright and airy, or dark and mysterious, rich in detail, or stripped down to the most basic of elements. Either way, black and white allows for a huge spectrum of emotions to be expressed.

As with any other discipline of study, we can start simple and work up to complexity – letting the camera or the computer make some decisions is fine, but in time, taking creative control of the entire process becomes easier as post-processing and creative capture techniques are added to your toolbox.

mountains and ridges

Ansel Adams made some of the most exquisite and expressive landscape images ever. Nothing has really changed—just the tools. Be inspired.

About the Author
Alister Benn is a multi-award winning Scottish landscape photographer, author, and educator. He lives on the isle of Skye off the northwest coast of Scotland. They lead very small group tours and workshops to various locations on the west of Scotland, Iceland, and occasionally farther afield in China and Tibet. His teaching focuses very heavily on the technical and creative development of the participants and encourages the role of images as expressive and articulate statements.

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PictureCorrect.com: Interesting Photo of the Day: Misty Magical Morning

Landscape photographers will often tell you that the best time to go out to take photos is during the early mornings. During this hour, it’s like Mother Nature also wakes up from a good night’s sleep. We get to see beautiful misty and foggy conditions in cooler places, and the show is truly worth watching. Have a look at the following image that photographer Nicu Moldovan took in Pasul Tihuța, a mountain pass in Romania’s Bârgău Mountains. The image will definitely urge you to leave your bed early and head out to take some photos:

misty hills

“Misty Magical Morning” by Nicu Moldovan (Via Reddit. Click image to see full size.)

Moldovan took the image with his Sony A7III and Sigma 100-400mm DG OS lens at 300mm, f/11 and 1/100.

The misty condition in the image is definitely the hero in the image. With a great portion of the hills covered by the mist, it gives the image a surreal look. Some might even find it spooky while others can imagine as if the hills are floating on the clouds.

“My intent was to show the cold and nostalgic atmosphere that was present there.”

Another interesting aspect of the image is how beautifully he’s used a telephoto lens to photograph this scene. The 300mm focal length has created a beautiful compression and made it appear as if the hills are stacked upon each other. Even then, the eyes flow effortlessly from the bottom to the top.

And since he took the image even before the sun was up, you cannot make out the actual colors of the landscape. The shades of blue work better, lending the scene a dreamlike atmosphere.

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PictureCorrect.com: Understanding Equivalent Exposures

A camera has a powerful computer at its core. At the most basic level, it computes the best exposure based on a certain algorithm that manufacturers have developed. Mathematically, you can have multiple combinations of shutter speed, aperture, and ISO to obtain similar exposures. Having a clear understanding of exposure lets you change camera settings on the fly. Photographer Vincent Ledvina from Apalapse takes you through the basics of equivalent exposure:

What Are Equivalent Exposures?

Equivalent exposures are those combinations of shutter speed, aperture, and ISO that produce the same level of brightness in an image. As Ledvina explains, if your image is well exposed at f/8, 1/250 second, and ISO 100, it will be exposed similarly at f/2.8, 1/2000 second, and ISO 100. The three stop increase in light from f/8 to f/2.8 is compensated by the three stop increase in shutter speed from 1/250 to 1/2000 second. There will be a difference in depth of field, but the overall exposure will remain the same. These two settings are thus examples of equivalent exposures.

equivalent exposures

what is an equivalent exposure

The top and the bottom images differ only in depth of field while the exposure remains the same. Those corresponding settings are equivalent exposures.

Calculating Equivalent Exposures

“How do I calculate equivalent exposures?” you may ask. The answer is simple if you visualize the push-pull nature of camera settings. You need to understand a few things:

  • increasing the aperture value darkens the image while decreasing it makes the image brighter
  • decreasing the ISO value darkens the image while increasing it makes the image brighter
  • increasing the shutter speed darkens the image while decreasing it makes the image brighter

With a basic understanding of these effects, you then need to understand the net effect that you bring about in your image when you change a certain setting, and then compensate that by modifying the other settings. To simplify, consider the following example.

Let’s say an image is well exposed at f/4, ISO 800, and 1/15 second. To prevent motion blur, you change the shutter speed to 1/125 second; you lost three stops of light. And for a shallower depth of field, you use f/2, that is, you gain two stops of light. The net effect is that you lost one stop of light. To complement that, you can increase your ISO by one stop to ISO 1600. An image with settings f/4, ISO 800, and 1/15 second is an equivalent exposure to f/2, ISO 1600, and 1/125 second because they basically let the same amount of light into the camera.

To make your job easier, you can refer to the following stop chart provided by Ledvina. Each consecutive value represents an increase or decrease within a full stop:

stop chart

“Not only is this helpful for calculating equivalent exposures, but it also shows how manipulating camera settings changes the effects you see in your photos. “

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perjantai 26. elokuuta 2022

PictureCorrect.com: 5 Composition Tips for Landscape Photography

It may be hard to believe, but you can take very nice landscape photography even with the most basic equipment. You don’t need the latest and greatest ultra-wide lenses (although that does help create a unique perspective) or the fastest lens with an f/1.2 aperture.

composition landscape

“SR 190” captured by nat urazmetova

Landscape photography generally benefits from a deep depth of field, and ironically the type of cameras with inherently deep depth of field are compact point and shoot digital cameras! DSLRs have shallower depth of field, hence they lend themselves to creating shots with nice bokeh (out-of-focus elements).

These five tips will not feature the discussed-to-death rule of thirds. But for those looking for something on the rule of thirds, just remember this rule: Don’t place your subject right in the middle of the frame unless you are aiming for symmetry (see the first tip below).

1. Symmetry vs Asymmetry

Decide if you want the picture to be symmetrical or asymmetrical. Slight errors in composition (e.g., a crooked horizon) will dilute the effect of the picture. Certain pictures benefit from asymmetry, which means that the left side is dramatically different from the right side. Asymmetry works well for pictures where you wish to highlight the differences between two elements in the picture.

2. Timing

Yes, timing plays a part in the composition of a landscape photograph as well. Timing in the elements within the picture includes choosing the right moment to click the shutter. I was composing a scene in my DSLR during a nice clear afternoon. The sun cast some interesting shadows across the bridge floor, but I wanted something more. Hearing footsteps behind me, I turned around and saw a farmer walking towards me. I waited for her to cross the bridge a little more and clicked the shutter. It made the picture more interesting than if I had shot just the bridge alone.

“Castelluccio di Norcia – Umbria, Italy” captured by Eric Huybrechts

Timing also includes choosing the right time of day to shoot. You can use the shadow of an object to lead the attention of the viewer to the main subject that is in full view. This type of shadow only appears when the sun is at a certain angle (see my post on light ratios for landscapes).

3. Framing Elements

By choosing your framing elements carefully, you can bring a new point of view to a subject. Slow down, and look for interesting angles. The best way to do this is by taking a walk. Sometimes we pass by too quickly if we travel in motorized transport. Trees can be easily used as framing elements.

You can also use the framing elements to tell a story, as in a picture of a door panel that has a sculpture of a sentry guarding the entrance to the palace.

4. Perspective

Using a wide angle lens, we can exaggerate the perspective of a picture to shift the focus of the story to a specific element in the picture. Shooting from a very low angle with your camera almost touching the ground, using an ultra wide angle lens, can exaggerate the height of vertical elements, and create converging lines that seem to meet at the top.

landscape photography perspective

“Road to special places” captured by Nic McPhee

The other extreme is using a telephoto lens to compress perspective. Telephoto lenses make distant objects appear closer than they are, thereby allowing you to stack elements together.

5. Isolation and Focus

Giving the subject plenty of white space (as designers call it) around it can focus the viewer’s attention. Panoramic pictures are good solutions if you want to create isolation. Panoramas do not need an ultra-wide angle lens. A standard kit lens is all you need to take several shots side by side and later stitch them up on the computer. In fact, an ultra-wide angle lens would create too much distortion to stitch a panorama easily.

About the Author:
Andy Lim (www.simpleslr.info) runs a photography business that spans wedding photography, commercial photography and conducting photography workshops.

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PictureCorrect.com: Interesting Photo of the Day: Star Trails Over Mt. Kirkjufell

It is always a wonderful feeling to first see the results of a celestial long exposure, because they’re often unpredictable. But if you know how the night sky behaves and plan your shot accordingly, you may have an idea of what will turn up—and you’ll be rewarded with some fantastic images. That’s what happened for photographer Simen Aarseth Gjelsvik. He’d thought about taking this shot almost a year before he did it, and now he’s finally captured it:

“Star Trails Over Mt. Kirkjufell” by Simen Aarseth Gjelsvik (Via Reddit. Click image to see full size.)

Gjelsvik caught the image with a Sony A7RIII and Sony Zeiss 16-35mm f/4 lens. In order to achieve the effect, Gjelsvik took 100 shots, each at 30 seconds, 16mm, f/4 and ISO 1600, and later stacked them in Photoshop.

“I had this shot in mind before heading to Iceland last October, and I was lucky enough to get a perfectly clear sky the first night!”

He started to shoot the image some 45 minutes after sunset and kept shooting for about an hour. And because it’s Iceland, you can still see the sun looming over the horizon even though it’s nighttime. This has created a fantastic contrast between the night sky on the left and the evening sun on the right.

Another interesting detail about the image is how Polaris, the pole star, seems to align perfectly with the peak Kirkjufell. That’s some fantastic planning by Gjelsvik. Even the reflection of the mountain on the water surface is a great addition. Its calmness beautifully balances the dynamic motion of the stars in the sky above.

What do you feel about this image?

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PictureCorrect.com: How Diffraction Affects Sharpness in Photography

Who doesn’t love sharp images? One of the factors that affect sharpness is the aperture value used to take an image. Wider apertures have less area in focus. As the aperture is narrowed down, the sharpness gradually increases, and after a certain point, the image again starts getting softer. This is due to a phenomenon of light called diffraction. Photographer Tony Northrup explains in detail what diffraction is and how it affects sharpness in your images:

Landscape and macro photographers usually use higher f-stop numbers. This allows the camera to record an image that’s sharp in the foreground and background.

“We think of higher f-stop numbers as adding more sharpness. But in reality, at the place where you’re focusing, the opposite is really true.”

A lens usually performs best a stop or two above its lowest f-stop number. As you go on increasing the f-stop value to values like f/16 or f/22, diffraction comes into play and ruins your sharpness. Have a look at the following comparative images:

diffraction affects sharpness

how diffraction affects sharpness

However, this doesn’t necessarily mean that you should stop shooting at higher f-stop values. Just avoid using overly narrow f-stops. And if you want to be extra sure, simply set your camera to aperture priority mode and take a series of photos at different apertures. You can then choose the best of the bunch later. For ultimate sharpness, focus stacking is always an option.

The Science Behind Diffraction

As light passes through the opening between the aperture blades, the light particles behave normally and pass on straight. However, the light particles that pass close to the aperture blades bend slightly from their actual path. The variance might be just a few pixels, but that’s enough to reduce the sharpness of your image.

diffraction

“It seems like the photon is interacting with the electrons of the atoms of the aperture blade.”

If the aperture is wide open, a greater number of the photons will pass undisturbed. But at small aperture settings, most of the photons will have to pass close to the aperture blades, resulting in increased deviations from the actual path. The increased deviations create images that are less sharp.

“If the pull from the edge of the aperture affected every photon exactly the same, we wouldn’t see a reduction in sharpness.”

Sweet Spot of a Lens

Almost every lens tends to have a sweet spot where it produces the sharpest results. Why is that? This has to do with the optical quality and the effects of diffraction.

Cheaper lenses perform okay at the center but have greater aberrations at their edges. However, this is not exactly true when it comes to high-end lenses. So, when you narrow down the aperture, the lens will use more of the center part, so the images appear sharper. But along with it, the effects of diffraction will slowly start creeping in that will make the images softer. Somewhere in the middle will be an f-stop value wherein the lens will have a balance between the two and the image will be the sharpest—hence the sweet spot.

To find the sweet spot, set your camera and lens up on a tripod and take multiple shots at varying f-stops with delayed shutter enabled. Then, closely examine your images to determine the f-stop value at which the lens produces the best results.

Have you figured out the best apertures for the lenses you use?

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torstai 25. elokuuta 2022

PictureCorrect.com: Backlit Silhouette Portraits: Photography Activity

This is a portrait of a person or thing, taken with bright back light, causing the subject to be rendered as a dark shape. You’ll need:

  1. A source of bright light (open window, bright sun behind a person outdoors, etc.). The sunset with water behind it is a great setting for this kind of shot.
  2. A willing model.
silhouette photo

Photo captured by Zac Durant; ISO 100, f/16.0, 1/100s.

Camera Setup

  • Mode: Aperture Priority (often shown as Av on the mode wheel)
  • ISO: 100 or so (there will be lots of light)
  • White Balance: Custom
  • Aperture: Mid-range, from f/5.6 to f/16

Exposure

Even in aperture priority, the camera may try to expose for the subject. You may have to use your exposure compensation to drop the exposure by 2-3 stops.

White Balance

Take a shot of your gray card or reference paper before you adjust your exposure compensation. Make sure it’s bright grey, and set custom white balance.

Pose

This is your choice, but I recommend an interesting body pose. For ladies, I recommend a turned pose, off-center, hands on hips, head facing 90 degrees so you can see a face silhouette.

Framing the Image

For people shots, frame in portrait mode, and not on center. Think of the rule of thirds, and leave some open space to one side.

Take the Image

You want a very bright background and the subject quite dark. If the camera refuses to do this naturally, you can use the exposure compensation down by 2-3 stops from normal to force a darkening of the underexposed portions. Do not use flash!

Advanced Tricks

Instead of messing with exposure compensation, you can expose for the background, note the f-stop and shutter speed, and then switch to manual mode and crank up the f-stop (to larger f-numbers) or crank up the shutter speed (to faster values), to lower the total exposure. It also holds those parameters and will not float around like aperture value tends to do when changing your composition. Also, in post production, you can use the levels tool to pull in the darks and make them darker.

jumping silhouette

Photo captured by Kid Circus; ISO 250, f/13.0, 1/100s.

Analyzing and Improving

If you can get the background perfectly exposed, to see the colors and features, and the silhouette is dark, you have nailed it! Try the same kind of shot with non-people things such as bridges, buildings, towers—anything that has less light on one side and will create an iconic shadow.

About the Author:
John Huegel is a photographer in the Erie, Pennsylvania area who specializes in Seniors, Dance Studio, Families and other groups. He operates a blog for professional photographers at http://newphotopro.blogspot.com. He is active in many charitable and volunteer activities in the Erie area.

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PictureCorrect.com: Interesting Photo of the Day: Jupiter’s Auroras

With giant storms, powerful winds, auroras, and extreme temperature and pressure conditions, Jupiter has a lot going on. Now, NASA’s James Webb Space Telescope has captured new images of the planet. Webb’s Jupiter observations will give scientists even more clues to Jupiter’s inner life.

jupiter auroras

Webb NIRCam composite image of Jupiter from three filters – F360M (red), F212N (yellow-green), and F150W2 (cyan) – and alignment due to the planet’s rotation. Credit: NASA, ESA, CSA, Jupiter ERS Team; image processing by Judy Schmidt.

“We hadn’t really expected it to be this good, to be honest,” said planetary astronomer Imke de Pater, professor emerita of the University of California, Berkeley. De Pater led the observations of Jupiter with Thierry Fouchet, a professor at the Paris Observatory, as part of an international collaboration for Webb’s Early Release Science program. Webb itself is an international mission led by NASA with its partners ESA (European Space Agency) and CSA (Canadian Space Agency). “It’s really remarkable that we can see details on Jupiter together with its rings, tiny satellites, and even galaxies in one image,” she said.

The two images come from the observatory’s Near-Infrared Camera (NIRCam), which has three specialized infrared filters that showcase details of the planet. Since infrared light is invisible to the human eye, the light has been mapped onto the visible spectrum. Generally, the longest wavelengths appear redder and the shortest wavelengths are shown as more blue. Scientists collaborated with citizen scientist Judy Schmidt to translate the Webb data into images.

In the standalone view of Jupiter, created from a composite of several images from Webb, auroras extend to high altitudes above both the northern and southern poles of Jupiter. The auroras shine in a filter that is mapped to redder colors, which also highlights light reflected from lower clouds and upper hazes. A different filter, mapped to yellows and greens, shows hazes swirling around the northern and southern poles. A third filter, mapped to blues, showcases light that is reflected from a deeper main cloud.

The Great Red Spot, a famous storm so big it could swallow Earth, appears white in these views, as do other clouds, because they are reflecting a lot of sunlight.

“The brightness here indicates high altitude – so the Great Red Spot has high-altitude hazes, as does the equatorial region,” said Heidi Hammel, Webb interdisciplinary scientist for solar system observations and vice president for science at AURA. “The numerous bright white ‘spots’ and ‘streaks’ are likely very high-altitude cloud tops of condensed convective storms.” By contrast, dark ribbons north of the equatorial region have little cloud cover.

A wide-field view showcases Jupiter in the upper right quadrant. The planet’s swirling horizontal stripes are rendered in blues, browns, and cream. Electric blue auroras glow above Jupiter’s north and south poles. A white glow emanates out from the auroras. Along the planet’s equator, rings glow in a faint white. At the far left edge of the rings, a moon appears as a tiny white dot. Slightly further to the left, another moon glows with tiny white diffraction spikes. The rest of the image is the blackness of space, with faintly glowing white galaxies in the distance.

A wide-field view showcases Jupiter in the upper right quadrant. The planet’s swirling horizontal stripes are rendered in blues, browns, and cream. Electric blue auroras glow above Jupiter’s north and south poles. A white glow emanates out from the auroras. Along the planet’s equator, rings glow in a faint white. At the far left edge of the rings, a moon appears as a tiny white dot. Slightly further to the left, another moon glows with tiny white diffraction spikes. The rest of the image is the blackness of space, with faintly glowing white galaxies in the distance.

elements of jupiter

Webb NIRCam composite image from two filters – F212N (orange) and F335M (cyan) – of Jupiter system, unlabeled (top) and labeled (bottom). Credit: NASA, ESA, CSA, Jupiter ERS Team; image processing by Ricardo Hueso (UPV/EHU) and Judy Schmidt.

In a wide-field view, Webb sees Jupiter with its faint rings, which are a million times fainter than the planet, and two tiny moons called Amalthea and Adrastea. The fuzzy spots in the lower background are likely galaxies “photobombing” this Jovian view.

“This one image sums up the science of our Jupiter system program, which studies the dynamics and chemistry of Jupiter itself, its rings, and its satellite system,” Fouchet said. Researchers have already begun analyzing Webb data to get new science results about our solar system’s largest planet.

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PictureCorrect.com: Using Different Focus Points for Portraits

Today, cameras come with hundreds of focus points in them, while cameras in the past had just a handful of them. This is a good indication of how technology in the photography industry has advanced. But what good is having more of something when you cannot utilize it properly? Photographer David Bergman from Adorama explains how you can use the different focus points in your camera to take sharp portraits:

Single Point AF

As the name suggests, when using the single point auto-focus mode, you get to work with a single auto-focus point. This is a precise and a quick way to lock focus as the camera does not have to look around much. Also, you can move the single AF point around quite conveniently and place it on the subject’s eye for a sharp portrait.

single autofocus point

Expand AF

When working in the expand AF mode, you’ll notice that there are other smaller points that appear around the main AF point. The smaller points are like a support to the actual auto-focus point and help in retaining the focus better. With the camera in the expand AF mode, even if you do not place the focus point right above the subject, the smaller dots will provide you with a bit of leeway.

expand autofocus points

Zone AF

Zone AF tells the camera to look within and focus on a certain smaller area of the sensor. This mode is “inaccurate” as the camera will tend to focus on the closest thing within the defined zone. In other words, you will have no precise control even within the defined zone as far as focus is concerned. This makes zone auto-focus a less preferred method for taking portraits.

zone autofocus

Face and Eye Detection AF

Many modern cameras come with a handy feature that makes taking portraits that much easier: face detection and eye detection. With this, the camera will try and lock on to the subject’s eye for a tack sharp portrait. If it doesn’t find the eye for some reason, then the camera locks focus on the subject’s face; that’s helpful too.

eye autofocus mode

How do you like to use the auto-focus points when taking portraits?

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PictureCorrect.com: All About Tilt Shift Lenses (Video Tutorial)

Out of all the different types of lenses out there, the tilt shift lens must be the most interesting one. If you’re aware of it, you may know that it’s mostly used in architecture photography. And there’s a pretty good reason for it. However, the usage is not limited to architecture photography. If you’re wondering what makes the tilt shift lens so special, here we have Thio Joe who explains everything that you need to know:

(for those of you reading this by email, the video tutorial can be viewed here)

A tilt shift lens is not at all a general purpose lens that you can use on a daily basis. But, you can get quite interesting results using it. What’s interesting about this lens is that you can shift the lens top-down, or right-left, and also tilt the plane of focus.

With the tilt feature, your plane of focus isn’t limited to being parallel to the sensor. You can move the plane of focus around in any direction as needed. This creates a really interesting miniature effect which can yield great results when used creatively.

And thanks to the really large image circle formed by these lenses, you can even shift the lens around that effectively shifts the image on the circle. Even if you shift the lens by a few millimeters, it translates to an effect that’s the equivalent of moving the camera by multiple feet. Because of this feature, we can get rid of the converging lines when photographing tall architectural structures.

Have you ever worked with a tilt shift lens? What’s the most interesting feature you like about it?

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keskiviikko 24. elokuuta 2022

PictureCorrect.com: Golden Hour Photography Tips

Of all 24 hours in a day, only two mean anything to photographers: the hour after sunrise, and the hour before sunset. That’s when the sun does its magic, casting a heavenly golden glow over the world, making mountains shine and lakes sparkle beautifully, hence the name. Photographers crave this light—it’s ideal for weddings, portraits and, of course, landscapes.

golden hour landscape

Photo captured by Petr Vysohlid; ISO 100, f/9, 1/20s.

Remember, though: the word “hour” there is pretty loose. Depending on the time of year and where in the world you are, the golden hour can last anywhere from 20 minutes to well over an hour. If clouds are passing by, the whole thing might only be useful for 10 minutes—that’s why the elusive moment is so desirable among professional photographers, and why setting up the right shot in advance is so crucial. If you get it right, the golden hours are pretty much guaranteed to enhance any landscape shot.

How do the golden hours work?

When the sun is below six degrees above the horizon, it casts a warm, diffused soft light onto the world. Because the sun shines basically level with the Earth’s surface, it eliminates awkward shadows that an overhead sun would cast over mountain peaks.

If you adjust your exposure and aperture correctly, you can also bring out the orange that a bright, low sun casts across the sky.

How to best capture the golden hour

If you want a pristine landscape, set your alarm early. Sunsets are great, but I defy you to try and find a landscape that’s less crowded during sunset than sunrise. Even if avoiding crowds isn’t an issue, showing up early is a good idea so you can find the best spot to stand your tripod and adjust your manual settings.

Early morning in nature is often dewier than the late afternoon. This can be great for misty mountain shots, or awful for your camera if it fogs up.

The golden hour is also an ideal time to play around with an ND filter and nab a few magical long exposures of flowing clouds or water. Use a low ISO with a slow shutter speed, and the sun’s glow can capture a beautiful moment.

golden hour exposure

Photo captured by Zetong Li; ISO 100, f/2.8, 15 seconds.

Using multiple exposures

Golden hour shots offer a rich natural warmth that’s difficult to accurately match in post-production. That said, if you’re shooting into the sun at this hour—which you might very well be, if you want to capture the purple or orange rays cast over the clouds, or above an ocean—it’s a good idea to use exposure bracketing for high dynamic range (HDR), a method of composing multiple exposures in post-production that balance out various conflicting exposures.

We’ll talk more about shooting sunrises and sunsets in the next section. But for now, know that exposure bracketing is a great idea even if you’re not shooting into the sun, because when the golden hour lasts as briefly as it does, you want to guarantee that at least one of your shots turns out great and make HDR processing a possibility.

Golden Hour in the City

Certain landscapes are known for their golden hours. Most cityscapes aren’t. But capturing a city during its golden hour can produce a magical result, as most of us can’t appreciate the cities in which we live during these hours—we’re too busy sleeping, commuting or eating dinner. At its finest, photography shows us our world in a way we don’t normally see. Because so few of us see the sun rising or setting over our skylines, the golden hour is a great opportunity to define a city’s character in, literally, a new light.

cityscape golden hour

Photo captured by tom coe; ISO 200, f/14, 15 seconds.

There are a few city-specific techniques you should keep in mind to bring out the best your city has to offer.

Plan ahead

Take stock of which direction the sun is going to rise and set in. With landscapes, it can be easier to maneuver yourself nature, crossing your fingers only for good weather. But in cities you may be faced with skyscrapers, odd street angles and difficult vantage points. Finding a high angle from which to shoot is one way to avoid those types of problems, but if you’re shooting from the ground, knowing which buildings get hit by certain lights is always best.

Do some location scouting. Walk through your city during the golden hours instead of driving when you need to get somewhere (or not during the golden hour, but with an eye for cardinal directions) and notice which parts light up. If something strikes you in particular, take note of it for a return camera outing.

Do some reflecting

Many modern buildings feature curtain walls—lightweight, reflective exteriors created purely for smooth design, rather than structural integrity. In other words: their surfaces are shiny. Aside from being aesthetically cool, these glassy exteriors make for beautiful city mirrors, and can double the clouds during golden hours. Use them whenever you can.

You can find many more reflective surfaces in cities than in natural landscapes—you can find reflective surfaces in car windshields, storefronts, bays and fountains. But when it comes to shooting during the golden hours, wider water bodies like lakes, rivers and fountains tend to work better, because sunlight doesn’t hit them straight-on, and they can double up the orange glow and any clouds floating above.

Again, it’s good to have spots in mind; stumbling upon city locations is possible, but planning ahead will make your cityscape photography experience much easier.

The unbearable lightness and darkness

Probably the single biggest difference between cityscapes and landscapes: light variance. During pure night this doesn’t matter quite as much, as you’re exposing to manage building or lamp lights, but the surrounding scene is otherwise black. That’s not the case during the golden hour, when the sky’s light and buildings’ light are both powerful, burning bright, and vastly different. Moreover, you’ll likely be adding some pure black in the mix as well, not to mention in-between shades.

bracketing cityscape

Exposure bracketed photo captured by Raf Winterpacht

This is where exposure bracketing becomes absolutely critical. I try to shoot five-shot brackets in these situations whenever possible, in order to capture all the tones of light: the natural sky tones and artificial building ones. The range of light can be quite drastic here, so you’d do best to try and catch everything perfectly, in one shot or another.

Another lighting trick to balancing the light, if you’re shooting a city without very much sky (but using the golden hour light to enhance a building or street), is to switch your metering to spot-metering, and spot it to a part of a city set in the shadows. Underexpose your camera by one f-stop to balance the details between the highlights and shadows. This is valuable in landscapes, too, but in cities, it’s almost always the case where half your scene will be blocked by buildings, and the other half lit up by gorgeous light. But such is the contradiction of cityscape photography: it hinges on balancing the beauty of our natural world with the magnificence of our hand-built one. Do it well, and you’ll forge an unforgettable moment out of a fleeting one.

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