PictureCorrect.com: Hidden Risks Every Travel Photographer Should Know

Travel photography is one of the most rewarding ways to combine creativity and adventure—but it also comes with unique risks. When you’re focused on light, composition, and timing, it’s easy to miss warning signs that something isn’t quite right. From gear-related tricks to fake opportunities, here are some of the most common scams travel photographers encounter—and how to avoid them.

Related note: only 1 day left for the Travel Photography Cheat Sheets at 88% Off!

1. The “Too Good to Be True” Photo Gig

You get a message while traveling: a brand, hotel, or tourism board loves your work and wants to hire you immediately. The catch? They need a “small upfront fee,” ask you to wire money for permits, or want to pay with a check for more than the agreed amount and have you refund the difference.

How to avoid it: Legitimate clients don’t ask photographers to send money first. Ever. Verify the company through official websites, look for real contact details, and insist on standard contracts and secure payment methods.

2. Street Portrait Traps

In popular travel destinations, locals may happily pose for your camera, only to demand payment afterward—sometimes aggressively. In other cases, someone encourages you to photograph a performer or animal, then suddenly appears with a fee.

How to avoid it: Always ask about payment upfront before taking the shot. If money isn’t discussed clearly beforehand, assume there will be an expectation later.

3. Fake “Permits” and Authority Figures

Someone claiming to be an official—park ranger, tourism officer, or local authority—may approach you and say photography isn’t allowed without a permit. They offer to “help” by selling you one on the spot, usually in cash.

How to avoid it: Research local photography rules before you go. Real permits are issued through official offices, not curbside. If in doubt, ask to see identification and confirm through an official channel.

4. Gear Distraction Scams

A classic tactic in crowded areas: one person distracts you—asking questions about your camera or offering help—while an accomplice steals gear from your bag or tripod.

How to avoid it: Keep your bag zipped and in front of you, use anti-theft straps, and avoid setting gear down unattended, even for a moment.

5. “Model Release” Extortion

After taking photos of someone or their property, they claim you need a release and demand payment to avoid trouble, especially if they see professional-looking equipment.

How to avoid it: Know local laws regarding public photography and releases. Calmly explain your rights, and avoid escalating the situation. When possible, move on rather than argue.

6. Fake Wi-Fi and Data Theft

Free public Wi-Fi in cafés, airports, or hotels can be compromised. Scammers use it to access accounts, cloud storage, or even client galleries.

How to avoid it: Use a VPN, avoid logging into sensitive accounts on public networks, and back up photos offline whenever possible.

7. Social Media Impersonators

Scammers may clone your profile, steal your images, or pose as you to approach brands or followers—damaging your reputation and income.

How to avoid it: Use watermarks where appropriate, enable two-factor authentication, and regularly search for impersonation accounts so you can report them quickly.

8. Equipment Rental Scams

In some destinations, rental shops swap your gear for damaged items or claim you returned equipment broken—even if it wasn’t.

How to avoid it: Photograph rented gear at pickup and return, keep receipts, and rent only from well-reviewed businesses.

Final Thoughts

Travel photography should be about storytelling and discovery—not stress. A little awareness goes a long way. Do your research, trust your instincts, and slow down when something feels off. Protecting your gear, your images, and your time means you can focus on what really matters: capturing incredible moments wherever you go.

For Further Training:

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PictureCorrect.com: When to do Noise Reduction in a Photo Editing Workflow

In the age of digital photography, noise can often sneak its way into our photos. Whether it’s the grainy specks in low-light shots or the colored pixels in certain textures, noise can be distracting and degrade the quality of an image. Thankfully, we have the tools and software to address this issue. But when should you incorporate noise reduction into your photo editing workflow? Let’s dive in.

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Photo captured by Darwin Vegher

1. Understanding Noise

Before we address when to tackle noise, it’s crucial to understand its types:

• Luminance Noise: These are the grainy, black and white specks that appear in photos, especially in shadows or under low-light conditions.
• Chroma (Color) Noise: These are the colored specks that can appear anywhere in the photo, often in uniform areas like the sky or skin tones.

2. The Ideal Time for Noise Reduction

Typically, noise reduction should be one of the earlier steps in your editing process, especially if it’s a significant concern in the image. Here’s why:

• Before Detailed Edits: Reducing noise before making detailed edits ensures that you don’t accidentally enhance the noise when adjusting sharpness, clarity, or contrast.
• After Raw Conversion: If you’re shooting in RAW (which is recommended for the most editing flexibility), apply noise reduction after converting the file. Some RAW converters even have built-in noise reduction tools.
• Before Color Adjustments: Chroma noise can impact how colors appear, so it’s wise to reduce this noise before making color corrections.

3. Things to Remember

• Don’t Overdo It: While it’s tempting to completely eliminate noise, over-processing can result in a plasticky look, void of details. Balance is the key.
• High ISO Isn’t Always Bad: Yes, higher ISO settings can introduce noise. But don’t be afraid of it. Sometimes, a bit of grain adds character to a photograph.
• Noise Reduction Tools Matter: Not all noise reduction tools are made equal. Some software focuses on luminance noise while ignoring chroma noise, and vice versa. Research and invest in one that suits your needs.

Incorporating noise reduction at the right time in your photo editing workflow ensures that you maintain image quality without sacrificing essential details. Remember, while the aim is to reduce distractions, retaining the natural feel and texture of the photograph is just as important. Happy editing!

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PictureCorrect.com: The One Thing That Makes Photography Income Predictable

Most photographers think unpredictable income is just part of the deal. One month is busy, the next is silent. A few good shoots followed by long stretches of nothing. It’s frustrating—and it leads many people to believe photography can never be a reliable source of income.

But unpredictability usually isn’t caused by the market, the algorithm, or competition. It comes from relying on one-off opportunities instead of repeatable systems.

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Talent Doesn’t Create Predictability

Skill matters. Good photos help you get hired. But skill alone doesn’t make income predictable.

Plenty of talented photographers still rely on referrals, social media luck, or seasonal demand. When those dry up, so does the work. The problem isn’t quality—it’s the absence of a structure that keeps opportunities coming even when you’re not actively promoting yourself.

The Real Difference: Repeatable Processes

The one thing that makes photography income predictable is having a repeatable way to attract, convert, and retain clients.

Predictable income doesn’t come from a single great shoot. It comes from knowing:

• Where new inquiries usually come from
• How those inquiries turn into booked work
• What happens after the job is finished

When those steps are defined and consistent, income stops feeling random.

Systems Turn Interest Into Bookings

A system doesn’t have to be complicated. In fact, simple systems work best.

It might be:

• A clear service page that answers pricing questions upfront
• A standard response you send to new inquiries
• A follow-up email that checks in after a shoot

Each piece reduces friction. Instead of reinventing the wheel for every client, you’re guiding them through a familiar path. That familiarity builds confidence—and confidence increases bookings.

Retention Is Where Stability Comes From

Many photographers focus entirely on getting new clients and ignore the easiest source of predictable income: past clients.

A system for staying in touch—seasonal check-ins, reminders, or simple updates—turns one-time jobs into repeat work. Even a small number of returning clients can smooth out income swings dramatically.

Predictability doesn’t require more clients. It requires better relationships with the ones you already have.

Pricing Consistency Matters More Than Pricing Level

Unpredictable income often comes from inconsistent pricing. Adjusting rates on the fly, offering discounts out of pressure, or making exceptions “just this once” makes it hard to forecast anything.

Clear pricing structures and defined packages create boundaries. Clients know what to expect, and you know what each booking is worth. That clarity makes planning possible—even if volume fluctuates.

Why Systems Feel Uncomfortable at First

Many photographers resist systems because they feel restrictive or “too business-like.” But systems don’t replace creativity—they protect it.

When your business runs on repeatable processes, your creative energy goes into the work itself, not into chasing leads, writing emails from scratch, or stressing about the next job.

The Bottom Line

Photography income becomes predictable when your process is predictable.

Not when your photos get better. Not when social media finally clicks. But when you build simple systems that guide people from interest to booking to repeat work.

Once that’s in place, photography stops feeling like a gamble—and starts feeling like a business you can actually plan around.

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PictureCorrect.com: Camera Settings for Night Markets and City Streets

Night markets and city streets after dark are some of the most visually rich places you can photograph—glowing signs, layered light sources, motion, atmosphere, and human interaction all happening at once. But they’re also where many photographers struggle the most. Light levels change quickly, colors mix unpredictably, and movement is constant.

The key to success isn’t exotic gear or perfect conditions—it’s understanding how to choose camera settings that balance sharpness, mood, and responsiveness in low light.

This guide walks through practical, real-world camera settings for photographing night markets and city streets, with an emphasis on handheld shooting, adaptability, and intentional creative control.

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Start With the Right Exposure Mode

In fast-moving night environments, Aperture Priority or Manual with Auto ISO are usually the most reliable choices.

• Aperture Priority (Av / A): Ideal when light levels fluctuate constantly. You control depth of field, and the camera adjusts shutter speed.
• Manual + Auto ISO: Gives full control over aperture and shutter speed while letting ISO float to maintain exposure.

For most photographers, Manual + Auto ISO offers the best balance of control and speed once you’re comfortable with it.

Aperture: Let the Light In (But With Intent)

Night markets are dim, crowded, and visually complex. A wider aperture helps you gather light and isolate subjects.

Recommended aperture range:

• f/1.8–f/2.8 for subject isolation and low light
• f/3.5–f/4 if you want more environmental context

Wider apertures:

• Allow lower ISO or faster shutter speeds
• Create separation in busy scenes
• Emphasize faces, hands, or products against chaotic backgrounds

Stopping down slightly (around f/2.8–f/3.2) often improves sharpness while still keeping backgrounds soft.

Shutter Speed: Freeze Life—or Let It Move

Movement is everywhere: people walking, vendors working, steam rising, lights flickering. Your shutter speed determines whether your image feels energetic or chaotic.

General guidelines (handheld):

• 1/125s–1/250s: Freezes people, gestures, and quick moments
• 1/60s–1/100s: Good balance for walking subjects
• 1/30s–1/50s: Introduces motion blur for atmosphere
• Below 1/30s: Best used intentionally or with stabilization

If your images feel soft, it’s often motion blur—not missed focus. Err on the side of a slightly faster shutter speed and let ISO rise if needed.

ISO: Embrace It (Within Reason)

Modern cameras handle high ISO far better than most photographers expect. In night street photography, noise is often preferable to blur.

Practical ISO approach:

• Set Auto ISO with a max of 3200–6400 (or higher if your camera allows)
• Don’t be afraid of grain—it often enhances night atmosphere
• Avoid heavy noise reduction that smears detail and skin texture

A sharp, slightly noisy photo will almost always feel stronger than a smooth but blurry one.

Focus: Keep It Simple and Predictable

Low light and busy scenes can confuse autofocus systems.

Recommended focus setups:

• Single-point AF for precise subject placement
• Zone AF for quick reactions in crowds
• Continuous AF (AF-C / AI Servo) for moving subjects

If your camera struggles to lock focus:

• Aim at contrasty edges (faces, hands, signage)
• Avoid focusing on flat, dark surfaces
• Use back-button focus if you’re comfortable with it

Manual focus can work, but autofocus is usually faster and more flexible in dynamic street environments.

White Balance: Control the Color Chaos

Night markets combine LED signs, tungsten bulbs, fluorescents, and neon—often all in one frame.

Best strategies:

• Auto White Balance: Flexible and fine if you shoot RAW
• Kelvin mode (3000–4200K): Offers consistency across a series
• Embrace color shifts rather than neutralizing everything

Trying to make all light sources “accurate” often removes the atmosphere. Let warm stay warm. Let neon glow.

Metering: Protect the Highlights

Bright signs and bulbs can easily blow out.

• Use Evaluative / Matrix metering as a starting point
• Slightly underexpose (–0.3 to –1 EV) to preserve highlights
• Watch histogram and highlight warnings, not just the LCD preview

You can lift shadows later—blown highlights are gone forever.

Image Stabilization: Helpful, Not Magic

Stabilization allows slower shutter speeds, but it doesn’t freeze subject movement.

Use it to:

• Shoot at 1/30s–1/50s handheld
• Reduce camera shake
• Keep static elements sharp

But remember: people still move. Stabilization won’t fix that.

A Simple Starting Setup

If you want a fast, reliable baseline:

• Mode: Manual + Auto ISO
• Aperture: f/2.0–f/2.8
• Shutter speed: 1/125s
• Auto ISO max: 6400
• Focus: Single-point AF or Zone AF
• White balance: Auto or 3800K
• Metering: Evaluative

Adjust from there based on motion and light.

Final Thought

Night markets and city streets reward photographers who react quickly and accept imperfection. Grain, blur, color shifts, and contrast all become part of the story when handled intentionally.

Mastering camera settings in these environments isn’t about technical perfection—it’s about staying present, anticipating moments, and letting the scene breathe through your choices.

If you can control exposure, motion, and focus under these conditions, everything else starts to feel easier.

For Further Training:

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Showing you step by step how to dial in settings, avoid common mistakes, and get the shot — even when you’re tired, rushed, or shooting in unfamiliar conditions. Travel-ready, no Wi-Fi required, and designed to be quick to reference so you can spend less time guessing and more time shooting.

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PictureCorrect.com: 5 Photo Editing Mistakes That Make Your Photos Look Over-Processed

You have seen the look before. Skin glowing like a traffic cone, skies so blue they belong in a cartoon, and grain cranked up so high the photo looks like it was taken through a screen door. Over-processed photos are everywhere, and the worst part is that most people doing it think their edits look great.

I get it. I’ve been there too. You discover a slider, you get excited, and suddenly everything gets the same heavy-handed treatment.

Here are five of the most common editing mistakes I see, why they happen, and how to fix them. All in Lightroom Classic.

Related note: for more help with Lightroom Classic styles, there is a new site called Hyperfocal that can create photo editing presets based on descriptions or style matching.

1. Cranking Saturation Instead of Using Vibrance

This is the big one. The saturation slider is a sledgehammer. It boosts every colour equally, which means skin tones go orange, greens go neon, and the whole image starts looking like a poster for a theme park.

Vibrance is the smarter tool.

It boosts muted colours more aggressively while barely touching tones that are already saturated, and it is specifically biased to protect skin tones from going orange. The difference is subtle when you compare the sliders side by side, but it is massive in the final image.

The fix is to keep saturation between -10 and +10 for most photos and let vibrance do the heavy lifting for global adjustments. If you need more control beyond that, colour grading and the HSL panel are where you should be working. They let you target specific hues without blowing out everything else.

If you find yourself pushing saturation past +20, take a step back and ask yourself if the image actually needs it.

2. Over-Sharpening Everything

Sharpening is one of those settings that looks amazing at 100% zoom and terrible everywhere else. Crank the amount slider too high and you will start seeing halos around edges, crunchy textures in skin, and noise that was invisible before.

The problem is that most people sharpen while zoomed into their photo at 100% or even 200%. At that zoom level, you are pixel-peeping and chasing detail that nobody will ever notice in the final image. Then you export, post it online, and wonder why it looks harsh.

A good starting point is an amount of 40, a radius of 1.0, and detail around 25 (which are the defaults once you enable sharpening). For portraits, use the masking slider to protect smooth areas like skin.

Hold Alt (or Option on Mac) while dragging the masking slider and you will see exactly which areas are being sharpened. White areas get sharpened, black areas are left alone.

If you are using the latest version of Lightroom Classic, the AI masking tools take this even further.

You can create a mask that excludes the subject or skin entirely, so sharpening only hits the background, clothing, and hair while leaving the face completely untouched.

3. Going Too Hard on Clarity and Texture

Clarity and texture are addictive sliders. They add punch and make details pop, which feels great when you are editing. The problem is that a little goes a long way, and most people use way too much.

High clarity on a portrait makes every pore, wrinkle, and blemish more visible. It is the opposite of flattering. On landscapes, too much clarity creates that overcooked HDR look where everything has an aggressive, gritty halo around it.

For portraits, try keeping clarity between -5 and +10. Negative clarity can actually be really flattering for skin. For landscapes and architecture, you can push it higher, but anything above +30 starts to look unnatural pretty quickly.

Texture follows the same logic. Use it to enhance specific areas like hair or foliage, but do not treat it like a global improvement slider.

4. Lifting Shadows & Blacks So Much That You Kill the Mood

Every beginner tutorial tells you to pull up the shadows slider to “recover detail.” And that is true, to a point. The problem is when you lift shadows so aggressively that the photo becomes completely flat.

Shadows exist for a reason. They add depth, dimension, and mood to a photo. A moody street scene at dusk needs those dark areas. A portrait with dramatic side lighting needs contrast between the lit face and the shadowed side.

When you fill in every shadow, you remove the thing that made the photo interesting in the first place.

The next time you are editing, try being intentional about which shadows you want to keep and how much you want to lift the blacks. Instead of globally lifting the shadows slider to +70 or higher, try a more moderate value around +20 to +30.

Then use the tone curve to selectively brighten just the midtones if you need more visibility in specific areas. The goal is to retain detail in the shadows without eliminating them entirely.

5. Ignoring Colour Grading Completely

This is less of a “mistake” and more of a missed opportunity. A lot of photographers adjust the basic panel, maybe tweak HSL a little, and call it done. They never touch colour grading, and it shows.

Colour grading is what separates a technically correct edit from one that actually has a look. It is the difference between a photo that is “well exposed” and a photo that feels like something.

Adding a slight teal to the shadows and a warm orange to the highlights creates that cinematic feel you see everywhere. A subtle warm shift in the midtones makes golden hour shots feel even more golden.

You do not need to go crazy with it. Start by adding a small amount of warmth (around hue 40, saturation 10-15) to the highlights and a cool tone (around hue 200, saturation 10-15) to the shadows. That is the classic warm highlights, cool shadows tone and it works on so many types of images.

From there, experiment with the balance slider to shift the emphasis between shadows and highlights.

The Bigger Picture

All five of these mistakes have something in common. They come from a good instinct taken too far. You want vibrant colours, sharp details, punchy contrast, visible shadows, and a cohesive look. Those are all good goals. The trick is restraint.

The best edits are the ones where nobody can tell the photo was edited at all. The colours feel natural, the details are there without being aggressive, and the mood is intact. That is the sweet spot.

If dialing in all of these settings feels overwhelming, or if you just want a solid starting point that you can fine-tune, tools like Hyperfocal let you describe the look you are going for in plain language and generate a custom Lightroom preset in seconds. It is a good way to skip the trial and error and land on a balanced edit right away.

Happy editing.

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PictureCorrect.com: How to Use Bulb Mode on a Camera

Most cameras limit shutter speeds to a maximum of about 30 seconds. For many situations, that’s more than enough. But when you want to keep the shutter open longer—long enough to capture extended light trails, star movement, fireworks, or extremely smooth water—Bulb mode is the tool that makes it possible. Bulb mode allows the shutter to remain open for as long as you choose, giving you full control over exposure time.

Related: Want to master advanced techniques faster? PictureCorrect Premium is designed to be an accelerator with lessons, exercises, and more — and it’s only $1 to try today

Photo by Mattias Diesel

Unlike standard shutter speeds, Bulb mode does not use a preset duration. The shutter opens when you press the shutter button and closes when you release it, or when you end the exposure using a remote shutter release. This manual timing is what makes Bulb mode useful in low-light or long-duration scenes where motion unfolds slowly and unpredictably.

Because Bulb exposures often last minutes instead of seconds, stability becomes critical. A solid tripod is essential, and using a remote shutter release or interval timer helps prevent vibration when starting and ending the exposure. Even small movements can soften an image during long exposures, so it’s important to eliminate any unnecessary contact with the camera while the shutter is open.

To access Bulb mode, switch your camera to Manual mode and scroll past the longest shutter speed until Bulb appears. Start with a low ISO to reduce digital noise, then choose an aperture that balances light intake and depth of field. Since exposure time is entirely manual, it helps to take a test shot at 20–30 seconds first. If the image is still too dark or the motion effect feels incomplete, switch to Bulb mode and extend the exposure.

Light control becomes increasingly important with very long exposures. In dark environments, Bulb mode can reveal subtle detail and motion the eye can’t easily see. In brighter conditions, however, exposures can quickly become too bright. Neutral density filters are often used to limit incoming light, allowing longer shutter times without overexposing the scene. Reviewing the histogram after each shot helps ensure highlights are not being clipped.

Learning Bulb mode encourages a slower, more intentional approach to photography. Instead of reacting quickly, you plan the exposure, observe how light and movement change over time, and decide precisely when the exposure should begin and end. That mindset translates well to many other areas of photography, even when working with shorter shutter speeds.

Photo by Cody Board

Mini Exercise: Your First Bulb Mode Exposure

Find a scene with steady movement, such as passing cars, flowing water, or drifting clouds. Set your camera on a tripod, switch to Manual mode, and select Bulb. Start at ISO 100 and choose an aperture around f/8. Take a test shot at 30 seconds, then switch to Bulb mode and extend the exposure to one or two minutes using a remote or timer. Compare the results and note how extended time changes the feel of motion and light in the image.

Premium Subscribers Are Already Ahead:

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Whether you’re working to master manual control, or advanced techniques, Premium gives you the structure to make steady progress. The special $1 intro offer is wrapping up this evening, and once it’s gone, so is your chance to lock in early access.

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PictureCorrect.com: Engagement Photography Tips and Techniques

Related note: further training today at the Lighting Cheat Sheets Valentine’s Sale

The precursor to the actual event, engagement photography is what helps show the couple’s spark with each other and creates widespread awareness of their upcoming wedding. As the photographer, it is important for you to do your research so that the couple’s engagement pictures will be creative, interesting, entertaining, love-struck, and most of all, satisfying for the couple themselves.

Photo by sergey mikheev; ISO 100, f/8, 1/1250s.

1. Preview the couple

No, I don’t mean to actually screen the couple before you decide to work with them. (Although in some cases, this might actually be a smart idea.) Get to know who these people are in advance. Meet with them over coffee, for lunch, or just chat a while on the phone. The best way for you to get the engagement photos that this couple wants is to figure out what it is that they actually want. Get a feel for their personality and their chemistry together.

2. Keep them connected

This engagement picture tip basically speaks for itself. Keep the couple connected with each other. Sure, they are going to be somewhat nervous (especially if they are not super comfortable with you just yet), but do your best to keep them into one another. This leads me to my next pointer.

photo by Sean McGrath

3. PDA is Okay (and necessary!)

Because an engagement photo session is completely different from a normal headshot, model, or family photo shoot, you have to remember that the overall theme for these pictures is love. Make the couple comfortable and aware that they should kiss, hug, hold hands, be playful, be silly, and be touchy-feely mushy gushy all they want! It makes the pictures more personal and personable!

4. As always…”Burst mode!”

This seems to be recurring theme in my articles. Definitely make a point to use burst mode while doing engagement photography. The couple will be nervous, so after they do their initial and stiff pose for the camera (thinking they look natural!), they will loosen up, smile, laugh, look at each other. Those are the moments you want to catch more than anything.

5. Location is Crucial

If you have been doing photography, especially engagement photography, for a while, you may know of some great places around your town to take engagement pictures. Prepare yourself with a list of locations and interesting places beforehand that you can suggest to the couple. They most likely will be open and willing to consider anything you have to say! Also, couples frequently travel to other towns for their engagement pictures, so make sure you have tracked down some hot spots that will be aesthetically pleasing.

Photo by Stephen Leonardi; ISO 1600, f/3.5, 1/1000s, 70mm.

6. Do Your Research!

The only way for you to actually be as knowledgeable and prepared as you want to be (and want the couple to think you are) is to do your research. As with the previous engagement photo tip, research locations for engagement pictures. Look up creative engagement picture poses that you could suggest to the couple during the shoot. Learn what clothing options will be wise to suggest for them to wear.

7. Clothing Optional (well, not quite)

They might be committed to just one person, but make sure this couple has options! Tell them to bring a few changes of clothes so that you can get some different engagement shots in different locations. You want to give them variety and creativity. Also, let them know what colors not to wear. Examples: white, khakis, light colors, etc. Depending on the background, certain colors and prints may not mesh.

photo by // jonCates

8. Suggest an event shoot

Most couples won’t think of this amazing idea for engagement pictures, so you should suggest it to them! Offer the idea to go along and shoot a date night for the couple. Have them go to the place where they met, their favorite restaurant, or out doing their favorite hobby. Another fabulous engagement photo shoot idea is taking pictures at their engagement party! We just did an engagement shoot like this and the pictures are priceless. Friends, family, and most importantly, the couple, were all included!

9. Shoot in RAW (vs. JPEG)

This helpful hint is especially important when shooting indoors! Shooting in RAW gives you the liberty of having a wider range of exposure adjustments during the editing process. Some may prefer one format over another, but on our engagement photo shoots, we want to make sure we have the most options possible so we can come out with the best engagement pictures possible.

10. Don’t Focus on the Face

This hint sounds ludicrous for engagement pictures, right?! Well, of course you should take pictures of the couple’s faces! But on the flip side, try focusing on things other than just those. Have the bride-to-be lift her foot as if they were kissing, and snap a picture of their shoes from the knee down. Make absolute positive you get that engagement ring in some pictures! Catch her whispering something in his ear. Shoot them from the neck down. All of this is interesting and innovative for the eye.

photo by Julita B.C.

11. Be vocal (they won’t!)

Finally, one of the most important engagement pictures tips I can give you is to be vocal. Have fun with the couple and suggest poses for them to try. Have general conversation to loosen them up. Tell a few jokes (if you happen to be funny) and create a warm friendly atmosphere. Direct them and they will take direction. Many couples want you to hold their hand along the engagement picture path and lead the way. Take advantage of this power! You have the liberty to come up with something new, creative, and fantastic. They will appreciate this when the editing process is over!

About the Author:
Callie Colleen Smith can provide more information about wedding photography, family pictures, engagement, or modeling headshots. Smith is an assistant photographer who works with Shane Messer and Raychle Searfoss at Shane and Raychle Photography in Nashville, TN and Louisville, KY.

For Further Training:

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Whether you’re a seasoned professional or just starting out, photography cheat sheets can be a valuable resource for improving your skills and taking your photography to the next level. By having all the key information you need in one place, you can focus on what’s important – capturing amazing photos.

Valentine’s sale ending soon: Photo Lighting Cheat Sheets at 80% Off

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