tiistai 13. lokakuuta 2026

PictureCorrect.com: The Best Aperture Settings for Long Exposure Photography

When shooting long exposure photography, most photographers focus on shutter speed. But aperture plays an equally important role in determining how sharp, detailed, and properly exposed your final image will be.

Choosing the right f-stop can mean the difference between a beautifully smooth waterfall and a photograph that looks unexpectedly soft.

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aperture long exposure

Photo captured by Rachel Peri; Aperture at f/10.0

Why Aperture Matters for Long Exposures

Aperture controls how much light enters your camera and influences depth of field. A smaller aperture (higher f-number) lets in less light, allowing you to use a longer shutter speed without overexposing your image.

For example, changing from f/8 to f/16 reduces the light entering your camera by two stops. That means a 2-second exposure at f/8 would require approximately 8 seconds at f/16 to maintain the same brightness, assuming ISO and lighting remain unchanged.

However, there’s a catch: smaller apertures don’t always produce sharper photographs.

The Sweet Spot: f/8 to f/11

For most landscape long exposures, f/8 to f/11 is an excellent starting point.

These apertures typically provide:

  • Good depth of field for landscapes
  • Excellent sharpness across much of the frame
  • Reduced optical aberrations compared with wide-open apertures
  • Enough flexibility to achieve longer shutter speeds with ND filters

Many lenses perform particularly well around f/8, although the ideal aperture depends on your lens and camera.

Why You Should Avoid f/22

It might seem logical to select f/22 when you want the longest possible exposure. After all, a smaller aperture means less light reaches the sensor.

Unfortunately, extremely small apertures introduce diffraction, an optical effect that reduces fine detail and overall sharpness.

At f/16 or f/22, diffraction can become noticeably more pronounced, especially on high-resolution cameras.

Instead of stopping down excessively, consider using a neutral density (ND) filter to reduce the incoming light while keeping your lens near its optimal aperture.

When to Use Wider Apertures

Not every long exposure requires f/8 or f/11.

For nighttime photography, including star trails and certain cityscapes, wider apertures such as f/2.8 or f/4 can be beneficial.

These settings allow more light into the camera, helping you capture faint details without requiring excessively high ISO settings.

However, wider apertures produce a shallower depth of field, so careful focusing becomes especially important.

aperture chart

Final Tip: Control Shutter Speed with ND Filters

One of the most useful lessons in long exposure photography is that aperture should primarily serve your depth-of-field and sharpness requirements, not simply your desired shutter speed.

Start around f/8, choose a low ISO, and use an ND filter when you need to extend the exposure. This approach gives you greater control over motion blur without unnecessarily sacrificing image quality.

And remember: the best aperture isn’t always the smallest one. It’s the setting that gives you the depth of field and sharpness your particular photograph needs.

Want to Master Long Exposure Photography?

Understanding aperture is just one piece of the puzzle. Our Long Exposure Photography Guide & Cheat Sheets (currently 70% off today for our 🍂 Autumn Afterglow Sale) walks you through camera settings, ND filters, shutter speed calculations, focusing techniques, and creative approaches to capturing beautiful long exposures.

long exposure guide

Whether you’re photographing silky waterfalls, dramatic coastlines, moving clouds, or nighttime scenes, you’ll learn how to take control of your exposures with confidence.

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sunnuntai 11. lokakuuta 2026

PictureCorrect.com: Golden Hour Photography Tips

Of all 24 hours in a day, only two mean anything to photographers: the hour after sunrise, and the hour before sunset. That’s when the sun does its magic, casting a heavenly golden glow over the world, making mountains shine and lakes sparkle beautifully, hence the name. Photographers crave this light—it’s ideal for weddings, portraits and, of course, landscapes.

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golden hour landscape

Photo captured by Petr Vysohlid; ISO 100, f/9, 1/20s.

Remember, though: the word “hour” there is pretty loose. Depending on the time of year and where in the world you are, the golden hour can last anywhere from 20 minutes to well over an hour. If clouds are passing by, the whole thing might only be useful for 10 minutes—that’s why the elusive moment is so desirable among professional photographers, and why setting up the right shot in advance is so crucial. If you get it right, the golden hours are pretty much guaranteed to enhance any landscape shot.

How do the golden hours work?

When the sun is below six degrees above the horizon, it casts a warm, diffused soft light onto the world. Because the sun shines basically level with the Earth’s surface, it eliminates awkward shadows that an overhead sun would cast over mountain peaks.

If you adjust your exposure and aperture correctly, you can also bring out the orange that a bright, low sun casts across the sky.

How to best capture the golden hour

If you want a pristine landscape, set your alarm early. Sunsets are great, but I defy you to try and find a landscape that’s less crowded during sunset than sunrise. Even if avoiding crowds isn’t an issue, showing up early is a good idea so you can find the best spot to stand your tripod and adjust your manual settings.

Early morning in nature is often dewier than the late afternoon. This can be great for misty mountain shots, or awful for your camera if it fogs up.

The golden hour is also an ideal time to play around with an ND filter and nab a few magical long exposures of flowing clouds or water. Use a low ISO with a slow shutter speed, and the sun’s glow can capture a beautiful moment.

golden hour exposure

Photo captured by Zetong Li; ISO 100, f/2.8, 15 seconds.

Using multiple exposures

Golden hour shots offer a rich natural warmth that’s difficult to accurately match in post-production. That said, if you’re shooting into the sun at this hour—which you might very well be, if you want to capture the purple or orange rays cast over the clouds, or above an ocean—it’s a good idea to use exposure bracketing for high dynamic range (HDR), a method of composing multiple exposures in post-production that balance out various conflicting exposures.

We’ll talk more about shooting sunrises and sunsets in the next section. But for now, know that exposure bracketing is a great idea even if you’re not shooting into the sun, because when the golden hour lasts as briefly as it does, you want to guarantee that at least one of your shots turns out great and make HDR processing a possibility.

Golden Hour in the City

Certain landscapes are known for their golden hours. Most cityscapes aren’t. But capturing a city during its golden hour can produce a magical result, as most of us can’t appreciate the cities in which we live during these hours—we’re too busy sleeping, commuting or eating dinner. At its finest, photography shows us our world in a way we don’t normally see. Because so few of us see the sun rising or setting over our skylines, the golden hour is a great opportunity to define a city’s character in, literally, a new light.

cityscape golden hour

Photo captured by tom coe; ISO 200, f/14, 15 seconds.

There are a few city-specific techniques you should keep in mind to bring out the best your city has to offer.

Plan ahead

Take stock of which direction the sun is going to rise and set in. With landscapes, it can be easier to maneuver yourself nature, crossing your fingers only for good weather. But in cities you may be faced with skyscrapers, odd street angles and difficult vantage points. Finding a high angle from which to shoot is one way to avoid those types of problems, but if you’re shooting from the ground, knowing which buildings get hit by certain lights is always best.

Do some location scouting. Walk through your city during the golden hours instead of driving when you need to get somewhere (or not during the golden hour, but with an eye for cardinal directions) and notice which parts light up. If something strikes you in particular, take note of it for a return camera outing.

Do some reflecting

Many modern buildings feature curtain walls—lightweight, reflective exteriors created purely for smooth design, rather than structural integrity. In other words: their surfaces are shiny. Aside from being aesthetically cool, these glassy exteriors make for beautiful city mirrors, and can double the clouds during golden hours. Use them whenever you can.

You can find many more reflective surfaces in cities than in natural landscapes—you can find reflective surfaces in car windshields, storefronts, bays and fountains. But when it comes to shooting during the golden hours, wider water bodies like lakes, rivers and fountains tend to work better, because sunlight doesn’t hit them straight-on, and they can double up the orange glow and any clouds floating above.

Again, it’s good to have spots in mind; stumbling upon city locations is possible, but planning ahead will make your cityscape photography experience much easier.

The unbearable lightness and darkness

Probably the single biggest difference between cityscapes and landscapes: light variance. During pure night this doesn’t matter quite as much, as you’re exposing to manage building or lamp lights, but the surrounding scene is otherwise black. That’s not the case during the golden hour, when the sky’s light and buildings’ light are both powerful, burning bright, and vastly different. Moreover, you’ll likely be adding some pure black in the mix as well, not to mention in-between shades.

bracketing cityscape

Exposure bracketed photo captured by Raf Winterpacht

This is where exposure bracketing becomes absolutely critical. I try to shoot five-shot brackets in these situations whenever possible, in order to capture all the tones of light: the natural sky tones and artificial building ones. The range of light can be quite drastic here, so you’d do best to try and catch everything perfectly, in one shot or another.

Another lighting trick to balancing the light, if you’re shooting a city without very much sky (but using the golden hour light to enhance a building or street), is to switch your metering to spot-metering, and spot it to a part of a city set in the shadows. Underexpose your camera by one f-stop to balance the details between the highlights and shadows. This is valuable in landscapes, too, but in cities, it’s almost always the case where half your scene will be blocked by buildings, and the other half lit up by gorgeous light. But such is the contradiction of cityscape photography: it hinges on balancing the beauty of our natural world with the magnificence of our hand-built one. Do it well, and you’ll forge an unforgettable moment out of a fleeting one.

For Further Training:

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lauantai 10. lokakuuta 2026

PictureCorrect.com: How to Calculate Long Exposure Shutter Speeds Without Guessing

Long exposure photography can transform waterfalls into silky streams, ocean waves into soft mist, and moving clouds into dramatic streaks. But how do you know whether your shutter should stay open for 5 seconds, 30 seconds, or several minutes?

Fortunately, there’s a simple formula that takes the guesswork out of calculating long exposures.

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photographers long exposure

30 seconds, f/11, ISO 100, 25mm. Photo captured by martin bennie

Step 1: Find Your Starting Shutter Speed

Before attaching an ND filter, compose your shot and determine the correct exposure using your camera’s light meter.

For example:

  • Aperture: f/11
  • ISO: 100
  • Shutter speed: 1/125 second

This is your starting exposure. Adding an ND filter reduces the incoming light, so you’ll need a longer shutter speed to compensate.

Step 2: Calculate Your New Shutter Speed

ND filters are measured in stops. Each additional stop halves the light entering your camera, requiring you to double the exposure time.

Here’s how different ND filters affect a starting shutter speed of 1/125 second:

shutter speed chart

The formula is:

New Shutter Speed = Original Shutter Speed × 2^(ND Filter Stops)

For example, with a starting shutter speed of 1/60 second and a 10-stop ND filter:

1/60 × 2¹⁰ = 17.1 seconds

Your new exposure time is approximately 17 seconds, assuming your aperture and ISO remain unchanged.

Step 3: Choose the Right Creative Effect

The mathematically correct exposure isn’t necessarily the most visually appealing one. Different subjects benefit from different shutter speeds:

  • Waterfalls: 1/4–2 seconds for smooth water with some texture.
  • Ocean waves: 5–30 seconds for a soft, misty appearance.
  • Moving clouds: 30 seconds to several minutes for dramatic streaks.
  • City light trails: 10–30 seconds to capture moving vehicle lights.

These are starting points. Experiment with different exposure lengths to find the effect you prefer.

Step 4: Check and Fine-Tune

After capturing your first image, check the histogram and highlight warnings. ND filters aren’t always perfectly accurate, and changing light conditions can affect your exposure.

If the image is too dark, increase the exposure time. If it’s too bright, shorten it.

Quick tip: Doubling the exposure time adds one stop of light. Halving it removes one stop.

You can also use an ND filter calculator app to perform these calculations instantly.

Final Thoughts

Once you understand how ND filter stops affect shutter speed, long exposure photography becomes much more predictable. Start with a properly metered exposure, apply the formula, and fine-tune your settings based on the results.

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perjantai 9. lokakuuta 2026

PictureCorrect.com: 12 Things to Check When Your Photos Aren’t Sharp

You captured a great composition, the lighting looked perfect, and everything seemed fine on your camera’s screen. But when you opened the photo on your computer, the details looked soft or blurry.

Before blaming your camera or investing in a new lens, check these 12 common causes of unsharp photos. Most are surprisingly easy to fix.

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photos not sharp

1. Your Shutter Speed Is Too Slow

Even tiny camera movements can create blur. A useful starting point for handheld photography is the 1/focal length rule: with a 100mm lens, use at least 1/100 second. Account for crop factor on smaller sensors, and use faster speeds when necessary.

Quick fix: Double your shutter speed and compare the results.

2. Your Subject Is Moving

A perfectly steady camera won’t prevent blur if your subject moves during the exposure. Children, pets, wildlife, and even leaves blowing in the wind may require faster shutter speeds.

Quick fix: Try 1/500 second for moderate movement or 1/1000 second and faster for action.

3. Your Camera Focused on the Wrong Spot

Autofocus can accidentally lock onto the background, foreground, or another object instead of your intended subject.

Quick fix: Select your autofocus point manually or enable eye detection for portraits. Zoom in during playback to confirm what’s actually sharp.

4. Your Aperture Is Too Wide

Shooting at f/1.4 or f/1.8 creates beautiful background blur but leaves very little depth of field. Even a slight focusing error becomes noticeable.

Quick fix: Try f/2.8 or f/4 to give yourself more room for accurate focus.

5. Your Aperture Is Too Small

At very small apertures such as f/16 or f/22, diffraction can reduce fine detail, making the entire image appear slightly softer.

Quick fix: Try f/5.6 to f/8, where many lenses perform particularly well, unless you need greater depth of field.

6. You’re Using the Wrong Autofocus Mode

Single autofocus (AF-S) works well for stationary subjects, but moving subjects often require continuous autofocus (AF-C) to maintain focus.

focus modes

Quick fix: Switch to continuous autofocus when photographing children, pets, sports, or wildlife.

7. Your Image Stabilization Settings Aren’t Ideal

Image stabilization helps reduce handheld camera shake, but it cannot freeze a moving subject. Some older stabilization systems may also introduce problems when used on a tripod.

Quick fix: Enable stabilization when shooting handheld and check your camera’s recommendations for tripod use.

8. You’re Shaking the Camera When Taking the Shot

Pressing the shutter button can introduce vibration, especially during longer exposures. Even a tripod won’t completely eliminate this possibility.

Quick fix: Use a two-second self-timer or remote shutter release when photographing stationary subjects.

9. Your ISO Is Too High

High ISO introduces noise, and aggressive noise reduction can smooth away important textures like hair, feathers, and foliage.

Quick fix: Use the lowest practical ISO without sacrificing the shutter speed needed for a sharp image.

10. Your Lens or Filter Is Dirty

Fingerprints, condensation, and oily smudges can reduce contrast and create hazy-looking photographs. Poor-quality protective filters may also affect image quality.

Quick fix: Clean your lens properly and try removing your protective filter to see whether sharpness improves.

11. Your Lens Has Sharpness Limitations

Not every lens performs equally well at every aperture or focal length. Some are softer when used wide open, particularly toward the corners.

Quick fix: Test your lens at different apertures. Stopping down one or two stops often improves sharpness.

12. Your Editing Is Making Photos Look Soft

Excessive noise reduction can erase fine detail, while insufficient sharpening may leave an otherwise sharp photograph looking flat. Too much sharpening creates unnatural edges and halos.

Quick fix: Evaluate sharpening at 100% magnification. Adjust Amount, Radius, and Masking carefully to preserve natural-looking detail.

A Quick Sharpness Test

If you’re unsure what’s causing the problem, photograph a detailed, stationary subject in good light. Use a tripod, f/5.6, a low ISO, careful focus, and a two-second timer.

Then take the same photograph handheld.

Compare the images at 100% magnification. If the tripod version is noticeably sharper, camera movement or technique may be responsible. If both look soft, investigate focus, aperture, or lens performance.

Final Thoughts

Sharp photographs aren’t necessarily the result of expensive equipment. They’re usually the result of good technique, accurate focus, and appropriate camera settings.

The next time your images look soft, don’t immediately blame your lens. Work through these 12 checks, change one thing at a time, and discover what’s really causing the problem.

A small adjustment might be all you need to make your next photograph noticeably sharper.

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torstai 8. lokakuuta 2026

PictureCorrect.com: New Photography Bundle at 5DayDeal for 2026

Leading photography educators & brands have been selected to contribute products to take your photography to the next level. Over $1500 of products & resources for photographers at 93% off, but it’s only available for 5 days. It’s one of the best photography deals of the year so you may want to check it out. Deal ending soon: The 5 Day Photography Deal 2026

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The Complete Photography Bundle 2026 by 5DayDeal is a collection of industry leading training, tools, and inspiration for photographers at every level and in every or genre.

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An all-new, and exclusive collection that will only ever exist during these five days, never to return. These products have never been offered through 5DayDeal in the past and they’ll never be included in the future—this is your once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to get the training and tools you need to make your online efforts more successful.

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photography education

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keskiviikko 7. lokakuuta 2026

PictureCorrect.com: Photographing the Draconid Meteor Shower

Most meteor showers require photographers to stay awake until the early morning hours. The Draconid meteor shower, peaking around October 8, 2026, is different. Its best viewing opportunities often come during the evening, shortly after the sky gets dark.

That makes it an excellent opportunity to practice meteor photography without staying up all night.

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draconid meteor shower

What Makes the Draconids Special?

The Draconids originate from debris left behind by Comet 21P/Giacobini-Zinner. Each October, Earth passes through this debris, producing streaks of light as small particles burn up in our atmosphere.

Unlike faster meteor showers, Draconid meteors travel relatively slowly, at approximately 21 kilometers per second. Their radiant is located in the constellation Draco, which is favorably positioned during the evening for observers in the Northern Hemisphere.

The shower typically produces only a handful of meteors per hour, although occasional outbursts have occurred.

The good news for 2026: With the new moon approaching on October 10, moonlight should interfere very little with viewing.

The Draconids are best viewed from the Northern Hemisphere, including North America, Europe, and much of Asia. Observers near the equator may also catch a few meteors, but viewing becomes increasingly difficult farther south. The shower is generally not visible south of 40° south latitude.

Best Camera Settings for the Draconids

A DSLR or mirrorless camera, wide-angle lens, and sturdy tripod are all you need to get started.

  • Camera mode: Manual
  • Aperture: f/1.8–f/2.8
  • Shutter speed: 10–15 seconds
  • ISO: 1600–3200
  • Focus: Manual, on a bright star
  • File format: RAW
  • Shooting mode: Continuous interval shooting

Use a wide-angle lens, ideally 14–24mm on a full-frame camera, to capture as much sky as possible.

Although the meteors appear to originate from Draco, try pointing your camera about 30–60 degrees away from the radiant. This can produce longer, more dramatic meteor streaks.

meteor shower

Photo captured by Michał Mancewicz. 18mm, f/3.5, 15 seconds, ISO 3200

The Secret: Keep Your Camera Shooting

Don’t wait until you see a meteor to press the shutter. By then, it’s usually too late.

Instead, use an intervalometer or your camera’s built-in interval shooting feature to capture exposures continuously.

For example, taking 15-second exposures for an hour could produce approximately 240 photographs. Most won’t contain meteors, but you only need one good streak to create a memorable image.

A few additional tips:

  • Find dark skies: Avoid city lights whenever possible.
  • Focus carefully: Magnify a bright star in Live View and adjust manually.
  • Disable long-exposure noise reduction: This prevents lengthy pauses between photographs.
  • Include a foreground: Trees, mountains, or interesting landscapes make meteor photographs more compelling.

Don’t Miss This Evening Opportunity

The Draconids aren’t usually the most active meteor shower of the year, but their convenient timing makes them particularly appealing to photographers.

Head outside on the evening of October 8, set up your camera shortly after darkness falls, and let it capture a continuous sequence of exposures.

Even if you only photograph one meteor, a well-composed image beneath the October night sky can make the effort worthwhile.

For Further Training on Night Photography:

If you want a simple, field-ready way to master night photography, the Milky Way Photography Field Guide breaks it down step-by-step.

milky way guide

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tiistai 6. lokakuuta 2026

PictureCorrect.com: Airshow Preparation and Photography Tutorial

Airshows are a visual spectacle, showcasing the marvels of aviation, the skill of pilots, and the beauty of flight. For photographers, capturing these moments can be both challenging and rewarding. Here’s a comprehensive guide to help you prepare for an airshow and capture stunning photographs.

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airshow photo

Photo captured by Richard R. Schünemann; 78mm, f/13.0, 1/1500s, ISO 200

Pre-Airshow Preparation:

  • Research the Show: Before you head out, research the airshow. Know the schedule, the performers, and the types of aircraft that will be there. This will help you anticipate the action.
  • Check the Weather: Weather can greatly affect your shots. Overcast skies can offer soft, diffused lighting, while sunny days can create harsh shadows. Plan your settings accordingly.

Attending an airshow requires more than just your camera gear. Given the outdoor nature of these events and the loud noise from the aircraft, it’s essential to be well-prepared. Here’s a quick packing list to ensure you have everything you need:

Camera Gear:

  1. Camera: DSLR or mirrorless camera.
  2. Lenses: Telephoto lens (e.g., 70-200mm or 100-400mm) and a wide-angle lens.
  3. Memory Cards: Multiple high-capacity cards.
  4. Batteries: Spare batteries for your camera.
  5. Tripod/Monopod: Especially useful for heavy lenses.
  6. Camera Bag: To keep all your gear organized and protected.
  7. Lens Cleaning Kit: Dust and dirt can be a nuisance during outdoor events.

Personal Comfort and Safety:

  1. Ear Protection: Aircraft, especially jets, can be extremely loud. Consider earplugs or noise-canceling earmuffs.
  2. Hat: A wide-brimmed hat to shield your face and neck.
  3. Sunglasses: Preferably polarized to reduce glare.
  4. Sunblock: Broad-spectrum SPF 50 or higher. Remember to reapply every 2 hours.
  5. Lip Balm with SPF: Protect your lips from getting chapped or sunburned.
  6. Water Bottle: Staying hydrated is crucial, especially on hot days.
  7. Snacks: Energy bars or nuts can keep you energized.
  8. Comfortable Clothing: Wear layers so you can adjust to the temperature. Comfortable shoes are a must.
  9. Portable Chair or Blanket: If you plan to be there for the entire day, having something to sit on can be a relief.
  10. Backpack or Tote: To carry your personal items and any purchases from the event.
  11. First Aid Kit: Basic items like band-aids, pain relievers, and any personal medications.
  12. Cash and ID: Some vendors might not accept cards.

Optional but Useful:

  1. Binoculars: Get a closer look at distant aircraft or static displays.
  2. Notepad and Pen: Jot down details or sequences of the show.
  3. Portable Charger: For your phone or other electronic devices.

Remember, while it’s essential to be well-prepared, you don’t want to overburden yourself. Pack smart, prioritize based on your needs, and enjoy the airshow!

airshow photography

Photo captured by Abed Ismail; 24mm, f/5.6, 1/6400s, ISO 1250

On the Day:

  • Arrive Early: This allows you scout the location, check the light, and set up your equipment.
  • Choose Your Spot: Position yourself with the sun behind you to illuminate the aircraft. Consider the show’s center as most maneuvers are based around this point.
  • Stay Aware: Keep an ear out for announcements. They often provide cues about upcoming performances.

Photography Tips:

  • Shutter Speed: For propeller-driven aircraft, use a slower shutter speed (1/125s to 1/250s) to capture the motion of the propellers. For jets, you can use faster speeds (1/1000s or faster).
  • Aperture: An aperture of f/8 to f/11 will generally provide sharp images with a decent depth of field.
  • ISO: Keep it as low as possible for the best quality. Increase only if necessary.
  • Continuous Shooting Mode: This mode allows you to capture multiple frames in quick succession, ensuring you don’t miss any action.
  • Panning: To capture aircraft in motion, use a technique called panning. Move your camera to follow the aircraft, keeping it in the same position in your frame. This can create a sharp subject against a blurred background, emphasizing motion.
  • Focus: Use continuous or servo autofocus mode. This allows the camera to keep adjusting focus as the aircraft moves.
  • Composition: While it’s tempting to always zoom in on the aircraft, sometimes pulling back to include the environment (clouds, crowd, other aircraft) can create a more compelling image.
airshow capture

Photo captured by Daniel Klein; 400mm, f/11.0, 1/3200s, ISO 800

Post-Processing:

  • RAW Format: Shoot in RAW. This gives you more flexibility in post-processing.
  • Editing: Use software like Lightroom or Photoshop. Adjust exposure, contrast, sharpness, and saturation to bring out the best in your shots.
  • Noise Reduction: If you had to increase your ISO, use noise reduction tools to clean up your image.
  • Cropping: Sometimes, you can’t get as close as you’d like, or an aircraft might be positioned awkwardly in your frame. Cropping can help improve composition.

Respect Safety and Regulations:

Always follow the rules set by the airshow organizers. Stay in designated areas, listen to announcements, and respect barriers.

Airshow photography can be challenging, but with preparation and practice, you can capture breathtaking images. Remember to enjoy the experience, be patient, and keep experimenting with different settings and compositions. The sky’s the limit!

Want Consistently Tack-Sharp Photos?

Getting perfectly sharp images involves much more than simply using a tripod. Focus technique, shutter speed, aperture, camera stability, lens performance, and post-processing all play important roles.

Our new Tack Sharp Photography Guide walks you through a complete system for capturing consistently crisp, professional-looking photos in virtually any situation (currently 70% off today for a 🍂 Fall Focus Event).

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Inside, you’ll learn how to choose the right camera settings, master autofocus, eliminate camera shake, maximize lens sharpness, develop an efficient editing workflow, and prepare your photos for stunning prints. Whether you shoot landscapes, wildlife, travel, portraits, macro, or sports, the techniques apply to virtually every style of photography.

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