PictureCorrect.com: Do This and Your Bad Weather Photos Will Shine

Nothing is worse than going on vacation with your photo gear packed, and it rains the entire time!

This quick tip comes from The Bad Weather Photography Guide which is currently 75% off if you want to check it out.

I love taking vacations in the Pacific Northwest of the United States. It’s been my vacation destination for the last four years. Of course, I’m virtually guaranteed that it’s going to be raining.

I live in Minnesota, a midwestern state in the US. In my area, there’s snow on the ground at least six to eight months out of the year.

Yeah. When it comes to bad weather photography, I’m something of an expert.

Photograph #1 by Kent DuFault “Minnesota Blizzard”

Shooting photos in lousy weather goes against a critical photography lesson that we all learn from the beginning.

“Look for the light.”

In bad weather, chances are there won’t be any light

I’ve learned that there’s an essential tool for producing fabulous bad weather pictures.

I want to share my discovery with you today in this Quick Tip so you can avoid the headaches that I endured, and you won’t feel compelled to put your camera away when the weather turns sour.

Photograph #2 by Kent DuFault “Black Hills, South Dakota”

Over a holiday weekend, I drove a total of 23 hours to spend one day taking pictures at the Mount Rushmore National Monument.

It rained the entire time.

I used the Quick Tip that I’m about to share with you, and it turned a potential disaster into a gem.

Photograph #3 by Kent DuFault “North Shore Lake Superior”

One of the best ways to overcome a photographic difficulty is to dissect what’s happening and correct it.

In bad weather, you can expect…

√ A lack of lighting.
√ Low contrast due to a lack of lighting.
√ A lack of color.
√ Obscured backgrounds due to haze, mist, and or other precipitation.

Here’s your Quick Tip!

When taking pictures in bad weather, place an object of interest in the foreground near the camera.

This object works best when it’s colorful, has an unusual shape, or is a light source.

Photo #1 has a bright foreground color.

Photo #2 has a bright foreground color and an unusual shape.

Photo #3 has a bright foreground color, unusual shapes, and it includes a light source.

An object of foreground interest defeats the problems created by bad weather!

Photograph #4 by Kent DuFault “Blue Door in a Snow Storm”

When using this bad weather technique, even the most mundane objects can become a visual treat.

Photograph #5 by Kent DuFault “Autumn Snowstorm”

Bright color in the foreground can help give the illusion of lighting and contrast.

You can also accentuate that illusion with some deft post-processing effects.

Remember, don’t put your camera away on a bad weather day!

Bad weather can really add drama to your pictures, mainly when you include something of interest in the foreground!

About the Author:
Kent DuFault is an author and photographer with over 35 years of experience. He’s currently the director of content at the online photography school, Photzy.com.

For Further Training:

When the weather turns sour… most of us tend to stay inside. But poor weather actually brings some of the greatest photography opportunities that you will ever get a chance to shoot. If you want to learn some new outdoor photography techniques – effective even when faced with clouds, rain, and lousy light – then you may want to check out this in-depth guide on the topic while it is on sale.

New: Top Photography in Bad Weather Guide (Click to Learn More)

It is currently 75% off. The concepts discussed in this eBook can help you under any circumstances when creating outdoor photography. But in particular, they will provide essential guidelines for creating top level images under inclement weather conditions.

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PictureCorrect.com: How to Photograph Traffic Streaks

Capturing the dynamic motion of traffic streaks can transform an ordinary cityscape into a vibrant, energetic scene. These streaks, created by the movement of vehicles’ lights during long exposures, can add a sense of motion and drama to your photographs. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to photograph traffic streaks effectively.

Reminder: only a little while left for the Long Exposure Guide Autumn Afterglow Sale

1. Equipment You’ll Need

• Camera: A DSLR or mirrorless camera with manual mode capability.
• Tripod: Essential for stabilizing your camera during long exposures.
• Wide-angle lens: Ideal for capturing expansive cityscapes.
• Remote shutter release: To avoid camera shake when pressing the shutter.
• Neutral Density (ND) filter: Useful for longer exposures in brighter conditions.

2. Choosing the Right Location

• Overpasses and Bridges: These provide an elevated perspective, allowing you to capture the flow of traffic below.
• Busy Streets: Opt for streets with a consistent flow of traffic to ensure continuous light trails.
• Landmarks: Incorporating recognizable landmarks can add context and interest to your shot.

3. Camera Settings

• Mode: Switch to Manual mode (M) for complete control.
• Aperture: Use a small aperture (f/8 to f/16) for a deeper depth of field.
• Shutter Speed: Start with a 10-30 second exposure and adjust based on the traffic speed and desired streak length.
• ISO: Keep it low (ISO 100 or 200) to reduce noise.
• Focus: Use manual focus. Autofocus might struggle in low light. Focus on a point where the traffic will be, or use a distant light or landmark.

4. Shooting Techniques

• Time of Day: Blue hour, the period just after sunset or before sunrise, is ideal. The ambient light balances with the traffic lights, creating a harmonious blend.
• Composition: Use the rule of thirds, leading lines, and other compositional techniques to guide the viewer’s eye.
• Multiple Exposures: Take several shots and blend them in post-processing for denser light trails or to remove unwanted elements.

Photo captured by Joey Kyber

5. Post-Processing Tips

• Blending: Use software like Photoshop to blend multiple exposures for a composite image with richer light trails.
• Noise Reduction: Long exposures can introduce noise. Use noise reduction tools to clean up the image.
• Contrast and Saturation: Boosting these can make the light trails pop and give the image a more dynamic feel.
• Sharpening: Apply subtle sharpening to enhance details without introducing artifacts.

6. Challenges and Solutions

• Interrupted Light Trails: If a vehicle stops or changes lanes, it can break the light trail. Solution: Use multiple exposures and blend them for continuous trails.
• Overexposed Highlights: Bright areas, like streetlights, can become overexposed. Solution: Use an ND filter or blend exposures in post-processing.
• Camera Shake: Even slight movements can blur the image. Solution: Use a sturdy tripod and a remote shutter release.

7. Safety First

Always prioritize safety. If you’re on an overpass, bridge, or busy street, be aware of your surroundings. Avoid obstructing traffic or putting yourself in a dangerous position.

Photographing traffic streaks can be a rewarding experience, turning the mundane into the extraordinary. With the right equipment, settings, and techniques, you can capture the pulsating energy of city life in a single frame. So, venture out during the blue hour, set up your gear, and let the city’s lights paint your canvas.

For Further Training:

Some of the most breathtaking photographs reveal something the human eye can never see: the movement of time. Our new Long Exposure Photography Guide & Cheat Sheets (currently 70% off today for our Autumn Afterglow Sale) walks you through everything from choosing ND filters and camera settings to photographing waterfalls, oceans, clouds, and nighttime scenes.

You’ll also learn how to avoid common mistakes and edit your long exposure photographs for professional-looking results.

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PictureCorrect.com: The 10-Second Smartphone Photo Editing Trick

You don’t need expensive editing software or advanced photography skills to dramatically improve your smartphone photos. Sometimes, just three small adjustments can turn an ordinary snapshot into something much more polished.

And the best part? You can do it in about 10 seconds using the editing tools already on your phone.

Relevant: only a little while left for the Smartphone Photography Guide Fall Capture Sale

The Three-Slider Trick

The secret is to adjust Highlights, Shadows, and Contrast in that order. These three controls work together to bring out details and give your photos a more balanced, professional appearance.

Here’s how to do it:

Step 1: Lower the Highlights (-20 to -40)

Open a photo in your phone’s editing app and find the Highlights slider. Move it to the left.

This reduces the brightness of the lightest areas in your image, helping reveal detail in bright skies, white clouds, and sunlit surfaces that might otherwise look washed out.

It’s especially useful for travel photos and outdoor scenes photographed in strong sunlight.

Step 2: Raise the Shadows (+15 to +35)

Next, find the Shadows slider and move it slightly to the right.

This brightens darker areas without increasing the brightness of the entire image. Details hidden beneath trees, inside buildings, or on people’s faces can become more visible.

Be careful not to push this too far. Excessive shadow recovery can make photos look flat or reveal unwanted noise.

Step 3: Add a Little Contrast (+5 to +15)

Finally, increase Contrast just slightly.

After lowering highlights and raising shadows, your photo may look a little flat. Adding a touch of contrast restores depth and gives the image a more finished appearance.

The key is subtlety. You want your photo to look naturally better, not obviously edited.

Why This Works So Well

Smartphone cameras are remarkably capable, but automatic processing doesn’t always produce the ideal balance between bright and dark areas.

A sunny landscape, for example, might have a beautiful sky but dark foreground details. Brightening the entire photo could wash out the sky even further.

By adjusting highlights and shadows separately, you gain more control over the image’s tonal range. A small contrast adjustment then helps maintain a sense of depth.

These changes won’t recover details that were completely clipped when the photo was taken, but they can make a noticeable difference in many everyday images.

One Extra Trick: Compare Before and After

Before saving, press and hold your photo in the editing app if it supports a before-and-after preview.

Look closely at the difference. Are the clouds more detailed? Can you see more in the shadows? Does the image still look natural?

If the edit feels too strong, reduce the adjustments slightly.

Remember, the goal isn’t to make your photo look edited. It’s to make the original scene look its best.

Try It on Your Next Photo

The next time you take a landscape, travel photo, or outdoor portrait, spend just 10 seconds experimenting with these three sliders.

Start with Highlights -30, Shadows +20, and Contrast +10, then adjust to taste. These are starting points, not universal settings, and some photos may need very little adjustment.

You might be surprised how much improvement you can achieve without filters, presets, or complicated editing techniques.

For Further Training:

The Fall Capture Sale on the Smartphone Photography Guide is wrapping up soon, and it’s a great chance to finally unlock what your phone camera can really do.

The guide walks through real, usable techniques—manual controls, motion blur, low-light shooting, and creative effects—so you’re not just relying on auto mode and luck. If this post helped, the guide goes much deeper.

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PictureCorrect.com: How to Focus Accurately with a 10-Stop ND Filter

A 10-stop neutral density (ND) filter can transform moving water into a silky blur, smooth out ocean waves, or turn passing clouds into dramatic streaks. But there’s one frustrating problem: your camera may struggle to focus once the filter is attached.

That’s because a 10-stop ND filter reduces the light entering your lens by approximately 99.9%. Even in daylight, your camera’s autofocus system may struggle to see enough detail to lock onto a subject.

Fortunately, there’s a simple technique that makes focusing with strong ND filters much more reliable.

Reminder: offer ending soon for the Long Exposure Field Guide Autumn Afterglow Sale

The Secret: Focus Before Attaching the Filter

The most dependable approach is to establish focus before the ND filter blocks the light.

Here’s the process:

1. Compose your shot without the ND filter. Mount your camera on a tripod and frame the scene exactly how you want it.
2. Focus on your subject. Use autofocus or magnified live view to focus precisely on the important part of your composition.
3. Switch to manual focus. Once focus is confirmed, switch your lens or camera to manual focus so the camera won’t attempt to refocus.
4. Attach your 10-stop ND filter. Carefully screw on or slide in the filter without touching the focusing ring.
5. Calculate your new shutter speed. A 10-stop filter requires approximately 1,024 times the original exposure time.
6. Take the photograph. Use a remote shutter release or self-timer to minimize camera movement.

For example, if your correct shutter speed without the filter is 1/125 second, adding a 10-stop ND filter increases the exposure to approximately 8 seconds.

What About Back-Button Focus?

If you use back-button autofocus, you already have an advantage. Once you’ve focused using the AF-ON button, you can release it and take the photograph without triggering autofocus again, provided your camera is configured to separate focusing from the shutter button.

This eliminates the need to switch between autofocus and manual focus for every exposure.

However, be careful not to accidentally press AF-ON after attaching the filter.

Can You Focus Through a 10-Stop ND Filter?

Sometimes! Modern mirrorless cameras with sensitive autofocus systems can occasionally focus through strong ND filters, particularly in bright conditions.

But reliability depends on the camera, lens, available light, and contrast in the scene.

If autofocus begins hunting back and forth, don’t waste time fighting it. Remove the filter, establish focus, and reattach it.

A useful trick: If you’re using manual focus, magnify your camera’s live view display to 5x or 10x before attaching the filter. This makes it easier to confirm sharpness on distant buildings, rocks, or other stationary subjects.

Photo captured with a 10 stop ND filter and a 30 second shutter by Benjamin R.

Don’t Make This Common Mistake

One of the easiest ways to ruin a long exposure is to accidentally change focus while installing the ND filter.

This is especially common with screw-on filters because twisting the filter can also move the lens’s focusing ring.

After attaching the filter, check that the focus ring hasn’t shifted. On some mirrorless cameras, you can also verify the focus distance using the camera’s distance scale.

For lenses with electronic focus-by-wire systems, remember that switching the camera off or changing certain settings may reset the focus position.

Bonus Tip: Focus Stacking Isn’t Always Necessary

Landscape photographers sometimes assume they need to focus at infinity for every long exposure. But that isn’t always the best choice.

If your composition includes foreground rocks, a waterfall, or other nearby elements, focusing at infinity may leave those details soft.

Instead, choose an appropriate focus distance and aperture to achieve the depth of field you need. For many landscapes, f/8 or f/11 is a useful starting point, although the ideal setting depends on your lens and composition.

If both very close foreground objects and distant scenery must be perfectly sharp, focus stacking can help—but moving water and clouds may complicate blending the exposures.

Final Thoughts

A 10-stop ND filter doesn’t have to make focusing difficult. The key is to focus first, lock your focus, and attach the filter afterward.

This simple habit can save you from discovering that a carefully composed 60-second exposure is completely out of focus.

And when you’re working with long exposures, getting the focus right before pressing the shutter can save a surprising amount of time.

Pro tip: Before beginning a series of long exposures, take one quick test shot without the ND filter and zoom in to confirm sharpness. It’s much better to discover a focusing mistake in a fraction of a second than after waiting several minutes for an exposure.

Want to Master Long Exposure Photography?

Nailing focus is only part of the process. Our new Long Exposure Photography Guide & Cheat Sheets (currently 70% off today for our Autumn Afterglow Sale) walks you through everything from choosing ND filters and camera settings to photographing waterfalls, oceans, clouds, and nighttime scenes.

You’ll also learn how to avoid common mistakes and edit your long exposure photographs for professional-looking results.

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PictureCorrect.com: Sharper, Cleaner Photos for Half the Price

If you’ve been thinking about improving your photos with AI-powered editing tools, Topaz Labs has just announced a special promotion: 50% off Topaz Photo Today.

Topaz Photo is designed to help photographers rescue difficult images and bring out details that might otherwise be lost. Whether you’re dealing with noisy night photos, slightly blurry shots, or older images that need restoration, the software offers several powerful enhancement tools.

What Can Topaz Photo Do?

• Sharpen blurry photos: Recover detail and improve image clarity.
• Remove noise: Clean up high-ISO images, especially those captured in low light.
• Upscale images: Increase photo resolution while preserving and enhancing details.
• Restore old photographs: Improve the quality of aging or damaged images.

Topaz Photo Sale Pricing

For a limited time, photographers can save 50% with these subscription options:

• Monthly Plan: Normally $39/month, now $19.50/month for the first three months.
• Annual Plan (Billed Monthly): Normally $25/month, now $12.50/month for the first three months.
• Annual Plan (Paid Upfront): Normally $199/year, now just $99 for the first year.

Is It Worth Trying?

Topaz Photo can be particularly useful for wildlife, landscape, travel, and night photographers who occasionally capture images that need a little extra help.

While no software can perfectly rescue every blurry or noisy photograph, Topaz Photo can make a noticeable difference in many challenging situations.

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PictureCorrect.com: Orionid Meteor Shower Peaks This Week: Best Camera Settings

Every October, Earth passes through debris left behind by Halley’s Comet, creating one of autumn’s most interesting night sky events: the Orionid meteor shower.

This year’s shower peaks around October 21–22, 2026, with approximately 10–20 meteors per hour possible under ideal dark skies.

There’s one challenge this year: a bright Moon will make fainter meteors difficult to see. Your best opportunity will be during the early morning hours, particularly after the Moon sets.

Related: deal ending soon for the Milky Way Photo Guide Clear Skies Sale

Best Camera Settings for the Orionids

You don’t need specialized equipment. A DSLR or mirrorless camera, wide-angle lens, and sturdy tripod are ideal.

Try these starting settings:

• Shooting Mode: Manual
• Aperture: f/1.8–f/2.8
• Shutter Speed: 10–20 seconds
• ISO: 1600–6400
• Lens: 14–24mm wide-angle (full-frame equivalent)
• Focus: Manual, focused on a bright star
• File Format: RAW
• Drive Mode: Continuous interval shooting

Adjust your exposure based on sky brightness and your camera’s capabilities.

Where Should You Point Your Camera?

The Orionids appear to originate near the constellation Orion, but here’s a little-known photography trick: don’t point your camera directly at Orion.

Meteors photographed farther from the shower’s radiant often produce longer, more dramatic streaks. Try aiming approximately 45–90 degrees away from Orion.

Including a mountain, tree, or other interesting foreground can make your photograph even more compelling.

The Secret: Keep Shooting

Meteor photography is largely a numbers game. You never know exactly when or where a shooting star will appear.

Set your camera to take continuous 15-second exposures using an intervalometer. Over two hours, you could capture hundreds of photographs, dramatically increasing your chances of catching a meteor.

Important tip: Turn off long-exposure noise reduction if your camera pauses after each photograph to process a dark frame. Otherwise, you could miss half the action!

A Few Final Tips

• Escape city lights. Dark skies make faint meteors much easier to capture.
• Focus carefully. Magnify a bright star in live view and manually focus until it’s sharp.
• Bring extra batteries. Long shooting sessions can drain them quickly.
• Check every frame. Some meteors are easy to overlook on your camera’s small screen.

If you capture several meteors from the same location, you can even combine the photographs into a dramatic composite image.

The Orionids offer a special opportunity to photograph tiny fragments of Halley’s Comet burning through Earth’s atmosphere.

Mark October 21–22 on your calendar, find a dark location, and let your camera capture the show!

For Further Training:

If you want a simple, field-ready way to master night photography, the Milky Way Photography Field Guide breaks it down step-by-step.

Right now, it’s part of our Clear Skies Sale—timed perfectly for the months when most photographers start planning their Milky Way shoots.

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PictureCorrect.com: Life and Pay as a Cruise Ship Photographer

Imagine getting paid to travel the Caribbean, Mediterranean, or Alaska while photographing people on vacation. That’s the appeal of becoming a cruise ship photographer. But behind the scenic destinations and smiling passengers is a demanding job that combines photography, customer service, and sales.

So how much do cruise ship photographers actually earn, and what is the job really like?

Related note: only a little while left for the Earn Money with Photography Autumn Sale

What Does a Cruise Ship Photographer Do?

Cruise ships can carry thousands of passengers, creating a constant demand for vacation portraits.

Photographers typically work at several locations throughout the ship:

• Embarkation: Photographing passengers as they board.
• Formal nights: Taking professional portraits of couples and families dressed for dinner.
• Ports of call: Capturing passengers as they arrive at destinations.
• Dining rooms: Photographing families and groups during meals.
• Private sessions: Offering more personalized portrait experiences.

The work is fast-paced. During a busy formal night, a photographer might photograph dozens of families using a carefully arranged lighting setup and a series of repeatable poses.

Unlike traditional portrait photography, there’s rarely time for lengthy creative sessions.

How Much Do Cruise Ship Photographers Earn?

Cruise ship photographers generally receive a base salary, sometimes supplemented by sales commissions or performance bonuses.

Entry-level positions may pay roughly $1,000–$2,000 per month, while experienced photographers, managers, and premium portrait specialists may earn more. Actual compensation varies considerably by cruise line, employer, and contract.

One major advantage is that accommodation and meals are typically provided onboard, allowing photographers to save much of their income if they keep personal expenses low.

However, photographers may work seven days a week during contracts lasting several months. Evening shifts, long hours, and limited personal space are common tradeoffs.

The Surprising Importance of Sales Skills

One of the biggest misconceptions about cruise ship photography is that the job is primarily about taking pictures.

In reality, selling photographs can be a major part of the work.

Passengers might pay $20–$35 for an individual image or spend hundreds of dollars on larger packages. Photographers and sales staff may be expected to encourage purchases, explain packages, and meet sales targets.

Some employers offer commissions or bonuses based on photography sales.

This means a photographer with excellent people skills and an ability to sell may earn more than someone with stronger technical photography skills but little interest in retail sales.

What Equipment Do They Use?

Cruise photographers typically work with professional DSLR or mirrorless cameras, external flashes, studio strobes, softboxes, and portable backdrops.

Much of the equipment is supplied by the employer, although policies vary.

The emphasis is on consistency and efficiency rather than artistic experimentation. Photographers must quickly produce flattering, properly exposed images under changing conditions.

Formal-night portrait stations, for example, often use standardized lighting and camera settings so photographers can move through large numbers of passengers efficiently.

Is It a Good Photography Career?

Cruise photography can be an interesting entry point for photographers who want professional experience without building their own client base.

The advantages include extensive portrait practice, international travel, provided accommodation, and experience working with customers from different backgrounds.

The disadvantages are equally important: long working hours, modest starting compensation, repetitive assignments, and pressure to meet sales goals.

For someone hoping to become a wedding or portrait photographer, however, the experience can be valuable. Few photography jobs provide the opportunity to photograph so many different people in such a short period.

The Bottom Line

Cruise ship photographers aren’t usually earning thousands of dollars from individual portrait sessions. They’re part of a high-volume photography operation where speed, consistency, and salesmanship matter.

The job might not be as glamorous as the destinations suggest, but it offers something unusual: the opportunity to earn a living with a camera while traveling the world, with many everyday living expenses covered.

For photographers who enjoy working with people, don’t mind a demanding schedule, and want to develop their portrait skills quickly, it can be a fascinating career path.

For Further Help & Resources:

This in-depth bundle has helped thousands of photographers turn their passion into profit—and here it’s at its lowest price ever to start the Autumn season .

Packed with proven strategies in all types of photography and even printable contract templates you can use with clients right away, it’s your shortcut to making money with photography.

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