PictureCorrect.com: How to Use a DSLR Camera Infographic

When you use a DSLR camera for the first time, it’s natural to be intimated by the sheer number of buttons and options. The manual might seem too thick to read and you’re likely to flick to auto mode. It might take you some time to make the most out of your DSLR, but you don’t have to wait too long to understand the basics. This infographic sums up all you need to know to get started:

DSLR Camera Ultimate Guide (Click image to see full size.)

Infographic kindly provided by 10HighTech.

Shooting Modes

You should begin with the shooting modes. You will most likely find them on a circular dial where you will see options such as Auto, A-Dep, M, Av, Tv, P, etc.

Priority Modes

Av or A (Aperture Priority)

Aperture changes the depth of field and it is measured in f-stops. For instance, f/22 indicates smaller aperture as compared to f/2. A small aperture is used for shooting a large depth of field, such as shooting a mountain from a distance. A large aperture is used for a small depth of field, such as shooting a small insect or a flower.

Tv or S (Shutter Priority)

Shutter speed indicates the amount of time the shutter remains open to capture the light. If you choose a longer shutter speed, more light will pass to the sensor. A short shutter speed is useful when you want to freeze a fast moving subject. A long shutter speed adds a sense of movement and blurs moving subjects.

P (Program)

In this mode, you set either the aperture or shutter and the camera adjusts the other one accordingly to maintain a technically correct exposure.

Manual Mode

You can have complete control over the exposure, shutter speed and aperture.

ISO

ISO is an indication of the sensitivity of the sensor of your camera to the light. It is measured from ISO 100 to ISO 6400. ISO 100 is the lower sensitivity and 6400 is the higher. Shooting with higher sensitivity, such as ISO 6400 or ISO 3200, is useful in low light conditions. During a bright sunny day, shooting with low ISO, such as ISO 100 or 200, can be done.

Exposure Triangle

There are three factors that influence the exposure, ISO, shutter speed, and aperture. You have to adjust the settings to achieve the right balance. For instance, say you’re currently shooting with the following settings:

• ISO: 400
• Aperture:  f/8
• Shutter Speed: 1/10 of a second

Now, if you want to reduce the depth of field to shoot a smaller object and increase the aperture, you change the aperture to f/4. You will increase the amount of light entering the camera by a factor of 4.

To balance the exposure, you can do the following:

• Reduce the shutter speed by a factor of 4 (i.e., 1/40 of a second).
• Reduce ISO by a factor of 4 (i.e., ISO 100).
• Reduce shutter speed by a factor of 2 and reduce ISO by a factor of 2 as well.

Metering Modes

While using the automatic exposure calculation, the camera tries to calculate the average exposure. It is called metering. It assesses the entire scene and sets an exposure so that all the tones in the frame average to 18% grey which is called middle grey.

Average

The camera assesses all the tones from corner to corner and averages it to 18% grey.

Center-Weighted

The camera ignores the corners of the image and weighs the exposure reading in the center to cover 80% of the area approximately.

Spot Metering

The camera uses a very small area of the screen, such as a circle in the center to make the assessment.

Exposure Compensation

You will most likely find a +/- button near the shutter. You can use this button to adjust the meter reading of the camera to compensate for the exposure. For instance, if you are shooting a very bright scene and the camera averages it to 18% grey, the result will be darker than what you expected it to be. You can compensate for it positively and get a brighter image as a result.

Focus

DSLR cameras offer a range of autofocus modes. You must understand about the two most important ones, AF-S and AF-C.

AF-S (Autofocus Single)

It is used while shooting stationary objects.

AF-C (Autofocus Continuous)

It is used while shooting moving objects.

Focus Point

When you shoot with a DSLR, you will find a number of dots on the screen. After half-pressing, the shutter, one of these points will turn red which is the active focus point.

White Balance

The white balance impacts the color tones of the photographs. These are the common presets for white balance.

Tungsten

It is used for shooting indoors, such as with incandescent lights.

Fluorescent

While shooting indoors, it compensates for the blue-green hues from fluorescent lights.

Daylight

It is used under bright light conditions, such as sunny days.

Flash

It adds a little warmth to the image.

Cloudy

It adds warmth to daylight images shot during cloudy days.

Shade

It adds a little warmth to images shot in shaded areas.

You can set the white balance manually and determine the right color balance.

File Size and Type

You can choose to save the captured images as RAW files or JPEG files. JPEG files are compressed and processed by the camera. RAW files are stored without processing and compressing. They contain a lot of raw data that can be used to improve the image during post-processing.

That’s the basics to get you started. Using manual mode will help you gain a much better understanding of your camera and how it works.

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PictureCorrect.com: Tips & Hints to Develop Your Photography Skill

Many people are interested in photography but are unsure if they have the skills to become good at it. It is important to keep in mind that it is especially helpful to learn anything and everything possible about setting up your shot. This article will give you a few tips and hints to improve your photography skills.

Photo by Fredrik Holmberg; ISO 100, f/5.6, 1/250-second exposure.

• Understand that smiling photographs aren’t the only kind of pictures. Real stories are told when people are allowed to express themselves authentically. The most memorable photographs in history are those that tell stories and convey emotions, such as “Migrant Mother” or “Vietnam Napalm.” No matter if your pictures change someone’s life or are simply an everyday happening, the emotions should be nothing less than real.

Dorothea Lange’s “Migrant Mother” (via flickr/U.S. Embassy The Hague)

Photo by Sandeepachetan; ISO 100, f/2.8, 1/1000-second exposure.

• Learn to properly hold your camera. If you do not hold the camera steady, your picture will not come out perfectly. Make sure that your arms remain next to your body while the cameras lens is supported by both of your hands.

Photo by Thomas Hawk; ISO 100, f/5.6, 1/50-second exposure.

• • Figure out the best blend of aperture, ISO, and shutter speed. That combination will decide your picture’s exposure. It is possible to use overexposed photos in some cases, but generally these should be avoided. Try experimenting with these features, and see how they interact together and what combinations you like.
  • A silhouette can look lovely in any picture. A number of methods exist for silhouette creation, but a lot of photographers just use sunsets. If the difference in lighting between the subject and background is significant, with the background being brighter, it will create a silhouette. Create a silhouette shot by putting your subject in front of a sunny window or by setting up a flash off-camera, behind the subject.

Photo by Leo Hidalgo; ISO 400, 1/160-second exposure.

• Choose to set your own white balance manually. Cameras often set the white balance themselves, but if you want the most control, do it yourself. If you change the white balance, you can remove yellow tints that are caused by certain light bulbs or your can change the mood.
• Share only your very best, most interesting shots. Just because you took 1,000 photos does not mean you need to share each and every one.
• A tripod is a must if you want high quality pictures. Even small movements can affect your images, particularly if the subjects are in motion or the photographs are being taken at a low shutter speed The little bit of money spent on a tripod can remove the blur that can occur in your images. A quality tripod will make your pictures much more professional looking.
• Write down interesting spots to photograph. Occasionally you will be without your camera and you will run across a great, photogenic place. Just make a note to return there later when you have your camera. If you carry a small pad in your pocket or purse, you can write down the details of your location so that you will have an easier time remembering it.

Photo by Chad McDonald.

• A faster shutter speed is needed when taking photos in low level lighting. This prevents blurs from showing up on your pictures. Experiment with settings in the 1/200 to 1/250 of a second range.
• Always start out by holding your camera at your subject’s eye level. This gives the picture personality that will draw people into it. If young ones are your focus, then don’t hesitate to put yourself in their line of view by getting down on your knees or stooping to their height.

Photo by Amanda Tipton.

You can apply these tips to help you succeed at your photographic ventures. But this article can help only if you apply what you have learned to your photography sessions.

About the Author:
David Lupica is a wedding photographer in San Diego California (san-diego-wedding-photographer dot net). Wedding photography combines both an artistic and a journalist approach to the art, and it’s vitally important to be well versed in both.

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PictureCorrect.com: How to Make a Crowd Disappear from a Photo (Without Photoshop!)

For street photographers, few obstacles are as difficult to work around as crowds. No matter the hour, there’s sure to be someone walking through your periphery. And more often than not, passersby can seriously disrupt a composition. However, most photographers can’t exactly shut down a street in order to snag a shot.

Luckily, photographer David Bergman has a way of solving this issue in camera—no Photoshop required:

The trick?

Slow down your shutter speed.

Often times, photographers working during the day opt to keep their shutter speeds short and sweet in order to get a properly exposed image. However, doing so effectively freezes crowds in place.

Slowing down the shutter speed allows the crowd and other active objects in the frame to retain some degree of movement and flow. The longer the shutter remains open, the less distinct figures in the composition become. After just a few seconds, people walking through the frame begin to disappear entirely.

1/200 second

1/5 second

5 seconds

Of course, it’s necessary to adjust your settings to compensate for using a slower shutter speed. In order to avoid over exposing your images, lower you ISO and close down your aperture. It may also be wise to use an ND filter to cut down on the amount of light hitting the sensor. In addition, as with any long exposure photograph, it’s important to keep the camera stable while the exposure is in progress. Bring along a tripod to secure the camera and attach a cable release to avoid unnecessary camera shake.

So the next time you want to get rid of some of the hustle and bustle to make a photograph, you don’t have to wait around for the crowds to dissipate. Instead, try this simple adjustment and see for yourself the difference it can make!

For further training: The Long Exposure Photography Guide

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NASA Astronomy Picture of the Day: Sun Halo over Sweden

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PictureCorrect.com: Developing Your Eye for Photography

Although there is much pleasure to be derived from taking a technically excellent photograph, there is a strong argument that a truly great shot depends most on your eye.

Look at the photographs you see every day in magazines, the press, or on display in a gallery. The shots you really take note of are the unexpected–the ones that catch a moment that could have been unnoticed and missed forever.

Photo by Flugflugfunmangel; ISO 100, f/9.9, 1/125-second exposure.

So for most beginning–but serious–photographers, you need to work at developing your eye.

Most of us–and probably all of us who hanker after taking a memorable photograph–can recognize a great view or a breathtaking sight. After all, this is why there are scenic routes, lookout points, and sightseeing trips all over the world. However, how many of the photographs taken at such set opportunities fail to grab you in the same way that the actual scene does? Often it’s because the picture has a clichéd air to it: it’s the same view of the same scene that a thousand other photographers have snapped before.

Look for an aspect of a shot that others will have missed. A different angle, something incongruous that only you have noticed, a certain shadow… Quite often this happens by accident, and you only see how good or how average your photograph is when you upload it and start editing. So take multiple shots in each session, and then study them critically to see how cropping, adjusting the colors and other editing techniques can turn an ordinary photograph into a great one.

Photo by John Getchel; ISO 100, f/8.0, 1/125-second exposure.

You also need to develop your ability to look at ordinary scenes with a fresh eye, to spot the beautiful or unexpected in ordinary surroundings. Heading for a well-known beauty spot is in itself clichéd, and unlikely to produce a memorable picture. However, how many people take photographs around the place you live? How many people take photographs on your street?

Photo by Andrew Sutherland; ISO 100, f/16.0, 8-second exposure.

Look local, get out and about in your area, finding the less well-trodden path the over-looked backwater, and see what your eyes are showing you. Remember to change your viewpoint; as shots taken low down or looking down are often the most dramatic and unusual. Look up too, as it amazes me how many people just look around themselves at eye level, never spotting the architecture and life that is going on above their head.

Photo by Dávid Sterbik; ISO 100, f/3.1, 1/85-second exposure.

Once you have found the sort of photography that means the most to you, whether that is landscape, action, wildlife, urban, macro or portraiture, you can learn more about the techniques and equipment need to take better and better shots. Your eye and your ability to see a good shot come first.

About the Author:
Margaret Cranford (alecarte dot com) is a photographed based in Clevedon, North Somerset in the UK (http://ift.tt/OOobQB). She creates and sources watercolour paintings, photographs and prints.

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PictureCorrect.com: Interesting Photo of the Day: Evil Alligator Eyes

The Florida Everglades can be pretty scary. You never know what’s lurking in and beyond the marshy water, and even when you can’t see them, you know there are predatory, powerful alligators watching you from somewhere. But at night, the eeriness runs deeper, especially when you see something like this—a terrifying, fire-eyed alligator staring you down:

“Alligator Eyeshine #7” by Larry Lynch (Via Imgur. Click image to see full size.)

Wildlife photographer Larry Lynch captured this image of an alligator in Myakka River State Park, FL. The animal’s eyes are highly reflective and the light burning in them was a reflection of the camera’s flash. The effect is both staggeringly beautiful and absolutely terrifying.

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PictureCorrect.com: The Ultimate Shooting Checklist to Avoid Common Photography Mistakes

Have you ever worked through an entire shoot never realizing that you had the ISO set to 3200? Or have you made the mistake of not changing back after having taken a group shot with a shutter timer delay? If you, like most photographers, are guilty of such mistakes, here is a valuable checklist to help you out:

Aimed at beginners, but equally applicable to photographers of any level, this video tutorial highlights the most common mistakes that photographers make and shows you how to eradicate them from your system.

“… I have developed a shooting checklist that helps me take the best possible photos. Now, this list won’t necessarily make you a better photographer, but it will prevent you from making the same painful mistakes I have, and it will stop you from screwing up that great shot right in front of you. –Joshua Cripps”

The Ultimate Shooting Checklist to Avoid Painful Mistakes

• Make sure that the batteries are charged and your memory cards are freshly formatted.
• Carry at least one spare battery and memory card in your bag.
• Ensure that your camera is set to shoot RAW. After all, why give up on the opportunity to correct for some weird mistakes that you might commit during the shoot?

Set the picture quality to RAW to give yourself some leverage during post-processing.

• Set the picture size to large.
• Select the right shooting mode, (aperture priority, manual, etc.) and the right shot type (continuous, single-shot, mirror lock-up, etc.)
• Once the composition is right, ensure that the tripod legs are secure, the ball-head is tight, and the quick release plate is firmly in place.
• Pay attention to the point of focus and the depth of field.
• Clean the front element of the lens and any filter to free it from dust, water drops, etc.
• Make it a habit to clean the rear element of the lens and the sensor regularly.
•  During the shoot, always make a point to check the histogram for signs of under- and over-exposure.
• Keep an eye out for highlight warnings (also known as “blinkies”).

“Blinkies” are an indication of blow out highlights.

• Use exposure bracketing in conditions where it is impossible to nail the shot in a single frame.
• When looking at the images on the LCD screen, zoom in to ensure there are no distracting elements.
• When shooting into the sun (especially important when you are shooting during the golden hour) lens flare can pop up. Use your hand, cap, or anything else to block out the offending light source.
• Keep changing the composition to get a different perspective of the scene.
• Linger for just enough time to ensure that you have everything covered. You never know what new perspective the changing light can bring.

And, if you are going to literally take Cripps’ advice literally, break into an impromptu jig after your successful shoot!

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