PictureCorrect.com: Tips for Sharper Photos with Smartphones

Over the past few years, we’ve seen some dramatic improvements in the quality of smartphone cameras on the market. Today, we have handsets with large lenses, 10x capabilities, and even 40-megapixel resolution. As a result, more and more people are now taking snapshots using their handy mobile devices. A recent Pew Internet survey on mobile usage revealed that 82 percent of people use their smart devices to capture images.

“iPhone Photography” captured by AshtonPal

Although they’re convenient to use, smartphones are still not as powerful as DSLRs or high-end point-and-shoot digital cameras. When not properly utilized, images can be rendered blurry and low-quality. To enhance the photos, people often resort to editing the output afterwards either through using an app or using Photoshop on their computer.

While I have no problem with enhancing images through editing, I still believe that your unedited photos should be near-perfect regardless of your mobile camera’s specifications. Here are some tips on how you can naturally improve the quality of your mobile photographs:

Use The Hold And Release Trick

Have you experienced getting blurry photographs no matter how you hold your device? Hitting the virtual camera icon on your screen disregards the phone’s automatic focus. Unless your phone is equipped with continuous Optical Image Stabilization (OIS), the device will still perceive a slight shake as you take the shot. One of the widely used strategies to combat this is to tap the portion of the screen that lets you focus on the subject before hitting the phone’s shutter. Kenna Kloseterman of creativeLIVE, shared another trick: the hold & release tactic. Simply point at your desired frame and hold the camera icon/button down for a second or two before releasing. It automatically focuses and captures the subject with lesser risk of shakes.

Get Close To Your Subject

One of the most common indicators that a photograph was taken using a mobile device is when the subject ends up being tiny, to the point of being unrecognizable. This is actually a result of its smaller pixel size and lower resolution as compared to DSLRs. Your best solution is to move your phone’s lens closer to the subject that you’re framing. Avoid zooming as it will just result in pixilated/blurred image. If you have a high-end gizmo with a higher megapixel count, you can still utilize its optical/digital zoom flawlessly.

“Ladybug taken using Samsung Galaxy S2 Camera + Macro Lens” captured by Pison Jaujip

Verizon suggests that you first learn about your phone’s zooming capabilities. Take some sample shots upon purchase to determine if it has an optical or digital zoom. You are not advised to zoom if your phone lacks moveable lenses for optical zoom, as it will just process the pixels remaining in the area you zoomed into. It’s similar to cropping a selected portion of your subject; it will still end up pixilated.

Light Is Your Ultimate Savior

Even if you own the best smartphone camera on the planet, without adequate lighting, your picture will be dark. Ensure your subject is well-lighted. Look for a natural source of light around your surroundings – it could be sun rays passing through your windows or the artificial light inside your house.

“Untitled” captured by Alok Mehta using a Samsung smartphone.

Avoid using the built-in flash, as it commonly overexposes your subject. The built-in flash in your gizmo is only intended to be used for night shots. If you fire it for afternoon shots, or if you’re in a shaded environment, you might notice that your images appear darker than the usual.

When you do use flash, keep in mind that artificial light impacts the color cast in your shots. Experiment with white balance to fix it.

Experiment With White Balance

Even if you have good lighting and a great mobile camera, sometimes the saturation level of your subject’s color is still inaccurate. An easy solution to this dilemma is to manually manipulate the white balance to modify the color balance in your photographs based on your shooting conditions. If it’s sunny, use incandescent mode to balance the tint reaction. If you’re inside and the surrounding is too orange, set your white balance to fluorescent mode.

These are just a few tips for improving your smartphone photographs naturally. Even without editing, you can capture great images using your handy mobile device.

About the Author:
Kyle Albert is a freelance blogger and a photography enthusiast. For his subjects, he prefers landscapes over portraits. He also likes to take abstract images. Chat with Kyle on Google+.

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PictureCorrect.com: Interesting Photo of the Day: Photographer Creates “Starcano” Over Oregon

These days, adventure photographers have to be willing to do just about anything to produce unique photography of famous natural icons like canyons and mountain peaks. Thankfully, landscape and astrophotographer Mark Lehrbass didn’t shy away from that challenge while photographing the Three Sisters in Oregon at night. See for yourself:

“Welcome To Earth” captured by Mark Lehrbass (Via Imgur. Click image to see full size.)

To create “Welcome to Earth,” Lehrbass first climbed North Sister, one of Oregon’s most beloved peaks, and camped out on the summit. Having previously scouted the perfect location from which to capture Earth’s galactic core so that it appeared to be “erupting” out of Middle Sister, an ancient stratovolcano, he knew exactly where to wait.

Lehrbass shot 14 four-minute exposures and stitched them together with Photoshop, cleaning up star streaks and light pollution with 1% flow layer masks and clone stamping. The scene actually looked fairly dull to the naked eye (see for yourself), but as Lehrbass explained, full frame cameras like his Nikon D810 have incredibly sensitive sensors and can even pick up colorful astrophenomena like airglow during long exposures.

“A properly exposed night picture (especially a huge panorama like this) will reveal details and beauty of our nighttime world that most likely will have been hiding in plain sight,” wrote Lehrbass. “It’s like using night vision goggles to see in the dark. It’s not cheating by altering reality. It’s just using technology to gain a perspective on reality that you’d normally be blind to.”

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PictureCorrect.com: Capturing Sharp Photography: 5 Quick Tips

Capturing sharp photos in any situation takes some know-how. Some of you may already be familiar with some of these techniques. For beginners, these might be completely new. Whatever your level of competency, there’s always room for brushing up. Without further ado, here are five secrets to sharp photos from Pierre T. Lambert:

1. Reciprocal Rule

The rule of thumb is that your shutter speed should always be one over the focal length that you’re using. So, if you’re using a 200mm lens, or a lens capable of a longer zoom but set to 200mm for the shot, your shutter speed should be at least 1/200 second.

The longer the focal length, the faster the shutter speed that you need to get a sharp photo. Conversely, the shorter the focal length, the slower the shutter speed needed to get a sharp photo.

2. Portraits

Use a shutter speed of 1/125 second when photographing people. An individual might be moving around or laughing or talking while you’re photographing. This fast shutter speed helps to freeze the moment.

For people who are moving a lot bump up the exposure to 1/250 second. You can get away with a shutter speed of 1/50 second when someone is able to stay static.

3. Moving Subjects

For subjects that are genuinely moving—walking or running or jumping—even a 1/250 second shutter speed might not be enough. To get an absolutely sharp shot you may need to start from something like 1/500 second. If someone is walking you can start from 1/320 second If they’re running, start with 1/500 second. And for a jumping subject, start at 1/1000 second. Of course, you’ll have to compromise with the ISO and aperture depending on how fast a shutter speed you end up using.

4. Hand-holding

The best way to get a sharp photo is to use a tripod. Everyone knows that. But you can’t carry a tripod everywhere you go. Sometimes it is simply not feasible.

So how do you shoot a sharp photo when hand holding the camera? Simply tuck your elbows into your body and control your breathing before pressing the shutter release, much like a sharpshooter does before squeezing the trigger.

Of course, image stabilization also helps. And some people have steadier hands than others.

5. ISO Auto Minimum Shutter Speed

Some cameras come with a special mode known as ISO Auto Minimum Shutter Speed (check the screengrab below).

This mode basically tells the camera that whatever happens, it shouldn’t set a shutter speed below the threshold limit that you have set. That can be 1/500, 1/250 or even 1/100 second. Normally, when shooting in Auto mode or in the Aperture Priority mode, the camera automatically sets the shutter speed. Switching this on and setting a threshold limit will allow the camera to adjust other settings to balance the exposure without pushing the shutter speed too low.

What other tips do you have to help with getting sharper photos?

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PictureCorrect.com: Tips for Flower Photography

You see them everywhere: flowers in full bloom. They are colorful and so easy to photograph. You can use them as art prints, backgrounds for images, Facebook cover images, or just for the joy of capturing the beauty of a flower. There are some tricks that can elevate your images beyond snapshot level, into images that really express a flower’s magic.

photo by Henry Hemming

If you add only a handful of these approaches to your photography, you will be amazed at the results.

Camera Tricks

• Use a shallow depth of field. Set your f-stop or aperture to the lowest number you can. This gives you a sea of color while making one flower pop out.
• Try a slow shutter speed like 1/30, 1/15, or even 3 seconds on a windy or breezy day. This creates a wonderfully pastel, emotional image.
• Get close in. Use a macro lens if you can. You will capture unique detail, rarely seen, that will delight the viewer–especially if you print it very large.
• Bring along some simple tools. Reflector cards open up shadows. Large cards can act as wind blocks. You can bring along a colored card or even a photo of a background to put behind the flower. Have the background go out of focus for a believable transition.
• Set your file size to as large as you can for prints and cropping options.

photo by maf04

Composition Tricks

• Get down low, at “eye” level with the flower. Unique angles make flower shots more interesting.
• Look for lines and shapes, like diagonals and S-shaped curves, to give the image a flow. Use them as foreground elements to frame your main subject.
• Photograph flowers really early in the morning or just as the sun goes down for rich, soft lighting.
• Spray water on flowers for that morning dew look at any time of day.
• Place your “key” flower in a position that utilizes the rule of thirds grid for most impact.
• Work with depth of field to isolate a single blossom or find one flower that is a different color than the rest. Find one flower that is somehow different than its surroundings.

photo by solarisgirl

Creative Tricks

• Use floral images as background elements to lay behind smaller images.
• Create a larger image and put real flowers in front of them.
• Use photographs of flowers as texture overlays for portraits.
• Create your own greeting cards.
• Add inspirational copy and print the photos or post them to mentally frame your day.

That old phrase, “stop and smell the roses” could also have you stopping to photograph the flowers. Blossoms don’t last long, but a well-planned photograph will enrich your life with a flower’s beauty forever.

About the Author:
Mark Laurie is a master photographer, international speaker, author, and studio mentor (InnerSpiritPhoto). He teaches extensively in England and Canada. His Revealing Glamour Photography Workshop is run in Italy. Mark has published seven books. You can find information on his books, photography, and training on his website.

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PictureCorrect.com: 3 Tips for Portrait Photography at Home

With a little creativity, even the smallest of homes can become a great location for portrait photography. Photographers Lucy Martin and Lizzie Peirce give a few tips on how to take creative portraits at home:

1. Use Angles

Whether you get up high or go down low, look for a perspective that you don’t typically see.

“It’s just about thinking differently and separating your work from the rest.”

Look for new perspectives.

2. Create Depth

“In small ugly spaces, use depth and cover it up.”

Give your portraits some depth.

Martin and Peirce cover up their less-than-ideal living space with a white sheet and mimic the look of a narrow hallway by putting a hand out near the camera.

3. Embrace White Walls

A white wall is a blank slate. Direct your focus to your subject and avoid clutter by using plain walls.

A white backdrop forces you to be more creative.

Use props to add more to your story.

Throughout the video, Martin and Peirce focus on one thing: creativity. From going for unique angles to adding depth in unexpected ways to using unconventional backgrounds, getting an innovative shot is what it’s all about.

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PictureCorrect.com: How to Use Zone Focusing for Street Photography

Street photography is all about capturing the decisive moment, and to do that you need to act fast. Unlike in other genres of photography like landscape photography and portrait photography, you need to decide within a fraction of a second if you don’t want to miss the story.  Photographer David Coleman shares his tips on how to focus faster for street photography by using zone focusing:

Zone focusing is about setting your camera so that your subjects will be in acceptable focus within a certain range. For this, you need to fix your aperture and manually pre-focus the camera. By manually focusing the camera to a certain distance, you lock in a certain area (focus zone) in front of and behind the focus plane in which subjects will be acceptably sharp every time. Therefore, if you’re able to place your subjects within that zone, they will come out to be sharp without any worries. This is different from hyperfocal distance in the sense that the far limit for hyperfocal distance is at infinity, while for zone focusing, the far limit is somewhere nearby.

Camera Settings for Street Photography

For street photography, Coleman recommends using a wider lens (between 20mm–35mm on a full frame camera), as these focal lengths provide a better perspective for this genre. Before you learn how to set your zone of focus, prepare your camera by following these settings:

• Set your camera to aperture priority mode and set the aperture to f/11 to have a greater depth of field.
• Be mindful that the shutter speed is no slower than 1/125 second to avoid any kind of camera shake and motion blur. If your camera doesn’t allow you to set the minimum shutter speed, switch over to manual mode and then set your shutter speed and aperture.
• To make the photo-taking process even more efficient, let the camera to decide the ISO by setting the ISO to Auto.

Techniques for Zone Focusing

Now that your camera is all set for street photography, it’s time to set your zone of focus. For this, use any of the following techniques.

• Use the Depth of Field Scale on the lens. Some prime lenses come with a depth of field scale, also known as distance scale. If you don’t know how to use the scale, all you have to do is coincide the near limit of your zone of focus to the aperture that you will be using. The far limit and the focal plane will then be automatically shown on the scale.

Notice the aperture is set to f/11. The near limit of 4 ft. is then rotated until it coincides with the aperture value of 11 in the distance scale. This gives a focal plane distance of 6 ft. and the far limit of around 12 ft. on the distance scale itself.

• Remember three numbers: 35, 6, & 11. If you don’t have a distance scale on your lens—or if you have a zoom lens—use a 35mm focal length, set your focal distance to 6 feet, and use an aperture of f/11. This will allow you to have a near limit of 4 feet and a far limit of 12 feet (i.e. a zone of 8 feet, which is great for street photography).
• Use online tables and apps. This is a more accurate way of determining the zone of focus. For this, you can go online and search for zone focusing tables or even download apps that help you calculate depth of field. Such tables or apps provide you with the zone of focus depending on your type of camera, the focal length, and the aperture that you would like to use.

It’s up to you to choose which of the above techniques work for you. Be sure to try different near and far focusing distances and see which one works best for you. Once you get the hang of it, you will realize that not having to fiddle with the focus point every time allows you to spend a bit more time in composing your shots and concentrating on capturing the decisive moment.

“You pre-establish your zone, and any subject that walks into that zone is going to be in focus, and you’re going to be able to capture that decisive moment.”

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PictureCorrect.com: Butterfly Pictures: How to Capture Them

What else do you know that can compare to the magnificent colors you see when you look through your camera lens at a butterfly? Maybe a butterfly sitting on a beautiful brilliant flower. It doesn’t get any prettier than that.

Photo by Stavros Markopoulos; ISO 50, f/4.0, 1/500-second exposure.

If you’re lucky enough to have a garden with flowers that attract these winged beauties, and you’re into photography, hopefully, you’ve been getting some great shots. But, if that doesn’t describe your situation, you may find some of these tips helpful in getting started.

There are three great environments for photographing butterflies: the outdoors, gardens, and butterfly farms or houses. People have been collecting butterflies for centuries. Catching them, killing them, and displaying them on boards and in cases. Catching them on film is a great alternative. The butterfly gets to live and the pictures live on.

You don’t have to have a lot of special equipment or a big, expensive camera to begin your butterfly photography. Actually, you may be spending a lot of time getting up and down off the ground to get those great shots. A smaller point and shoot camera would be just perfect for butterfly photography. You’ll also need a good helping of patience and a lot of time. You can’t go out and call butterflies. You can, however, set yourself up to have the best possible opportunity to find butterflies to photograph

Butterflies are attracted to colors and scents. If your desire is to photograph butterflies in their natural habitat, you might go out a day or so ahead of time to locate an area that has the right conditions for butterfly photography. A couple good places to look would be fields that are loaded with wildflowers or areas of damp or moist soil. If you live in an area that is lush with forests, rivers, streams, and waterfalls look in those areas for some perfect shots of these magnificent creatures.

Photo by Andrew Neild; ISO 100, f/5.2, 1/250-second exposure.

Attracting Butterflies

If you have a garden filled with flowers of purple, lavender, white, yellow, orange, and red, you should be able to go out your back door, set up your tripod, and wait for the butterflies to appear. Some of the most popular flowers for butterflies are alyssum, dahlias, honeysuckle, impatients, marigolds, petunias, sunflowers, candytuft, and zinnias. You can also help encourage them to your garden by putting out some over ripe fruit or nectar. Butterflies are attracted to the scent of rotting fruit.

Background

Check your background before you’re start your photo shoot. Ideally, try to situate yourself so that the background compliments the butterfly. Do your best to frame the shot to eliminate unwanted background items. Get as close to the subject as you possibly can, without scaring it away, so that the butterfly fills the picture. Another way to deal with unwanted backgrounds is to set your camera to blur the background. Butterflies are attracted to flowers that are in the sun rather than the shade, so be positioned properly when taking your shots.

Photo by Andrew Neild; ISO 100, f/5.2, 1/320-second exposure.

Have your camera bag packed and ready the day before, so you can head out early in the morning. Have extra memory cards, extra batteries, and a tripod. As with most photography, the best time to photograph butterflies is either early in the morning or late in the evening. Not only is the lighting best, but the butterflies won’t be quite as active during these times of the day when it’s cooler. It will give you a little more time to take the shot when the butterfly comes into view.

Take as many pictures of the butterfly as you can before it flies away. Don’t wait for what you think may be the perfect shot or you may not get a picture at all.

About the Author:
Suzanne VanDeGrift has developed this article for m-rock, manufacturer of user-friendly camera bags.

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PictureCorrect.com: Reflector Lighting Tutorial for Headshots

While reflectors in photography are mostly used outdoors, they can be equally useful in the studio. Photographer Miguel Quiles with Adorama discusses how you can enhance your portrait photography with a reflector:

For demonstration purposes, Quiles uses his Sony a6500 camera paired with the 100mm f/2.8 STF lens along with a silver reflector. He has his camera set at f/5.6, ISO 400, and a shutter speed of 1/500 seconds for tack sharp images.

Beginners tend to hold the reflector much farther away than they should. To demonstrate how an image looks when taken without a reflector, with a reflector held far, and with a reflector held close, he takes the following three photos:

No Reflector

This image taken without a reflector lacks a wow factor. The surroundings don’t reflect any life into the model’s face. This vastly affects the skin tone, as well.

Next, the model holds the reflector at about her waist level. While this does reflect some light onto her face, the image still looks lifeless.

If you’re into portrait photography, then you must have realized that catchlights in the eyes play a huge role in adding life to a portrait. However, by keeping the reflector far away, the image will be devoid of catchlights. Quiles urges beginner photographers to correct this mistake and hold the reflector closer.

Reflector Held Far Away

Finally, Quiles demonstrates the correct way of placing the reflector: close to your subject. This time, the model holds the reflector at her chest level. While her skin is further illuminated, you also get to see some beautiful catchlights in her eyes. You’ll lose the catchlights if the model has her chin tilted up, so be sure to pose your model accordingly.

Reflector Held Close

If you happen to be shooting on a bright sunny day, you can still use the reflector for some amazing results. Just be sure to bring the model into some shade and place the reflector close to their face. You’ll end up with images that are tack sharp and interesting to look at.

Now that you know the potential of a simple reflector, we hope that it becomes a part of your photography toolbox. Inexpensive as reflectors are, they can still add the wow factor to your portrait photography.

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PictureCorrect.com: Quick Landscape Photo Editing Tutorial in Lightroom

Many beginner photographers feel overwhelmed by the idea of retouching their images. Using software like Adobe Lightroom or Photoshop doesn’t necessarily need to be overcomplicated. And you don’t need to spend hours retouching a single image to get the desired result either. Fine art photographer Attilio Ruffo takes you through a simple process of editing your landscape photos in less than five minutes using Lightroom’s basic editing panel:

Before starting off with the five-minute editing process, Ruffo suggests that you make the following quick adjustments. These are five quick fixes that you should follow for any of your images before editing them:

1. Remove chromatic aberration.
2. Enable profile correction.
3. Level the horizon so that the image does not look crooked.
4. Adjust the photo ratio depending on where you want to publish your image.
5. Remove any dust specks using the spot removal tool.

All these adjustments can be made with very few clicks of a mouse and can be done within Lightroom. Once done with these adjustments, head on to the develop module for the actual editing process.

Pick the Right Color Profile

Color profiles determine how colors appear in your images. Some color profiles make the image look flat and unflattering while others can make it look vibrant or full of contrast. Experiment with the different color profiles that are available and see what works best for your image. Ruffo prefers using the landscape or the Adobe color profile for his landscape images.

Choose the Correct White Balance

If the white balance is incorrect, the whites in your image will not be pure white. And accordingly, all other colors will appear inaccurate. Use the white balance tool to pick either a pure white, pure black, or neutral grey area to correct the white balance.

Notice the blue tint in the image due to incorrect white balance.

The colors look much more natural after white balance has been fixed.

Expand the Histogram to the Maximum

Whenever taking photos, it’s a good practice to expose to the right of the histogram. This ensures minimal noise in the images while lifting shadows in post.

To expand the histogram to the maximum, hold the Shift key and double click on black and on white. This will extend the blacks and the whites in the images to the extreme, without clipping.

Set the Tone and Exposure

Next, set the tone and exposure of your image by adjusting the shadows, highlights, and contrast sliders. Decreasing the highlights slider allows you to recover some more information in the brighter parts of your images. Increasing the shadows slider, on the other hand, allows you to recover some shadow details. Adding a little bit of contrast adds a punch to the image if it’s looking flat.

Working with Colors

The clarity adjustment tool helps you to adjust the contrast of the mid-tones. Increasing it a bit adds a punch to the image and also helps in defining the textures better. Be sure not to go overboard with this as it introduces unwanted artifacts in the images.

Adjusting the vibrance affects the saturation of the most muted colors. On the other hand, adjusting the saturation affects the saturation of all the colors. Adjust these two settings depending on how vibrant you want your image to appear.

Go on and see how these simple steps can transform your images. If this still feels challenging, keep on practicing and you’ll definitely get the hang of it.

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