PictureCorrect.com: Fireworks Photos: Preparation and Planning

Everyone loves a great fireworks show and it seems that lots of people take pictures while they are at the show. Here is a question for you. How many great pictures of fireworks have you seen taken by any of your friends or relatives?

I’ll bet your answer is not many. Now, have you ever wondered why everyone doesn’t have at least a couple of really good shots of fireworks? After all, the shows are free and the people there seem to be snapping pictures like crazy.

Photo by Brett Kiger; ISO 100, f/11.0, 15-second exposure.

I’ll answer the question for you. It is because a little preparation and planning is needed to increase your chances of getting some really nice shots at a fireworks display.

The following are a few tips that might help when you are photographing fireworks.

Use a Tripod: This fireworks photography tip applies no matter what kind of digital camera you are using. The reason you will need a tripod is because it is best to photograph fireworks at slow shutter speeds.

Slower shutter speeds allow the camera to gather more light from the fireworks scene against the dark sky. When a camera is hand held and a slow shutter speed is used, the result will be a blurred picture.

If you don’t have a tripod, try placing the camera on a steady surface when taking the pictures. Sometimes, even the roof of your car might help.

Arrive early, claim a good spot: If you have time before the show, this fireworks photography tip can be very useful. As you probably know, fireworks shows are usually pretty crowded and you don’t want to have to reach over someone’s head to take a shot.

Some people might like to be close to the fireworks, but from a photography standpoint, it is better to be a little distance away from the actual scene. It is better to be able to shoot towards the fireworks rather than shooting straight up at them.

Also, if you are not right upon the fireworks, you might be able to include a little more than the fireworks burst in your picture. A building, a monument, or a skyline along with the fireworks bursts might make the images a little more interesting.

Photo captured by Jamie Fenn

It is up to you to decide if you want anything but fireworks in your pictures. However, no matter what you decide, make sure you have a clear line of vision before you begin to photograph the fireworks.

Horizontal or Vertical? It doesn’t make a whole lot of difference if you hold the camera in the vertical or horizontal position when photographing the fireworks. However, since fireworks are shot upward in a vertical plane, it might not be a bad idea to shoot single bursts with the camera in the vertical position. On the other hand if there are several bursts going on at one time, the horizontal position will give you more room to frame the whole scene.

Exposure settings for photographing fireworks: If you are using a compact digital camera, you cannot manually change exposure settings. Try using the fireworks scene mode of your camera. The fireworks mode will automatically set a slow shutter speed to photograph fireworks. (once again that is why you need a tripod or a steady surface for the camera).

If you are a Digital SLR user, use your cameras’ manual mode. It would be great if you use the bulb “B” shutter setting. The “B” setting allows you to keep the shutter as long as you like. That way can open the shutter just before the burst, and close it right after if you choose to do so.

If you don’t use the “B” setting, experiment with shutter speeds from 2-8 seconds. Also, try using a remote shutter release to avoid camera shake from pressing the shutter button.

As for the camera lens aperture settings, use smaller aperture openings between F8 and F16 if possible. Although the sky is dark, the fireworks are bright and overexposure is possible when using large aperture and slow shutter speed.

Photo by Duncan Rawlinson – Dunca; ISO 100, f/18.0, 17-second exposure.

Use low ISO settings like ISO 100 if possible: Higher ISO setting like ISO 800 or ISO 1600 might produce grainy looking images. (depending on what camera you use.) So try to use an ISO setting of ISO 200 or less.

Timing is everything: Fireworks bursts will appear quickly and disappear just as fast. Pre focus your digital compact camera on an area where the fireworks are being generated from. Hold that focus until you are ready to take your next shot. You will save time by not having to focus once the firework is in the air.

If you are using a Digital SLR camera use your manual focus feature prior to or during the first burst. You won’t have to refocus if you stay in the same location and use the same focal length.

Listen for a thump like sound or a whistling sound in the air. Those sounds indicate that fireworks have just been shot into the air. For best results do not wait until you see the bright explosion. Press the shutter as soon as you know something has been fired into the air. That way your camera will get the full effect of the burst from the beginning.(that is if your camera is already pointed right at the area of the fireworks and set at a slow shutter speed).

Photographing fireworks might be a little tricky at first. However, with a little practice you should come out with some pleasing results.

I hope these tips on photographing fireworks will be useful to you.

About the Author:
Keith Jones writes for https://www.easybasicphotography.com/, a site geared towards beginners through serious amateurs who want to learn a little more about basic digital photography.

For Further Training on Fireworks Photography:

With 4th of July Independence Day celebrations quickly approaching, we have been receiving requests for more training on how to photograph fireworks. Fireworks photography is indeed one of the most daunting types of photography. This in-depth tutorial eBook explains the process from start to finish, everything from gear and camera settings to composition and post-processing to achieve great results with fireworks of any kind. Currently 55% off to help photographers prepare for the July 4th!

The How to Photograph Fireworks eBook

A common result of photographers new to fireworks photography is capturing nothing but bright white spots instead of colorful bursts. But with the guidance of this eBook in hand, you should be fully prepared to photograph brilliant fireworks displays.

Deal ending soon: How to Photograph Fireworks Guide at 55% Off

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PictureCorrect.com: How to Bracket Exposures in Photography

Many of us have heard of bracketing and then discarded it as something too difficult or impractical. But this little technique can almost guarantee you the perfect exposure every time. Let’s take a look at a few simple steps to great images.

In the old days of film photography, it was difficult to bracket if you didn’t want to spend a lot of money in processing and printing costs. But now in the digital age, where it costs nothing to shoot an image and nothing to review it on your computer, we can all do it. Here is how it works.

Photo by Gagan Moorthy; ISO 100, f/6.3.

I suppose you could call bracketing an insurance policy against badly exposed images. I must emphasize that it’s against bad exposure and not bad images. It’s no guarantee that your composition will be a good one. When looking at your images and finding a great composition with the exposure slightly off, it’s always an “if only” moment. Bracketing will limit these moments.

Bracketing allows you to shoot an image at the recommended meter exposure setting, an underexposed setting, and one overexposed setting. But, that still doesn’t solve your problem does it? The key here is to determine how much you want to under or over expose the image.

On your camera you’ll find a setting denoted ‘AEB’ for automatic exposure bracketing. By changing to this setting, you’ll find that you’re able to change the exposure by a third, half, or a full stop. Depending on how you’re shooting, i.e., using aperture value or timed or shutter value (Av or TV), you will either open or close your aperture more or speed up or slow down your shutter speed.

Getting back to how much to over or under expose, is what is going to improve or perfect your image. You’ll have to experiment to see how much you want change the stops, but once you’ve worked it out the rest, as they say, is history.

So, you’ve decided how much of a stop you want to bracket, then what next? Simple. Press the shutter button and voila! The camera will take three shots of the scene. One normal, one slightly overexposed, and one slightly underexposed. And, I’m pretty sure that one of them will be just right. You might find that the best one is the middle exposure and it wasn’t necessary for the other two. But, just in case, it’s a great feature to use on your camera as you learn digital photography.

If you’ve already tried to experiment with HDR photography you’ll find that AEB is a great help to get the perfect final image. Happy shooting!

About the Author:
Wayne Turner has been teaching photography for 25 years and has written three books on photography. He has produced 21 Steps to Perfect Photos; a program of learner-based training using outcomes based education.

For Further Training:

Looking for continuous improvement in your photography? PictureCorrect Insiders is a pathway to photographic excellence. Spots limited, don’t miss the next enrollment.

Unlock your photographic potential and take your skills to the next level with PictureCorrect Insiders. Our exclusive program is meticulously designed for photographers eager to enhance their abilities, creativity, and passion for photography.

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PictureCorrect.com: 6 Reasons to Try Long Exposure Photography

The purchase of a nine stop neutral density filter two years ago changed my approach to landscape photography. It allowed me to take photos using shutter speeds of one minute or longer and gave me a new way of photographing the sea (I live on the coast at the bottom of New Zealand’s North Island).

17mm, 30 seconds @ f/11, ISO 800

Long exposure photography is very enjoyable and rewarding, and if you haven’t tried it yet, what are you waiting for?

Reasons to Try Long Exposure Photography

1. Long exposure photography is easy. It’s a very simple and pure genre of photography. It’s just you, the camera, a wide-angle lens, and a tripod. The success of the shoot comes down to the drama of the landscape and your eye for light and composition. If you shoot at dusk, a neutral density filter isn’t required as the low light will let you use shutter speeds of 30 seconds or longer.

40mm, 201 seconds @ f/13, ISO 200

2. Longer exposures help you appreciate the beauty of the landscape. One of the things I like about it is the natural slowness of the process. It gives me time to slow down and enjoy the beauty of the landscape and the light.

3. No reciprocity failure. Long exposure photography has become popular since the rise of digital cameras. The instant feedback of the LCD screen, plus the lack of reciprocity failure take the guess work out of exposure, leaving the photographer to concentrate on light and composition.

17mm, 6 seconds @ f/5.6, ISO 400

4. If you have a nine or ten stop neutral density filter, you can take photos during the middle of the day during overcast conditions that traditionally are not considered suitable for landscape photography. Neutral density filters give you a new way of taking landscape photos, and extend the time in which you can create beautiful images way beyond the golden hour.

23mm, 30 seconds @ f/14.5, ISO 400

5. Long exposure photography appeals to photographers who work in black or white or see themselves as fine art photographers. The simple style and composition of the best long exposure photos lends itself to the fine art approach.

6. Long exposure photos are a new way of looking at the landscape. When a non-photographer sees a long exposure photo, they know that they can’t get the same result themselves on their compact cameras or smart phones.

40mm, 1.5 seconds @ f/11, ISO 400

About the Author:
Andrew Gibson’s ebook, Mastering Photography, introduces you to digital photography and helps you make the most out of your digital camera. It covers concepts such as lighting and composition, as well as the camera settings like Programmed Auto you need to use to become a creative photographer.

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PictureCorrect.com: New: Aperty Photo Editor for Perfect Portraits

Aperty is the new portrait software made by Skylum, and photographers around the world can pre-order it today at a special price, and receive it first hand in September. Only 698 licenses left!

A quick path to perfect portraits (see how it works)

Key Features of Aperty

Aperty distinguishes itself with a range of features designed to enhance the editing process:

• Retouching Automation: Streamlines the editing workflow by reducing the number of actions needed to achieve professional-quality results.
• Time-Saving Technology: Utilizes advanced algorithms to perform tasks more quickly than traditional editors, without compromising quality.
• Batch Editing: Allows for consistent changes across multiple photos, simplifying the process of editing large collections.

Simplifying Photo Editing

Traditional photo editing often involves numerous manual adjustments and complex steps. Aperty simplifies this process with intuitive actions, including:

• Blemish Removal
• Frequency Separation
• Skin Tone Adjustment
• Makeup Application
• Final Touches

Efficiency and Resource Optimization

Aperty enables users to handle large volumes of tasks simultaneously, reducing processing time and effort. Batch processes can be scheduled during off-peak hours to optimize system performance. Repetitive tasks are automated, ensuring consistent and flawless results.

Comprehensive Retouching Tools

Aperty provides a complete toolkit for portrait retouching, including:

• Supercontrast
• Denoise
• Vignette
• High Key
• Studio Light
• Portrait Background
• CompositionAI
• Portrait Bokeh
• Structure
• Color
• Black & White

One-click presets such as Cinelight, Embergow, Filmtone, Sunkissed, and Ambered offer professional-quality filters and adjustments for instant improvements.

Advanced Technology and User-Centric Design

Developed in collaboration with professional photographers, Aperty leverages advanced AI technology to deliver tailored enhancements for each photo. The user-centric interface is designed to be intuitive and easy to navigate, reducing the complexity of advanced photo editing.

Community and Support

Users can join a growing community of photographers and editors who rely on Aperty for their work. Dedicated support and resources are available to help users maximize their editing experience.

Pre-order Opportunity for Exclusive Lifetime Access

The lifetime license option will not be available after the launch, so this is a unique opportunity to secure long-term access to Aperty.

Pre-order offer ending soon: Aperty Portrait Editor

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PictureCorrect.com: Fireworks Photography Guide on Sale Until July 4

With 4th of July Independence Day celebrations quickly approaching, we have been receiving requests for more training on how to photograph fireworks. Fireworks photography is indeed one of the most daunting types of photography. This in-depth tutorial eBook explains the process from start to finish, everything from gear and camera settings to composition and post-processing to achieve great results with fireworks of any kind. Currently 55% off to help photographers prepare for the July 4th! Deal ending soon: How to Photograph Fireworks Guide at 55% Off

The How to Photograph Fireworks eBook

A common result of photographers new to fireworks photography is capturing nothing but bright white spots instead of colorful bursts. But with the guidance of this eBook in hand, you should be fully prepared to photograph brilliant fireworks displays. While the exposure fundamentals of aperture, shutter speed, and ISO are essential to great fireworks, it’s important to also be aware of the right accessories and set up for your shots correctly.

How to use bulb mode for long shutter speeds

Some of the Many Topics Covered (50 Pages):

• Equipment & Accessories Needed
• Using a DSLR for Fireworks
• Using a Point & Shoot for Fireworks
• Composition
• Using a Neutral Density Filter
• Country Shutter Technique
• Post Processing
• Conclusion

In-depth tutorials on how to photograph fireworks in challenging conditions

Like post processing in general, there are a myriad of ways to approach the post processing of fireworks shots. To start, they describe general tips and explain how they are universally applicable, and then they apply the techniques to example photos, explaining how they change the overall result.

Pages from How to Photograph Fireworks

How to Photograph Fireworks is a downloadable eBook PDF file, which can be viewed on a number of devices – laptop and desktop computers, iPhone or Android devices, iPads, and other tablets.

How to Get a Discounted Copy Before July 4:

It is currently 55% off until the 4th of July to help photographers prepare for fireworks shows! It also carries a 90 day guarantee, if you do not find the eBook useful just let us know to receive a full refund. So there is nothing to lose in trying it.

Deal found here: The How to Photograph Fireworks eBook at 55% Off

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PictureCorrect.com: Tips for Photographing Spirals

This article is based on concepts from The Advanced Photography Action Cards which are currently 71% off if you want to check them out.

In numerous areas of study, many theories examine why the spiral shape is so darn fascinating to us.

Photo by Yifei Chen

The use of spiral shapes in architecture and art dates back almost to the beginning of human existence.

It’s true. We’ve had a long love affair with the spiral!

Most of us are spending a lot of time at home these days. We may not currently have the opportunity to photograph a gorgeous architectural spiral, such as this museum staircase.

But that doesn’t mean we can’t go on the hunt for less obvious spiral subjects to photograph. You likely have numerous spirals near you at this very moment.

Photo by Rollstein

The spiral can be found in everything from galaxies to snail shells.

In ancient history the spiral was considered a symbol of prosperity as it represented the growth of a vine. (I guess the ancients liked their wine too!)

Today I’ll guide you along on a photo safari to seek out and photograph spirals right in the comfort of your own home.

Photo by ulleo

Let’s Start by Finding Spirals in the Kitchen

Many food-related items contain a spiral. Pasta is a great example.

Photo by adamkontor

Or how about some cinnamon rolls?

For this spiral project, follow these steps.

• Gather food items that are spirals by nature.
• Gather food items that you could twist into a spiral for something more abstract.
• Scrounge through your cooking utensils. I bet you have a spiral or two in there somewhere (perhaps a corkscrew)!

Push a table near a window. Also gather a couple of other light sources. Select sources that have different types of lighting – a table lamp that provides broad even light could be one source, and a powerful flashlight that creates a spotlight effect could be another. The idea is to create different types of lighting.

Now build your set. You could use simple art paper for a plain background. You could also use a clear glass container to create water effects, such as the pasta photo above. Alternatively, you could create a table setting. In the end, your set building is limited only by your imagination.

Now Let’s Find some Spirals in Other Parts of the House

Idea: Take a look at some of the toys that you may have lying around. A Slinky is one example, but there are lots of toys that incorporate a spiral design.

Photo by CWilkinson

Lighting: When photographing a spiral, you don’t want to use flat frontal lighting. You want to use lighting that comes from the side or the rear. These directions of light accentuate the shape, which is essential when capturing pictures of a spiral.

If you find that you’re scratching your head in search of spirals around the home, let me share with you how easy it can be.

Let’s Search for spirals in the Garage and Basement

Top left photo by CarlottaSilvestrini, Top right photo by Steve Johnson, Bottom left photo by MikesPhotos, Bottom right photo by analogicus

Idea: While engaging in your spiral photo safari, don’t just think, “I’m looking for a spiral.” Remember, you can also create a spiral. Two of the images above were found spirals, and two were created spirals.

Top left photo by JJ Ying, Bottom left photo by Jen Theodore, Right photo by Matheus Frade

How About Checking the Home Office for Spirals

Idea: Paper is an excellent resource for spiral photography. It can easily be molded and shaped into different types of spirals. Remember, you can combine the spiral with other shapes for different effects! You can also combine different spirals made from different materials for exciting juxtaposition.

Photo by MabelAmber

Key Thought: A spiral is a shape. A shape is a powerful tool of composition when repeated in a photograph. From a composition point of view, a repetitive form is at its strongest when you introduce an interruption. The picture of the rope depicts how an interruption in flow creates drama. The disruption becomes a focal point to the subject, which is a rope with a spiral!

Top left photo by Matt Hagerty, Bottom left photo by Lorenzo Hamers, Right photo by Bogomil Mihaylov

Key Thought: You’ve probably heard of the Fibonacci Sequence. You know – Pi and the Golden Ratio. That idea is best left for another blog post. The reality is that any spiral has the potential to create an exciting and fun photo!

Skill Points:

• Spirals are found everywhere in nature. However, you may need to get down on your hands and knees to spot them!
• When photographing your spiral, make sure that it contrasts from the background either by tone or color.
• The best lighting to capture a spiral shape is either sidelight or backlight. Don’t use front lighting unless you are using multiple light sources.
• Combining a spiral, or spirals, with other shapes or materials can create interesting juxtapositions.
• Creating your own spiral out of materials easily found around the home can open up your creativity to an entirely new level. The possibilities are endless.
• History has proven that the human mind has a unique attraction to the spiral shape. Including a single spiral or more than one spiral within your photo, virtually guarantees added attention.
• When you’re out and about, you will find spirals everywhere, especially in architecture and other forms of art such as sculptures. Be on the lookout.

Idea: You can easily create a spiral by attaching a flashlight to a string and swinging it in a circle while standing in a darkened area.

Photo by Mitchell

How to Make a Light Spiral:

1. Locate a dark area. This could be outdoors or inside a room. If you’re outdoors, look around for other light sources that might affect your picture. You could get creative and include those light sources, or you could exclude them and just go for the spiral. If you choose an indoor spot, make sure you have enough space. You don’t want to hit anything with your twirling flashlight.
2. Use a small, lightweight flashlight to start. As you gain skills, you can try different kinds of lights and mix them up in the same picture. Tie the rear of the flashlight to a sturdy string.
3. With the lights on, swing the flashlight around for some practice.
4. To create a spiral, you’ll have to do one or both of two things as you twirl the flashlight. Increase, or decrease, the size of the arc while swinging the flashlight. And/or move closer or away from the camera as you rotate the light during the exposure.
5. To vary the size of the arc, loosely hold the string in one hand close to the flashlight, and then firmly grab the line with the other hand (2 to 3 feet from the flashlight). As you twirl the light, move the loose hand forward or backward along the string. This will change the diameter of the arc. It might take a little practice.
6. Try changing the diameter of the arc and also moving forward or backward with your feet at the same time.
7. Set your camera up on a sturdy surface, preferably a tripod.
8. Set the shooting mode to manual.
9. Set the aperture to f/5.6.
10. Set the shutter speed to bulb or the most extended shutter speed that your camera allows (it should be at least 15 to 30 seconds).
11. Use either the self-timer, a cable release, or an electronic remote release to fire the shutter.
12. Start with an ISO of 800. Note: Depending upon the illumination level of your light source, you may have to adjust either the ISO or the aperture.
13. Set the camera focus to manual and manually focus on an object located where you will stand while swinging your flashlight.
14. With your shooting location darkened, turn on the flashlight and let it hang on the string. Begin twirling it in a circle. Remember: you have to vary the size of the circular arc and/or change your camera to subject distance to create a spiral. Otherwise, you will simply record a circle.

Post-Processing

Photo by Laurent Perren

You can go another step further with your creative spirals by editing your existing photos using your post-processing software.

In Photoshop, you can create a spiral from any existing photo by using the ‘Twirl’ filter!

Idea: If your desktop editing software doesn’t offer a spiral effect option (such as Lightroom), go looking at the range of mobile phone editing apps. One that comes to mind immediately is PhotoSpiralysis.

You can transfer any photo, from any camera, onto your smartphone for editing into a spiral, and then move it back to your desktop suite for more editing options!

Let’s Wrap up this Spiral Talk

In closing, numerous studies have compared the spiral to other shapes, both natural and man-made. The spiral always comes out on top when it comes to attractiveness and viewer retention. That’s powerful knowledge for the photographer who wants his or her photos to be noticed!

How did you do?

• Were you able to locate spirals inside your home?
• Did you find spirals outdoors and in your garage or basement?
• Did you not only find spirals but also create them?
• Did you have fun making different types of spirals with paper?
• How many different types of materials did you use to make a spiral photo?
• Did you mix spirals with other shapes?
• Were you able to create some spiral photos with food?
• What types of lighting did you use? Did they all work out equally well?
• Did you try the spiral light painting technique with a swinging flashlight?
• Did any of these exercises challenge you in exposure and lighting?
• Did you create a small portfolio of spiral images that you’re proud of?
• Did you try to create a spiral in post-processing?
• What did you learn about spiral photography that you could pass on to the next photographer?

About the Author:
Kent DuFault is an author and photographer with over 35 years of experience. He’s currently the director of content at the online photography school, Photzy.com.

For Further Training, Deal Ending Soon:

Introducing 20 printable project sheets, with over 60 new photography assignments to really push and expand your shooting skills. These Advanced Action Photography Cards are currently 71% off today if you want to check them out.

Advanced Photography Action Cards

These Action Cards discuss a photographic topic, provide you with suggested considerations, and give you specific photographic assignments. They’ll kick you out of the “nest” to go have a personal discovery experience all on your own.

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PictureCorrect.com: A Closer Look at Luminar Neo’s Latest Photo Editor Update

Luminar Neo has released its latest update, version 1.20.0, packed with new features and enhancements designed to improve your editing workflow and overall experience. Here’s a rundown of the key updates:

Luminar Neo (see how it works)

Enhanced Extension Integration

Extensions have been relocated from the Extras tab to more accessible locations within the interface, making it easier to access these tools while editing.

Catalog Tab Enhancements

The Catalog tab now includes essential tools like HDR Merge, Panorama Stitching, Focus Stacking, and UpscaleAI, all aimed at simplifying the process of merging photos and enhancing resolution for sharper, more detailed images.

Edit Mode Improvements

New tools such as SupersharpAI and NoiselessAI have been introduced to enhance image quality directly within Edit mode, providing users with better control over sharpening and noise reduction.

Creative Section Additions

Magic LightAI, now available in the Creative section, offers enhanced capabilities for manipulating lighting effects, while Background RemovalAI has been integrated into Layers for easier background isolation.

Language Expansion

Luminar Neo now supports Czech, expanding its language options to 17, catering to a wider international user base.

Interface Refinements

Throughout the application, you’ll notice improved icons for tools, streamlined access to Extensions, and enhanced usability for X Membership features, Extras button, and Luminar Share functionalities.

Bug Fixes and Enhancements

The update includes fixes for various bugs and performance improvements:

• macOS improvements include better batch merging in HDR Merge, improved RAW image handling, and more accurate image export.
• Windows enhancements focus on smoother ObjectAI mask functionality and refined interface elements like Ghost Reduction in Batch HDR operations and the Portrait Background tool.

These updates collectively aim to enhance user experience by offering more powerful tools, improved usability, and enhanced performance across platforms. Luminar Neo continues to evolve as a robust solution for photographers seeking creative control and efficiency in their editing processes.

Summer sale ending soon: Luminar Neo Photo Editor

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Photography, like any art or skill, thrives on consistency. The journey to becoming an adept photographer is paved with regular practice. Learn how PictureCorrect Insiders can help.

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Sunset and Startrails by AtanuBandyopadhyay (500px.com/AtanuBandyopadhyay)

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PictureCorrect.com: Street Photography: Telling a Complete Story

While street photography can often seem like a stream of random and unrelated moments all jumbled together, the reality of the genre is the complete opposite of this.

The magic of street photography is taking these moments and weaving them together to create a feeling, tell a story or show a place—and often all three together. This is an art form within the art form of street photography, and the sky is the limit with what you can create.

So here are some tips to help you do all of this.

Create Collections:

Collections in Lightroom (and similar album systems for other programs) are an extremely important part of the editing process. For any idea or story that I have, I will create a collection, which allows me to keep my related photos in one place without physically moving them on my hard drive.

As I’m going through my work, if I see a photo that could work within one of these collections, I’ll drag it in there. Then I will go through these collections frequently to see what’s working and what’s not. I often delete photos from collections as well.

Grow Your Vision Organically:

The more I do this with collections, the more I find photographs that start to relate to each other in my work. As the collection progresses, it often changes drastically, and photos I loved at first just don’t fit anymore. It’s a fun, organic process that allows me to notice more when I’m out shooting, to find more photos that fit within these ideas.

Over time, this organic process grows more concrete and I can put words to what I’m doing. I notice more subjects that fit within the idea, and will then even be able to go searching for specific types of images to fit that theme.

Use the Star System:

I couldn’t live without the star system when editing my work and creating projects. This allows me to quickly pick out my best photos as well as the photos that I’m not sure about, so I can find them easily later.

Typically, I’ll give my photos either zero stars (which I’ll later delete), three stars (which are photos I’m not sure about) and five stars (which I love, at least initially). But the three-star photos are just as important as the fives. I often go through these folders months later and will find incredible three-star photos that I was not sure of at the moment, but with some time clearly stood out.

Create a Project:

So how do you come up with an idea for a project? There are a bunch of ways!

The first is to do it organically, as I mentioned earlier. Just go out and shoot a lot, go to new areas, revisit favorite places again and just build your archive. This is such an important step to give yourself time to find enough great moments and to also train your eyes.

After a while, you’ll start to notice photos that you relate to most and that relate to each other, and this will begin to spark loose ideas. You’ll start to find more and more moments that fit while you’re out shooting, and the idea and feeling in the work will grow organically until one day it becomes concrete.

The next way is to choose an area and tell the story of it. I typically recommend choosing the area where you live or just a place you frequent, obviously because this will give you the most time to shoot—after all, they’re the places you know the best.

Capture the people, the buildings, the general scenes, interesting details and even nature. Tell a complete story. Try to put your spin on how you feel about the place and what makes it unique (or not unique). Put your feelings into it.

And the final strategy is just to sit down and brainstorm an idea for a project. To help do this, I think doing photographer research is vital. Look through projects, photographers and photo books you love for inspiration to help spark the right idea. Jot them all down on paper and eventually one will stick!

Build a Book Mockup:

After some point, I’ll begin to go through my collections to sequence them, weave together a story and eventually create a mock book through the book module in Lightroom and Blurb. It’s such a fun experience seeing your hard work all bound together.

All photographs in this article are from a project titled “Luxe City” by James Maher.

You can also have your photos printed cheaply in 4×6 or 5×7 prints and paste them into a notebook to create a sequence.

And you can do so much more than just a book mockup. You can create affordable zines that you can show around, give to friends or even try and sell. It’s a fantastic and affordable way to share your work offline and to help people see the world through your eyes.

About the Author:
James Maher is the author of Essentials of Street Photography, which covers everything about the genre even down to specific post processing techniques that can bring the best out of street scenes.

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Photography, like any art or skill, thrives on consistency. The journey to becoming an adept photographer is paved with regular practice. Learn how PictureCorrect Insiders can help.

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Twilight Zone by rachaelcurtis (500px.com/rachaelcurtis)

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Home sweet home night version by Fabrizio_Ferraris (500px.com/Fabrizio_Ferraris)

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PictureCorrect.com: Adapting to Weather and Time of Day as a Photographer

Have you ever been in the position where your shutter finger is just itching to take some photos? You look outside and the weather is overcast and the sun is nowhere to be found. Take heart; you don’t always need the sun. Here’s why.

photo by Tuncay

I was always lead to believe that if there was no sun, then there wasn’t an opportunity for good photography. So during the winter months and overcast summer or spring days I had to find another hobby, or so I thought. That’s not true and I’ll show you why.

1. Shooting outdoors on overcast days

If you’ve never tried it, then go out and do it. You’ll be surprised at the photos you take. Why? Because the clouds act as one big filter resulting in a soft and even light. The harsh shadows you sometimes see in your sunny day images are just not there. There’s no glare in the subject’s eyes and it can look as if the photo has been taken by a professional.

photo by Cristian Bortes

Check that your white balance is set to cloudy if you aren’t shooting on automatic. Although you get really good photos on a cloudy day, it is more suited for smaller scenes, close-ups and portraits. Landscapes don’t do that well on cloudy days.

2. Sunny days

Bright sunny days are not always the best time to take good photos. Too much bright light can be a bad thing so you need to know what time of day is best. When it’s sunny you’d probably find that around midday is not the best time to shoot any images. The lighting is directly from above and very harsh.

Shadows fall below the eyes in a portrait and can result in an ugly image. Unless you’re looking for very specific lighting effects for buildings and similar subjects, don’t shoot between 11am and 1pm.

photo by Catrin Austin

Early to mid-morning and late afternoon are the best times for shooting on sunny days. Lighting is from the side, the contrast is great, and the atmosphere created by light that is more golden is amazing.

Besides shooting sunsets and sunrises, virtually any type of image will look great. A key here is to use bright shade for portraits and other people shots. It gives the same effect as a cloudy day.

3. Shooting indoors

There is no bad time when shooting indoors, as you always have control of the light when using flash or strobes. But flash isn’t the greatest light to shoot by even if you do have total control. Using available natural light will always give you a great image. So what’s the best way? Find a place inside with a large window that allows a good amount of light to enter the room.

Place your subject in the area where most of this light falls. If you find that the opposite side of the subject is too dark, use a reflector which, can be a large piece of card, a white board, or a bed sheet draped just outside the view of the camera lens. Experiment to find the best subject placement. Sometimes the darker side of the image will make the overall image really stunning.

photo by Eric Hossinger

So, there’s always a time to take an image, and key to this is make the best possible use of available light. You may not be able to shoot the image you have in mind but you’ll still be able to create an image that’s stunning. You won’t necessarily get it right the first time; be prepared to experiment and try different placements and angles, and I can assure you that you’ll come up with something great.

About the Author:
Wayne Turner has been teaching photography for 25 years and has written three books on photography. He has produced 21 Steps to Perfect Photos; a program of learner-based training using outcomes based education.

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Photography, like any art or skill, thrives on consistency. The journey to becoming an adept photographer is paved with regular practice. Learn how PictureCorrect Insiders can help.

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