torstai 30. kesäkuuta 2016

PictureCorrect.com: Interesting Photo of the Day: Giant Whale Plays Hide and Seek with a Boat

What’s it like to play hide and seek with a 60-ton whale? Photographer Justin Hofman and his expedition crew found out while diving just off of Argentina’s Patagonian coast:

whale humpback boat ocean sea underwater

“Hide and Seek” (Via Imgur. Click image to see full size.)

The whale pictured here is a Southern right whale, an endangered species native to the Southern Hemisphere. Once numbering in the mere hundreds, the Southern right whale population has rebounded to more than 10,000 in recent years thanks to the hard work of conservationists. Hofman and his expedition crew chanced upon multiple whales as the gentle giants completed their annual winter migration to raise their young in Argentina’s warm coastal waters.

“I’ve gotten a lot of emails and comments about the over/under shot being fake,” Hofman told National Geographic. “This is not a composition of two photos and was only possible with the help of a skillful boat handler who placed the boat in the perfect position.”

Hofman captured this image using a DSLR and an underwater video camera. He must also have employed some of his mad ninja swimming and/or animal whispering skills, since many of the images in this series were captured from within six feet of these shy creatures!


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PictureCorrect.com: DSLR Camera Cleaning & Maintenance Tips

Okay, so you’ve just shelled out your hard-earned coin for a sophisticated (codename for “expensive”) digital camera. Even if you’ve done the sensible thing and purchased a quality camera bag or backpack to keep it in one piece when not in use, you’ve only taken the first of two important steps toward keeping your camera in good working order.

You see, through the natural course of using your camera, it will get coated in microscopic bits of dust and grime, no matter how careful you are with it; the shiny lenses and camera bodies attract dust like you wouldn’t believe. So, you’re going to need to spend some time detailing your camera to keep it nice and clean and in good working order.

And it’s not just microscopic dust and dirt you that may cause you to have to take time to clean your camera. For instance, you may be out taking photos when it starts bucketing down with rain. Now, rain can be a good thing, making dull, dry-day photos into something more interesting, with the dark rain clouds adding a touch of moodiness and the rain water reflecting light in all sorts of interesting ways. Later on, though, what you may find is your camera has small streaks on it, where the rain water evaporated. This will need to be cleaned off, especially if water got onto the lens.

Or, maybe you’re taking photos around a barbecue or on bonfire night; the smoke from the fire can get on your camera and any residue left behind will need to be cleaned off.

Dust, sand, dirt, water, and smoke are all elements that photographers are likely to encounter that are harmful to cameras and camera gear. Keeping your camera(s) and lens(es) clean can:

  • Help to preserve the functionality of buttons, dials and touch screen LCDs
  • Save you both time and money (as you avoid unnecessary repairs)

Keeping your lenses clean will help keep specks of dirt or grime from showing up in your photos, which at best might mean extra minutes spent trying to erase them in post production (using software such as Adobe Lightroom or Photoshop) or, at worst, could render a prize photo unusable.

Bridge Camera Considerations

I’ve owned both a bridge camera (Panasonic FZ1000) and a proper DSLR (Panasonic GH4). Bridge cameras are much easier to live with, from a cleaning and maintenance perspective, as they don’t have interchangeable lenses, so all you need to worry about is keeping the lens clear of dirt and debris, so it goes on taking crisp, clean images, and keeping the rest of the camera clean of dust and debris, so that it doesn’t manage to find its way into any points that are opened or can be opened to the elements (e.g., battery and memory card slots, microphone sockets, or even down the ultra slim gap between the buttons or dials and the camera body itself).

Also, dust on the camera body can easily find its way onto the lens. So, if you only bother to clean the lens and ignore the camera body, you may return from a long or important photo shoot to find one or two annoying specks of dust or debris that had been dislodged from the camera body or lens barrel, only to find their way onto the lens. Do you really want to take that chance? I’ve experienced this and it’s not something you allow to repeat too often.

DSLR Camera Considerations

If you’ve bought a DSLR camera, you will also need to:

  • Factor in keeping clean the rear of your lenses, including the metal contact pins (which allow the lens and camera to communicate the necessary data, making things like your camera’s autofocus work as intended)
back of a lens

photo by William Brawley

  • Potentially clean the ultra sensitive sensor, as well. You certainly don’t need to be cleaning the sensor every time you’ve changed lenses—only if you discover that there are specks of dust or debris on the sensor, which you will likely find if your photos still have spots on when you’ve made doubly certain the glass of the lens, at both ends, is clean and dust free. I’ll talk more about sensor cleaning, later on in this article.

Right then, this is the cleaning and maintenance process I followed with my two cameras, which has now become something of an ingrained habit, over the years…

Cleaning and Maintenance of Bridge Cameras

1. Preparation. I like to get organized, first, by taking out all of the cleaning tools I’ll need and putting them on the surface where I’ll be detailing my camera (whether that’s at the kitchen table or wherever’s most convenient at the time). Tools include:

lens pens

photo by othree

  • Lens Pen. It contains a soft bristled brush that I use on the camera body and lens barrel, as well as a statically charged tip, which I use primarily on the glass of the lens, but I’ve also used it on the LCD screen and viewfinder, from time to time.
air blower

photo by Keith Williamson

  • Air Blower. I blow off any dust and debris that can be easily dislodged with this tool. I do this before I use the brush from the lens pen, so as not to risk harder bits of debris potentially scratching delicate surfaces. Maybe it’s overcautious, but that’s just my way of doing it.
  • Microfiber Cloth. I wrap a clean area of the cloth so that it’s taut around a forefinger and then I use a circular motion for cleaning, especially on the glass of the lens itself. So, at this stage, I will have used, first the air blower, then the brush of the lens pen, and now the microfiber cloth for the rest of the job. While the statically charged tip housed underneath the cap of the lens pen, can be used for cleaning the glass of the lens, I typically like to reserve that for when I need to clean my camera away from home, as it’s less fiddly than using a microfiber cloth. When at home, I will opt for the microfiber cloth for this part of the job. Choose whichever method you prefer, if you have the choice of cleaning with both a microfiber cloth and a lens pen.
  • Lens Cleaning Fluid. This is used with the microfiber cloth. I tend to only use this fluid if the camera and/or lens becomes particularly grubby. First, I wrap the microfiber cloth around my cleaning finger and then I spray a small amount onto the cloth—not directly onto the lens or camera body, as it can be easy to spray too much, and then you’re effectively pouring liquid into the gaps of your camera—between buttons and dials, for instance—which could be just as harmful as getting any of the other unwanted elements in there. Spraying onto the cloth helps absorb any excess fluid, first, and then you’re good to clean the body, lens barrel, or lens.

2. Cleaning the Camera. I clean my cameras in the following order and now it’s just become a habit. First, I clean the Lens Barrel, so that no surface debris or dust falls off and onto the glass of the lens when I turn the camera over to access different parts for cleaning. Next, I clean the glass of the lens and, finally, I clean the LCD & Viewfinder.

Cleaning and Maintenance of DSLR Cameras

I follow the same procedure for cleaning my Panasonic FZ1000 Bridge Camera, only now, because my Panasonic GH4 is a “proper DSLR”, with interchangeable lenses, I have to be vigilant about not getting dust on the sensor or on the rear of the lens when switching lenses and, if that happens, I need to take steps to clean either the lens, camera sensor, or both.

1. Cleaning The Lens . There is a button on the body of the camera, which you push and then you turn the lens (typically in a counter-clockwise direction), to remove the lens from the body of the camera. Now, before I do anything else, I pop on the bottom lens cap (which will come with any new lens that you buy from any good manufacturer) and set the lens to one side. If you have a cap that will go over the exposed sensor on the camera body, now is the time to put it on (so that no household dust can find its way onto the sensor—there’s no sense in having to clean the ultra sensitive sensor if you don’t have to). Once done, now I can clean the lens, itself.

I tend to clean the body of the lens, first, using first an air blower to remove the loosest of the dirt or debris. Then, I’ll use the brush on the lens pen to get rid of the more stubborn bits of debris. If needed, I’ll use the microfiber cloth, with a spray or two of cleaning fluid, to finish cleaning the body of the lens. Next, I’ll take off the lens cap and clean around the edges of the lens, before using a circular motion with the cloth to clean the glass of the lens. After putting the lens cap back on, I’ll check the bottom of the lens (the end with the metal contact pins). If it needs it, I’ll clean this in the same way that I detail the front of the lens. However, I often find that there aren’t any marks, nor any grime or debris on this end (because I’ve been careful when changing lenses and have managed not to get any dirt on this end of the lens—I tend to go out of the house with the lens I intend to use, so changing lenses in the field isn’t something I have faced, as yet. That is when you’re more likely to find specks of dirt or debris on the bottom of the lens, and so will need to clean it).

And that’s it, the lens is cleaned and it can either go back on the camera or away into my camera bag, which is where I keep my lenses.

2. Cleaning the Sensor. I’m going to refer to the user guide for my Panasonic GH4, to explain how sensor cleaning is done with the this particular camera. If you have a different camera, because of the sensitivity of the image sensor, it’s recommended you consult the manufacturer’s user manual before attempting to clean the sensor.

The following is from page 411 of my copy of Panasonic’s “Operating Instructions” PDF user manual, for the GH4:

Dust Reduction Function

“This unit has a dust reduction function that will blow off the debris and dust that have affixed to the front of the imaging device. This function will function automatically when the camera is turned on, but if you see dust, perform the [Sensor Cleaning] (P68) in the [Setup] menu.”

Removing Dirt On The Image Sensor

“The image sensor is very precise and delicate, so be sure to observe the following when you do have to clean it yourself.”

“Blow off the dust on the surface of the image sensor with a commercially available blower brush. Be careful not to blow too strongly.

“Do not put the blower brush further inside than the lens mount.

“Do not let the blower brush touch the image sensor as the image sensor may get scratched.

“Do not use any objects except a blower brush to clean the image sensor.

“If you cannot remove the dirt of dust with the blower, consult the dealer or Panasonic.”

I would imagine the same advice applies for pretty much all digital camera sensors, but I still recommend you read the operating manual for your particular brand of camera, before proceeding with cleaning your camera’s sensor.

When to Clean Your Camera

dirty camera

photo by Mark Tighe

Finally, I’ll just let you in on when I clean my camera…

When I got my first “big” camera (Panasonic FZ1000), I was resigning myself to cleaning and detailing the camera and my gear after every time I used it. However, that soon changed to only when it looked like it needed a cleaning. If the camera had obvious specks of dirt or debris on it, then I’d clean it. But, if it all looked acceptably clean, and if there were no marks on the glass of the lens, I’d just put it straight back in the camera bag (changing to freshly charged spare batteries, before doing so, so that I wouldn’t find myself running out of power the next time I needed to use the camera).

That said, perhaps once a week, I’m likely to sit down and clean the camera, as general grime does accumulate on the camera through normal use, and it blends in with the black finish of the camera lens and body. If you don’t believe me, just go a week or so, using your camera daily, but without cleaning the surface. Then, at the end of the week, take a light/white colored microfiber cloth and wipe it into the crevices at the front of the lens barrel, surrounding the glass of the lens, and then take a look at the cloth. It will be grimy. Guaranteed.

About the Author:
Graham Wadden created and maintains the Creative Commons photography website, WaddenCCPhotography.com, specializing in creating stock photography primarily for home educators and those in education.


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PictureCorrect.com: The Beautiful Science of Space Photography

When you imagine the opposite of science, you think of art. Art is creative, chaotic, colorful, and it uses the right side of your brain. Science is logical, organized, quantifiable, and it uses the left side of your brain. If you’re an art major and your friend is a science major, chances are you have none of the same classes and those classes are on the opposite sides of campus. But although art and science are often very different, it doesn’t mean they don’t overlap in some areas. As one example, take a look at space photography:

These photos are taken from highly technical and complex telescopes and imaging devices. Their sole purpose is to collect data from space and help scientists interpret it. But in the process of gathering the data and transforming it into an image, beautiful and abstract photos are created. It’s hard to image that something so practical, that something bound by the law of physics, could create such abstract and colorful imagery.

space imagery photography abstract

What looks like an artist’s canvas is actually an image from space.

Science is often thought of as boring and ordinary. But if you think about it, all of our photography is surrounded by science. The patterns in someones eyes, wood grain, or animal fur, the formation of clouds, ice, and fire, the changes in a flower, the sky, or human being. Science is responsible for all of the regular and irregular things we encounter in everyday life.

space imagery photography abstract

“Almost every branch of science produces things that are just absolutely gorgeous.

“It’s like looking at conceptual art where there’s some meaning behind it, some story behind it. When you begin to understand what it is you’re looking at, you begin to appreciate it on a different level.”


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PictureCorrect.com: How to Use DIY Gobos for Great Lighting in a Home Portrait Studio

Tired of shooting the same ol’ portrait style over and over again but unsure of what you can do in studio without investing in more equipment? Consider this DIY technique from photographer Gavin Hoey that allows you to create amazing shadows using simple things you can find around the house:

There are a number of elements that are key to any good photograph, and the nature of the shadows is up at the top of the list–especially for portraiture. As Hoey says,

“Whilst photography needs light, it also needs shadows to give depth and interest to a shot. That applies just as much to studio photography as it does to location shoots, and that’s where gobos can really help.”

To use Hoey’s gobo technique, you simply place a light-porous object in front of a light source. It’s that simple. You an use this technique both on the subject and on the background and just about anything that lets light through in some places and not others can be used. The only trick is to find a way to fix the object in place.

DIY shadows

Sprucing up a drab background with a little light splash.

If you already have a studio set-up, you probably won’t need much extra. A key light and a background light are really all you need. If, on the other hand, you’ve yet to set up your studio or you’re looking for more gear, the list below is a great place to start.

Equipment List

Creating interesting shadows

Whatever set-up you choose to use, adding amazing shadows to your portraits is limited only by willingness to experiment and your sense of creativity.

As Hoey says,

“With gobos (or cookies) it’s all about the shadows. How you create those is entirely up to you.”


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keskiviikko 29. kesäkuuta 2016

PictureCorrect.com: Interesting Photo of the Day: Refueling Combat Search & Rescue Helicopters

Check out this amazing rear view from an MC-130P, the picture was taken for the last refueling of the 21st Special Operations Squadron MH-53M Pave Low IV helicopters stationed at RAF Mildenhall, by the 67th Special Operations:

Click to See Larger Version Found on Imgur


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PictureCorrect.com: 6 Tips for Beautiful Candid Photography

Candid photography focuses on what the subject is naturally doing and not on what the subject must be doing. It is a photo similar to that of a stolen shot. Most images taken in candid photography are of people not looking directly at the camera. Read on for five helpful tips to successfully snap a candid photo:

candid street photography

“And the beat goes on…” captured by Sarah Horrigan

1. Always Carry Your Camera

Bringing cameras along with you as you go about your everyday routine will help you take better candid pictures. You must be alert to any situation and be very observant about what is happening in your immediate surroundings. Taking candid pictures is naturally easy, but you can’t take a second picture that looks like the first one, because every moment is unique. So when you see an opportunity to take candid shots, focus on that, and then click the shutter. Point and then shoot must be the initial reaction.

candid photo

“Behind You” captured by Tom

2. Avoid Complicated Lighting Techniques

Using complicated lighting techniques is not always advisable when taking candid photos. Always remember that having a perfect photo is not really necessary. What is important is for the photo to capture real-life, unscripted shots.

candid color photography

“Street Candid, Canterbury” captured by Chris Beckett

3. Blend In With the Environment

Taking candid pictures requires great discipline. This is because it requires the photographer to blend in with the environment. Candid photographers should not be too obvious if they want to produce the most unscripted shots of frozen moments. Take photos without holding the camera up to your eye as often as possible. For example, you could put the camera near your waist to take the shot. This will also help you to see the pictures from another angle.

4. Use a Long Lens

Using the camera’s fullest zoom will also help you get a good, candid photo. As long as you are not seen, the subject will act naturally. When you are a fair distance away from the subject, you can use the telephoto lens. Avoid taking pictures of people’s backs.

black and white candid photography

“Look Out!” captured by Magdalena Roeseler

5. Capture the Subject in Black & White

Converting the picture to black and white is another great idea, because it will help you capture the subject’s emotion. Taking pictures of people who are doing things or are in constant motion is the best situation for taking candid shots. Capturing the essence of a person’s task in black and white will emphasize the emotion on the subject’s face.

candid portrait

“Candid Street Portrait, Man from Peru” captured by Peter McConnochie

6. Ask for Permission

Never forget to ask permission when appropriate. Although for some shots it is okay not to, asking for permission is always a safe and appropriate decision. This will prevent conflict and intrusion of someone’s right to privacy.

candid moment

“It’s All About Love” captured by Candida.Performa

The best way of capturing a candid picture is to experiment often. Explore everything, try every angle, and don’t forget to look at other photographers’ work for inspiration.

About the Author:
This article was written by Patricia Strasser from Foto TV. It was founded in 2007 by Marc Ludwig and is headquartered in Cologne.


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PictureCorrect.com: Timelapse and Hyperlapse Techniques Put Abidjan in Motion

With timelapse and hyperlapse techniques, photographer/videographer Mayeul Akpovi created this amazing video using over 45,000 photos taken over a shoot spanning 15 days in the city of Abidjan (located on the Ivory Coast of Africa). After an additional 15 days of video editing, the aptly titled Abidjan in Motion was born:

From the busy freeways to the captivating nightlife, this three minute film provides viewers with a detailed digital view showcasing an entirely new prospective of this intriguing African metropolitan.

travel photograhy

For those unfamiliar with the approach, hyperlapse is a popular timelapse technique where you move the camera across large distances, rather than moving the camera with a slider or crane. The images are then viewed using a sequence at normal speeds to create a sense of movement and time lapsing.

Further Training on Timelapse Photography

In order to make a hyperlapse video, you should understand how to do fully produce a timelapse sequence. This in-depth ebook explains how to shoot, process, and render timelapses using a DSLR camera. Found here: The Timelapse Photography Guide


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PictureCorrect.com: The Benefits of Using Manual Mode with Auto ISO

Photographers—especially seasoned ones—tend to be control freaks. Many scoff at the idea of using anything other than manual mode for all of their photography. But do you really need absolute control over every aspect of exposure? In this video, Steve Perry explains why he prefers to use manual mode with auto ISO:

As explained in the video, manual mode with auto ISO allows you to choose and lock the shutter speed and aperture for freezing the motion, while the camera automatically sets ISO to compensate for the lighting scenario. Not every camera supports this feature, but if it works on your camera, it can be quite a game changer.

auto iso mode

“Think of it like aperture or shutter priority, only instead of the camera adjusting the shutter speed or f-stop for you, now it’s adjusting the ISO.”

Perry notes that there’s no special name for this feature. To put it into place on a Nikon camera, set your exposure mode to manual, then turn on auto ISO and set the minimum and maximum ISO. These settings are generally similar on other camera brands, but you’ll have to experiment to see how it works on your camera.

Most of the work that keeps me afloat is club and event photography, so I often struggle to keep up with the rapidly changing light conditions. I know that my shutter speed can’t go slower with the shutter speed than a certain point, and I always keep my aperture wide open in those scenarios, so I usually only manipulate the ISO. When I need to do that by hand, I often need more time to adjust the ISO than I would need to adjust the aperture and/or shutter speed, since I can’t use the wheel to adjust the ISO. There are many cameras that work on the same principle. Some even require going into the menu to adjust ISO.

However, auto ISO works in sync with the flash when it is set to E-TTL, and they both compensate for the loss of light. For my line of work, it would be awesome if my camera had this capability. I would be able to set the sweet spot of my camera capabilities and never bother about the ISO again. I’d always have enough ambient light, and flash would fill in the shadows and combine with the ambient light perfectly. Too bad I can’t do that with the range of ISO 100-400 that my particular camera uses in auto mode. That’s just way too low for my working conditions.

Perry discusses how this setting is also handy for wildlife and action photography. Auto ISO will always keep your shot exposed properly and you’ll have enough time to hunt for the perfect shot without worrying about your settings too much.

manual mode iso

This is not the same as using auto mode.

Mind you, manual mode with auto ISO is not the same as using the camera on auto mode. You’ll still need to know what you’re doing, and you’ll still need to pay attention to what’s going on. But I’d rather fiddle around with the focus and metering to get my shot, than spend time changing my ISO setting.

This feature opens a whole world of opportunities.


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tiistai 28. kesäkuuta 2016

PictureCorrect.com: Photography Contracts

Protecting yourself and your work as a photographer should be at the forefront of any photographer’s to-do list. Yet, many of us often overlook this facet of running a business. Contacting and working with a lawyer who specializes in business law can help you protect yourself from dishonest and disagreeable clients should a problem arise. Despite the genre of photography your work happens to fall in–perhaps you are a multi-faceted photographer–having a solid contract that is suited to your specific needs will take the guess work out of a job for both you and your client. Below, you can find an assortment of pre-made contracts which are available for use:

photography contracts

“husband and wife” captured by PictureSocial member Gagan Dhiman

  • Portrait Photography Contract – A plain language contract suitable for use when you will be taking portraits of clients either in the studio or at an event. Includes payment, copyright, and creative license terms.
  • Contract for the Sale of Fine Art Photography – Covers the sellers terms involved in the sale of a piece of fine art photography including but not limited to price, insurance, framing, and a section for an in-depth description of the piece to eliminate any confusion.
  • Gallery Contract for Sale of Photography – This contract is useful for the consignment of photography to a professional gallery and includes sections for sale and payment procedures as well as loss of risk terms.
  • Model Release – A necessary document if you’re working with models and talent. Protects the photographer from potential remuneration claims made by talent.
  • Minor Model Release – Essential model release for working with minors. To be signed by the minors parents or guardian.
  • Licensing Contract to Merchandise Images – Useful for when you wish to sell your images to clients for merchandising rights.
fashion photo

“Fashion” captured by PictureSocial member Naim Zion

While having contracts made specifically for your business by a licensed attorney is ultimately the safest route to protect yourself, the contracts from above are an excellent starting point. They can be altered to meet your needs and are available for use free of charge. Feel free to download and use the contracts as needed; however, these contracts may not be all inclusive for every type of situation. If at any point you feel they do not meet all your requirements, you may wish to have your own personalized contracts printed. The peace of mind a well written contract will give you is well worth the work.


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PictureCorrect.com: Photographing Fireworks Complete Bundle for Mac Users 75% Off Until July 4

With the 4th of July fireworks shows full of long exposure photography opportunities quickly approaching, Macphun has put together a bundle deal to help photographers. It contains a a 2-video set designed to teach you how to shoot the best fireworks photos of your life, 6 powerful photography apps, 11 one-click presets designed specifically for fireworks photography and more. Over $300 worth of savings (marked down to $99) but only until July 4 at midnight. Found here: The Shooting Fireworks Photography Deal

shooting fireworks photos

The Shooting Fireworks Photo Deal from MacPhun (Click to Learn More)

This summer, make sure you’re ready to capture all the action when the fireworks start launching into the sky. Some of the many items included are:

Creative Kit 2016 – 6 powerful photography apps

Over 500 creative tools inside a single, easy-to-use pack. Creative Kit elevates your photo editing experience and helps achieve fantastic results faster than ever before.

Creating Powerful Photos of Fireworks – Video Training

This 2-video set will teach you to shoot the best fireworks photos of your life. Over 40 minutes of in-depth training from PhotoFocus.

One-Click Presets for Fireworks by PhotoFocus

11 one-click presets for instant success on your own fireworks photos. Includes 8 presets for Intensify and 3 for Noiseless.

PhotoBulk app by Eltima Software – resize photos and add watermarks

Powerful and efficient, PhotoBulk lets you quickly watermark, resize, rename and even convert files into different formats. Work on one or hundreds of photos at a time.

Watch this sample informative video for valuable tips:

This video will walk you through gear choices, on location set-up, camera settings and of course shooting techniques.

How to Get the Discounted Bundle Today:

Over $300 worth of savings (marked down to $99) but only until July 4 at midnight.

Deal found here: The Shooting Fireworks Photography Deal


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