lauantai 31. lokakuuta 2020

PictureCorrect.com: Pro Photographer Shares Mistakes He Made Along the Way

In photography, we often see people making common mistakes. But what matters more than the mistake is the recovery. We should quickly identify such mistakes and try to correct them. Being able to do so is an important step to becoming a better photographer. In today’s video, we have photographer Brendan van Son who shares nine common mistakes that beginner and professional photographers often make:

One very important mistake that van Son points out is how beginners get stuck on the notion that their photos must be technically perfect. This means using the perfect aperture, ISO and shutter speed. And in a race to achieve perfection, they fail to learn how mistakes impact their photos. It is important to realize that you do not have to follow the rules every time. Go on, make some mistakes: mistakes can be good teachers. And learning from experience is the best kind of learning you can get.

“There’s no such thing as a technical mistake when you’re learning photography.”

Son further talks about behavioral mistakes such as not giving enough time on location, always expecting to shoot great-looking photos and being overly influenced by friends and families. He also sheds some light on how we make wrong gear-related decisions that could hamper or restrain our growth in photography, and much more.

Make sure that you watch the entire video. You’ll want to identify if you are making any of these mistakes and correct them early on. Otherwise, these very same mistakes can pile up and create bigger obstacles in your photography journey.

Have you been making any of these mistakes?


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perjantai 30. lokakuuta 2020

PictureCorrect.com: Slow Shutter Speed Photography

Shutter speed works two ways on your camera: it can be used to freeze motion so everything in the frame is nice and sharp; or it can be used to blur motion so some things in the frame are blurred, giving the picture a unique look. You may be shaking your head at this; but sometimes I want to actually slow down my shutter speed to create blur in my image, giving it somewhat of an artistic expression. These are images that probably don’t exist in the real world, as viewed through a pair of normal eyes; but with a slower shutter speed we can create beautiful, artistic expressions that otherwise might have never been seen.

how to take photos with slow shutter speed

Photo by June Marie; ISO 100, f/22.0, 6-second exposure.

Camera Settings for Blurring Motion

When taking slow shutter speed shots, I sometimes use shutter priority mode on my camera, which is the Tv (time value) setting on my Canon camera and the S setting on Nikon cameras. And now with my camera in shutter priority mode, I’m going to slow my shutter speed down to 1/15 of a second to start. Depending if you’re shooting in daylight or dark, you might have to tweak your f-stop a bit to get the desired effect. In lower light situations, you want to keep the ISO as low as possible—like around 100—because the camera is actually letting more light in with the slower shutter speed. For different effects, you might try using a zoom lens and zoom in and out while you take the shot.

slow shutter speed for beginning photographers

Photo by Sitoo; ISO 160, 1/20-second exposure.

What I like about slow shutter speed photography is getting the contrast between the things that are in motion and the things that are absolutely still in the same shot. This gives you some really neat images—like a river’s water flowing over the rocks.

photography with slow shutter speed method

Photo by Christophe Surman; ISO 640, f/5.0, 1/8-second exposure.

A slow shutter speed might give the water a harsh blur, but at the same time, the landscape around the river water will be in focus. You can make the moving water in a fountain look like glass by using a shutter speed of about 2 seconds or slower with a tripod attached to your camera. This will give your image a unique look of motion being blurred in the water and the fountain and scenery in sharp focus.

photography techniques slow shutter speed

Photo by axbecerra; ISO 200, f/22.0, 13-second exposure.

Preventing Camera Shake

When I use the slower shutter speeds I often set the timer on the camera or use my shutter release cable to eliminate any camera shake when pressing the shutter button. But using the shutter release cable, you may want to go to a manual focus to prevent the camera from refocusing and causing your image to be out of focus.

When it comes to night time shooting, I always make sure I have my tripod: this eliminates camera shake from slower shutter speeds, but it also helps achieve shots that include the blurring light motion of passing cars. You can really get some neat shots at a 4 second shutter speed.

use slow shutter speed like a pro

Photo by Chris Dart; ISO 100, f/8.0, 5-second exposure.

Getting More Creative

You’ll notice that when you’re in shutter priority mode, the camera calculates the approximate f-stop when you set you set the camera at a desired shutter speed. If you want to get more creative, you can take those settings and switch your camera to manual mode and put those setting in manually; that will give you a starting point. You can also get some cool shots at night without the tripod by using manual mode and shooting at just under a second while moving the camera around.

slow exposure camera trick

Photo by Andrew Stawarz; ISO 800, f/4.0, 30-second exposure.

Slow shutter speed photography is just another way to be creative with your camera while having a little fun with intentional blur. Keeping an open mind with photographic creativity is what separates photographic art from a plain snapshot.

About the Author:
This article was written by Alan Slagle from FrolickingPhotos. “I’ve been doing photography all my life and it’s a great way to get away from life in general. I believe digital photography has no rules so I do a lot of experimenting and that gives me a chance to write an article about my experiences.”


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PictureCorrect.com: Interesting Photo of the Day: Autumn in Tennessee’s Smoky Mountains

Autumn’s officially in full bloom, and in case you needed any proof, landscape photographers are out in force to capture the reds and oranges of North America’s forests. Case in point: this serene river shot out of Tennessee:

autumn flowing water

(Via Imgur. Click image to see full size.)

Reddit user IsaacMTSU took this image off Little River Road. It was quite shady, so he kept the shutter speed open for three seconds to compensate for his 100 ISO and wide aperture of f/16, also while shooting from the widest angle on his 18-105 Nikon lens and a Cokin P-series polarizer. It’s a good combo to combat the dark lighting conditions—the silky water and complete focus makes for an excellent example of autumn landscape photography.


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PictureCorrect.com: How to Add Style to Your Product Photography

With product photography, first impressions really do matter. In a world where we are bombarded with advertisements all the time, it’s become more important than ever for products to grasp the viewers’ attention in a snap. And what better way to do this than by adding some style to the product photos? For all the budding product photographers out there, today we have photographer Peter McKinnon who shares an amazingly simple yet effective trick to take your product photography to the next level:

Products may look good by themselves, but the real magic happens when you add some sort of styling to them. By giving a certain theme to the image, you can add relevance. This is what allows consumers to connect with the brand or the products.

McKinnon demonstrates how he added styling to his pocket knife image using Photoshop. But you can do the same by planning ahead and using props and styling materials that complement the product you’re shooting.

Next time you’re looking to photograph a product, don’t just think about the product and your lighting setup. Go a few steps ahead and think of how you can make the customers imagine using the product.


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torstai 29. lokakuuta 2020

PictureCorrect.com: The Top 5 Most Exasperating Photography Myths

Relevant reminder: only 1 day left for the Long Exposure Photo Guide at 71% Off

I know, as a photographer, that there are countless misconceptions that non-photographers (and in some cases, even photographers!) don’t quite seem to grasp. From the hundreds I could name, I have narrowed the list to five of the most exasperating misconceptions about photography:

1. Photography is easy

Nothing frustrates me more than when people claim photography is easy. Sure, it’s easy to take a picture; however, being a photographer is more than just taking a picture. It’s an art. It requires experience and skill to take a visually appealing picture. As a photographer, you must understand how lighting works, when to actually take the picture, and MANY more variables to take good photographs. It’s not as easy as what most people think (i.e., taking a ‘selfie’ and chucking a quick filter over it on Instagram).

selfie photography

“Taking a Selfie” captured by Susanne Nilsson

2. “Your camera takes great pictures!”

No, it does not. I take the great picture. My camera is merely a tool that allows me to execute my skills to my highest ability. This is another thing that irritates me. Sure, most of the time, the person delivering this statement means it in a positive way, but I can’t help but take it as more of an insult than anything. It’s essentially dismissing the years of experience, the amount of practice, and my overall skills in photography, and claiming that my camera is the mastermind behind my photographs. So please, if you’re one of those people who thinks the camera itself is the reason for professional photographs, bite your tongue.

Can I also just add that using a more expensive camera does not mean your photographs will be better? You can give an amateur a really expensive, high-standard camera, and it does not mean that their photographs will outperform a professional photographer with a low-budget camera. That said, if you know how to use a high-quality camera and all of its features exquisitely, then maybe this point is not applicable to you.

3. Nikon is better than Canon

Saying Nikon is better than Canon is like saying apples are better than oranges. It’s a completely misleading way of thinking in terms of photography, and (similarly to the previous point) you should refrain from speaking. Basically, Nikon and Canon are both excellent camera brands. However, one might be more suitable for one person, and the other might be more suitable for the other person. The camera choice is all relative to the camera owner. It depends on what exactly you want to do with the camera, and what you want to achieve. Maybe the person making certain claims simply had a negative experience with one of the brands, which is not to say you will have the same experience at all.

nikon and canon cameras

“Untitled” captured by 伊特諾 雷

Instead of taking someone’s word in regards to which camera is better, you should instead do something cool, and that’s called research. The strange thing about research is that you can develop your own perspective of which camera is better and maybe come up with your own conclusions. Research includes looking up reviews of the camera you find appealing and comparing the camera with other cameras you might also have an interest in. You should also take the camera’s price into consideration and see if that price justifies its features.

4. Age is a barrier to success

This is simply far from the truth. Just like music: there is no ‘expiry’ date to being a successful photographer. In fact, how old do you think I am? I could be 90 years old, or I could be 16 years old. I’ll tell you right now that I’m neither of those ages; however, I am somewhere in between.

photographers of all ages

“The Child and the Cameras” captured by Carine Felgueiras

Basically, this point is to disprove the misconception that age is a barrier to success. I know people of all ages, sexes, races, etc. who are extremely passionate about photography. All those things are simply unimportant to their success as photographers.

5. Black-and-white images are better and more professional

Finally, we have come to my favorite point of all: black-and-white photos. Now, don’t get me wrong; black-and-white photos can work really well, but the lack of color does not instantly make them professional. It depends on the photo itself and how the black and white has been executed. However, nothing irritates me more than when people throw on a black-and-white filter and call it photography. There is far more to photography than people understand. If you’re one of these people who think a black-and-white photograph is simply superior, and every other photograph is inferior, I want you to do something for me. Google “black and white photography,” click “Images,” and then compare the first result to your black-and-white image(s). This should probably prove my point that black and white does not necessarily make an image better.

black and white photography

“Rain Bubbles” captured by Chrissie

There you have it—some of the most “you-are-blatantly-misled” misconceptions that a photographer will hear throughout their career/hobby as a photographer. Let’s hope this article can make an impact toward obliterating these insulting misconceptions.

About the Author:
Cole is a writer/photographer who owns his own laboratory… I mean…website at considerphotography, which is chock-a-block full of information about photography.

For Further Training, Deal Ending Soon:

Photographer Dieter Appelt said, “A snapshot steals life that it cannot return. A long exposure creates a form that never existed.” If you’ve ever been mystified by other photographers’ tack sharp extended exposures and mind-blowing daytime long shutter speeds, then you may want to take a look at this popular in-depth eBook while it is marked down 71% off until the end of the month, October 31!

The Long Exposure Photography Guide (peek inside)

This guide was designed to walk you through every step of long exposure photography with a complete description and a visual reference. Each lesson is broken down into easy-to-follow steps, recommended resources, and self-check quizzes to make sure you understand each and every technique.

Only 1 day left: The Long Exposure Photography Guide at 71% Off


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PictureCorrect.com: Interesting Photo of the Day: Majestic Rock Eagle-Owl in Flight

Nature photographer Stefano Ronchi often photographs owls and other birds of prey, but this shot of a rock eagle-owl is perhaps one of the best examples from Ronchi’s portfolio of owls’ powerful wings and gorgeous feather patterns:

rock eagle owl horned owl flight bird raptor prey eagle-owl

Rock eagle-owl in flight (Via Imgur.)

Native to the Indian subcontinent, rock eagle-owls are also commonly referred to as Indian eagle-owls or Bengal eagle-owls. They’re part of the Bubo genus, which includes many types of horned and eagle-owls, including the very similar Great Horned Owl that is native to the Americas. Owls have no natural predators. They generally hunt small birds and mammals, but they have been known to bring down prey the size of turkeys and dogs.

The photograph was created with a Canon EOS 1D Mark II camera and a Canon 300mm f/4 telephoto lens set at ISO 500, f/4, and 1/2500.


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PictureCorrect.com: A Fall Foliage Photography Walkthrough (Video)

For nature and landscape photographers, the small window in which autumn leaves emerge is one of the most anticipated events of the entire year. Vibrant colors explode as leaves begin to drop, one by one, to the earth below. Like moths to a lamp, the pristine beauty draws cameras out to try to grab a slice of it.

Photographer Thomas Heaton is no exception, enthusiastically embarking on a road trip of his own through Scotland to admire the wonders of autumn. Take a look at some of the photographic strategies he utilized to capture the majesty of the Cairngorms National Park:

There’s no right or wrong way to tackle a subject as vast as acres of woodland. However, seeing how a professional overcomes obstacles and makes images of their own is a great way to guide our own endeavors.

For instance, there’s something fascinating in the way Heaton chooses which trees are worth photographing. Much of his decision making process is cool and calculated – a “good” tree is one that’s unobstructed, a certain distance away from distracting elements, a short enough height to capture its entirety. Yet, there’s also some intuition and emotion that goes into the matter. He seeks leaves that are a certain shade of yellow, trunks and branches that bend and sway in a way that’s aesthetically appealing.

With the emphasis put on specs and settings, it’s easy to overcomplicate and forget that the act of taking a picture is a form of art. But, as this excursion shows, something about being in the thick of nature can really bring us back to our creative roots.

The next time you’re out with your camera trying to capture autumn leaves of your own, try not to let yourself get too caught up in the technical details of your photographs. Pay a little more attention to the quality of light, or the way textures and colors merge together to create your surroundings. You’ll be pleased with what you find when you take the time to get in touch with your instincts!


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keskiviikko 28. lokakuuta 2020

PictureCorrect.com: Neutral Density Filter Tips for Long Exposures During the Day

Related reminder: only 2 days left for the Long Exposure Photo Guide at 71% Off

In this article, I will discuss an important topic in photography. Although this can be treated as an intermediate to advanced technique, I will try to keep it as simple as possible to make it seem like a piece of cake to all my readers.

ND stands for Neutral Density

ND filters are useful when you are looking for a specific type of effect under adverse lighting conditions. OK, OK. Let me break that down for you. What do you do when you go out on a sunny day and you know you are going to spend a lot of time outdoors? You get a cap and sunglasses. That’s right. You want to counteract the effect of direct sunlight so that you are not “blinded”. A camera works in a similar way. But not exactly the same way, as we are not “blinded” by continuously looking at a moderately lit scene. Let me explain more on camera terms with an example. Say you are taking a photo of a waterfall and you want to have that “creamy” and “silky” effect of the flowing water.

how to take long exposures with nd filter

Photo by Sarah Fraser63; ISO 50, f/22.0, 30-second exposure.

The enemy of a slow shutter speed is the ambient light. Just try this experiment: Put the camera on a tripod in P mode. Making sure the flash is off, point your camera toward any object, and press the shutter half-way. Record the shutter speed and aperture setting that are automatically selected by the camera. Now change the mode to M and select the same shutter and aperture. Take the photo with this setting–it should not come out that bad. Now the fun part. Slowly reduce the shutter speed one tenth of a second at a time and see how the photo looks. You will notice the photo is becoming brighter and brighter, and at some point everything is so bright that nothing can be seen clearly. Pros refer to this condition as a blown-out photo.

But say you NEED slow shutter speed to get that motion blur. Of course, you can reduce aperture. But how much? F/16, F/22, F/39? There will be a situation in broad daylight when you have the aperture set to the camera-supported minimum, and still you are not able to lower the shutter speed enough to get that motion-blur without blowing-out the photo. Yeah, yeah, now we are talking photography.

You wish somehow you could reduce the amount of light reaching the camera sensor so that the photo isn’t blow-out, yet you can comfortably reduce the shutter speed to achieve motion-blur AND all this at a decent aperture setting.

Ladies and gentlemen, welcome the ND filter.

The filter acts like sunglasses on your eyes, limiting the amount of light that reaches the camera sensor, eating up light so that you can take photos in broad daylight and still set the shutter speed as slow as one second (can you believe it? the flowing water will be as creamy as ever) at a reasonable aperture of F/22.

taking amazing photos with a neutral density filter

Photo by Neil Hall; ISO 100, f/8.0, .5-second exposure.

Standard settings I use for the silky/creamy water flow effect putting the ND filter on:

  • Mode: Shutter Priority (TV)
  • Shutter Speed: start with 1/10 secs and reduce it gradually till you get the desired amount of blurriness effect
  • Aperture: F/13-22
  • ISO: 100 or lower
  • White Balance: AWB or Cloudy
  • Metering Mode: Evaluative (if I have bright area in the scene, I do a partial metering)

Consider another situation, where you want to focus only on the subject, keeping the background out of focus. You widen the aperture to the smallest value your camera/lens supports (say F/2.8) and guess what, the photo becomes blown-out. You try to increase the shutter speed, but alas, even the maximum supported shutter speed is producing a blown-out photo. You guessed it right: the ND filter is again our rescue crew. Put on a ND filter and you can keep the minimum F-stop with a reasonable shutter speed and still get the subject in focus with rest of the scene out of focus (I am deliberately avoiding the concept of depth of dield to keep this article simpler.

Of course, you can try lowering the ISO to 50 or lower, but the effect of reduction of light, by lowering ISO sensitivity is negligible compared to ND filters. What I mean is lowering ISO is no match against the ND filter in reducing the impact of “amount of light” on brightness of the photo.

Types of ND filters

There are different types of ND filters available and they are classified based on the amount of light they block (or the darker/denser the glass is).

The greater the optical density, the more light it will absorb. So a ND filter is sometimes classified in terms of density

0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0, and so on.

The light blocking capacity of the ND filters is also measured by the reduction of f-stops. The more f-stops an ND filter will reduce, the less light it will allow to pass. Thus a 2-stop ND filter blocks double the amount of light of a 1-stop ND filter.

So this is one way of specifying the “darkness” of the filter. There’s another. Different manufacturers use different conventions. ND4 filter means a 2 stop ND filter. Huh? A little bit of math here…

best tips for nd filter use in photography

Photo by Neil Howard.

ND2 means 1 stop ND filter (2=2 to the power 1) allowing 50% of light to pass (transmittance). ND4 means 2 stop ND filter (4=2 to the power 2) allowing 25% of light to pass. ND8 means 3 stop ND filter (8=2 to the power 3) allowing 12.5% of light to pass and so on…

If you are a little bit lost, do not worry; all you need to understand is that “darker” ND filters block more light. ND8 is darker, ND2 is less dark. A 0.9 ND Filter is darker and a 0.3 ND filter is less dark. A 3 stop ND filter is darker and a 1 stop ND filter is less dark, and so on and so forth. That should work for now.

Which filter should I use and when?

The ND filter you need depends on how much light you want it to absorb so that you can achieve the desired shutter speed or the desired aperture size at the ambient lighting conditions. (Remember the first statement in this article?) This depends on how much ambient light you are working in. So, overall, this is more or less experimental. The rule of thumb is that if you want a lot of motion blur or absolute silkiness, use the darkest ND filter (ND8) so that you can really slow down the shutter. If it’s dark (overcast, dawn or dusk), you may not need the darkest ND filter, because there is already less light. So you may try a medium dark filter (ND4) to achieve the same effect. For sports, to bring that motion blur, you may need just a slightly dark filter (ND2) if don’t want too much blur.

Do I really need ND filters?

You will most likely need ND filters (of various strengths) if you shoot landscapes a lot (like me, which you can see in my photoblog–75% of my best collections are landscapes). Or if you shoot sports a lot in bright daylight. But, as I said, you will KNOW you need a ND filter when you have reached your camera/lens limit of blocking light and do not have any further options.

why neutral density filters make photos better

Photo by mariusz kluzniak; ISO 100, f19.0, 30-second exposure.

BONUS TIP: You can always “stack” up one filter on the other to increase the darkness even more. But beware of vignetting on wide angle shots (18-20mm) with stacked up filters, along with other “combination” effects.

How many ND filters do I need to buy?

Well… in my opinion, you should get ahold of a 0.9 ND filter first, and then if you need to, go for a 0.6 ND filter. Then you can stack them up to get an even darker filter. I have rarely used my 0.3 ND filter.

When NOT to use an ND filter

A word (or sentence) of caution: Most ND filters are effective only on the visible spectrum of light and do not proportionally reduce ultra-violet or infrared radiation.

This can be specially dangerous if you are using ND filters to view sources like the sun or white/red hot metal or glass which emit intense non-visible radiation that is not blocked by ND filters. This  can seriously damage your eyes, as the source does look dim when viewed through the filter. Do NOT look directly at sun through the viewfinder even with an ND filter. You eyes are precious, especially if you enjoy photography!

simple tips and tricks for neutral density long exposure photos

Photo by Steve Corey; ISO 100, f/20.0, 1/6-second exposure.

Another situation to avoid using an ND filter is when the scene has a mixture of areas with higher and lower brightness (i.e., not uniformly lit). For example, during a sunset the horizon is bright but the ground is dark. Using an ND filter will make the darker spots more dark, thus losing the appropriate detail (this is opposite to being blown-out and is called burn-out).

What are the available varieties?

There are different flavors of ND filters available on the market. To start with, I would always suggest to go for multi-coated filters, as they are better quality than normal glass–and worth the price. The normal glass filters are cheaper and have a lot of side effects (color-casts) associated with them. Of course, there are pro filters that cost a lot, but then they are durable, scratch-resistant, and high quality.

Options include different brands like Hoya, Singh Ray, B+W, Tiffen, and Lee filters. These are GREAT filters with no color casts, but the cost varies with make and model. I own Hoya filter sets, and I am quite happy with the quality of the light reduction at a reasonable price. Singh Ray filters are relatively costly but with high optical precision. For experimental learners, I would recommend getting your hands on Hoya filters.

Why are these sunglasses for cameras called “Neutral”?

Good question. Because these sunglasses (should) “eat up” light of all wavelengths equally. This means during absorbing, no color is given preference over the other. Thus the term “neutral”. But not all ND filters on the market are made perfectly. Especially the cheap ones that create color casts on photos, as they cannot reduce intensity of all wavelengths equally. I recommended getting standard, branded, and quality ND filters (the multi-coated ones). Research on the Internet; read reviews and forums to find out the best ND filter to suit your needs and your wallet.

About the Author:
Sudipta Shaw is a software professional and a self-made photographer. He also likes to teach and mentor.

For Further Training on Long Exposure Photography:

Photographer Dieter Appelt said, “A snapshot steals life that it cannot return. A long exposure creates a form that never existed.” If you’ve ever been mystified by other photographers’ tack sharp extended exposures and mind-blowing daytime long shutter speeds, then you may want to take a look at this popular in-depth eBook while it is marked down 71% off until the end of the month!

The Long Exposure Photography Guide (peek inside)

This guide was designed to walk you through every step of long exposure photography with a complete description and a visual reference. Each lesson is broken down into easy-to-follow steps, recommended resources, and self-check quizzes to make sure you understand each and every technique.

Deal ending soon: The Long Exposure Photography Guide at 71% Off


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